At Ulcinj, the southernmost coastal town in Montenegro, you’ll find sandy beaches and a protected wetland site for birdwatching. In addition to being a good spot to enjoy the outdoors, Ulcinj also has a fortress that, albeit not as big and well maintained compared to the other old towns along the coast, is quite charming and a great viewpoint to catch the sunset while having a good meal.
This small city has a unique culture compared to the rest of country since people identify themselves as Albanians. You’ll see signs in both languages and a strong influence from the Ottoman era.
We spent five days in Ulcinj and, although we had a good time, there are some things you need to know before you go to decide if it’s the place for you. In this post I list the good and the not so good for you to know what to expect and how to experience the best of this town.
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Table of Contents
Things to Do in Ulcinj, Montenegro
Visit Ulcinj Old Town
The Old Town of Ulcinj (Stari Grad) is a historic site of such significance that it’s on the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List.
The successive occupation of Ulcinj by different civilizations is very similar to the one that happened at the Old Town of Bar, although Ulcinj has some unique aspects including its location right by the sea.
Like Ulcinj today is the southernmost town in Montenegro, the Ulcinj fortress was the southernmost bastion of the Venetian Republic from the 15th century until the late 16th century, playing a commercial and a military role.
But history in this place goes way back, as the archaeological findings revealed that the first settlement occurred between the 4th and 5th century B.C.
It wasn’t until the first two centuries of this era when Illyrians and Greeks felt the need to protect their turf by building stone walls that you can still see today when you enter the museum section.
By the middle ages (from the 11th to the 13th centuries), the walls kept going up and guards would comb the horizon looking for possible intruders.
When the Venetians arrived they reinforced the walls, put up gates, built the famous Tower of Balsici (named after the family that ruled during this period and a space now used for art exhibits), built the Citadel in the upper section (part of the museum) and residential palaces in Late Gothic and Renaissance style in the lower section.
Then it was the Turk’s turn to run the show until the late 19th century. Later, in 1979, an earthquake caused severe damage and most of the Ulcinj castle had to be rebuilt, but it also made possible the unearthing of many artifacts.
Most of the old buildings are occupied and have been repurposed.
The church, which became a mosque during the Ottoman Empire ruling, is now an archaeological museum and the square right in front, which used to house a slave market in the 17th and 18th centuries, is now a space used for events.
Other former residences are now hotels and there are also some good restaurants with the added bonus of the great views.
In the past, there were fountains all over the Old Town as some type of water cult was going on. Check out this one, a reconstruction from the 17th century with inscriptions in Arabic under the arch and floral motifs in the upper corners.
From Ulcinj Old Town you’ll have great views of the city and the sunset.
The Museum of Local History (Archaeological Museum)
This building in the Old Town was a church in the 16th century, then a mosque, and today it’s a small museum displaying artifacts recovered from the site. You’ll find architectural ornaments from different periods and styles and objects such as Roman funerary urns, incense burners, and pottery.
Don’t expect a super-duper exhibit. The objects could be in a better arrangement, there could be boards with contextual information, and some parts are just a hodgepodge.
But if you can look past the mess, for the small fee you’ll see some interesting stuff. We rented the audio guide for €2, which I highly recommend so you can have an idea of what you’re looking at.
Entrance fee: €2.5p/p (currently reduced due to ongoing renovations).
See the Frescoes at St. Nikola Church
St. Nikola Church is a pretty Orthodox church built in 1890, located a few minutes away on foot from the Old Town. It was built on top of a monastery from the 15th century.
Even though it’s small, it’s worth visiting to see the colourful frescoes covering its walls and ceiling.
I also loved the peaceful olive grove surrounding the church, with ancient trees, and the mosaics adorning sections of the exterior walls.
It has a gift shop with artisan products, including olives and olive oil from the garden, rakija (a brandy liqueur), and more.
Go to Small Beach (Mala Plaža)
Small Beach is located right smack in the city’s waterfront, in front of a line up of hotels, bars and restaurants. There’s a seaside promenade along the beach, which is nice for walking, especially at sunset and at night.
The good things about this beach are its easy access thanks to the convenient location, there’s sand instead of rocks, it has a gentle slope, and you have a wonderful view of the fortress. There are also chairs and umbrellas for rent, but there’s also an area where you can lay down a towel.
The bad: small + easy access = crazy crowded. Unless you get up early in the morning like I did to take the picture above. It’s also dirty, with a lot of cigarette butts everywhere. It’s sad that people litter so much and it’s equally sad that the city doesn’t clean up.
This situation is the worst during July and August. If you can’t visit outside these months your best bet is to go early in the morning when the beach is cleaner and emptier.
Go to Ladies Beach
Only women allowed.
An attendant at the gate controls access to the beach, located at the bottom of the hill and secluded in a cove. If you want to sunbathe (with or without clothes) away from male attention, you can do it here.
There are sulfur springs that are said to have healing properties, if you can stand the smell. Loungers and umbrellas for rent occupy most of the rocky beach. There’s also a restaurant on site.
This beach is within walking distance of the city centre.
Take the Ulcinj Walk Trail from the City to Long Beach
This coastal path along a pine tree forest offers beautiful views of the rocky shore and the Adriatic sea. It was one of my favourite things to do in Ulcinj.
From the south end of Small Beach walk up to a road named Steva Đakonovića Čiče. Enjoy the panoramic view of Small Beach and the fortress and keep on going until you pass the Pino Hotel. Before you reach Hotel Albatros (and the end of the road), you’ll see a dirt path to your right, which is the access point to the trail. You’ll enjoy views like this:
Along the way you’ll find a few swimming spots (they can’t be called beaches) where you can rent loungers placed on huge rocks from where you jump in the water and you can do snorkeling.
There’s shade on most of the path except for the last section when you’re reaching the pointy end from where you see Long Beach (Velika plaža). From there, you’ll walk a few minutes to cross the bridge that will take you to the beach.
This is an easy walk, about one hour long.
If you don’t want to walk on the way back there are water taxis that will drop you at the marina located at the foot of the fortress.
Note: as you walk along Steva Đakonovića Čiče you’ll see several beach clubs that consist of restaurants with loungers on multilevel terraces and a platform from where you jump on the water. It’s a more expensive alternative to the public beaches, but it’s an option if you want smaller crowds and you’re not a fan of the sand. It’s also cleaner. It may not work for you if you’re looking for a quiet spot as music can get really loud.
Go to Long Beach (Velika Plaža)
A truly long, sandy beach with many mini beaches that have different names. Some names have a tropical vibe, like Miami Beach, Havana Beach, Mojito Beach, Tropicana Beach, etc., with bars, restaurants, and loungers for rent.
The sand is fine and dark (it gets hot) and the beach is wide so, compared to others, is less crowded and it has more free space where you can lay a towel if you don’t want to rent a sunbed.
If you come with kids you’ll appreciate that entry is easy and that it’s shallow.
It has the same issue affecting Small Beach, though: tons of cigarette butts everywhere and some garbage. But it’s still an improvement from Small Beach.
Taking advantage of how windy it’s here there’s a kite surfing school if you want to give this a try. The fine sand can be a pain in the neck with the constant wind so hold on to your sunglasses.
From Ulcinj’s waterfront you can walk to Long Beach if you take the scenic trail I mentioned in this post. Or you can drive there (more on that later), take a taxi, or a water taxi from the city.
Bare it All at Ada Bojana Beach
Or not. This is a nude beach close to the border with Albania, but there is a section where clothed people are allowed. There’s also a nudist hotel and campsite.
You can either drive here, take a taxi, or a water taxi. The entrance fee to this sandy and shallow beach located south of Long Beach is €7.
Walk to Valdanos Beach
The road from Ulcinj to Valdanos Beach is named the “Valdanos Olive Trail”, but I wouldn’t call it a trail as it’s really a walk along a paved road flanked by olive trees.
We love to walk so we searched for directions on Google Maps and about 30 minutes after leaving the city’s waterfront we started seeing the olive groves.
You’ll see hundreds and hundreds of trees. What is even more special is that many of these trees are more than one thousand years old, you’re surrounded by an ancient forest. As you can imagine, olive oil production (and other related products) is a big industry here. Along the road you’ll find stands selling olives and bottles of delicious oil.
You’ll see the downhill road leading to Valdanos Beach in about one hour (enjoy the views!). From there we reached the bay in 20 minutes or so.
I have mixed feelings about Valdanos Beach. On one hand, the bay is stunning, embraced by the mountain and with turquoise waters that wash on the rocky shore. The scenery is a world away from Small Beach.
Even though there’s a restaurant on site with loungers, this is more like a rugged beach, with seaweed on the shore and rocks (not pebbles) instead of sand. Your feet will appreciate water shoes.
On the other hand, when you look closely, the rubble of what used to be a resort in the former Yugoslavia spoils the landscape, with litter and plastic (especially during the busy season) adding insult to injury.
This beautiful site is in need of urgent care.
Anyway, I see it as an alternative to the overcrowded (but sandy) Small Beach and a different vibe to Long Beach. You can still enjoy a drink at the bar or walk along the rocky bay shore to see the scenic coastline. At least you won’t see the garbage from the distance.
If you’re going to walk all the way here instead of taking a taxi it’s better to do it in the morning as there’s barely any shade on the way down to the beach.
Enjoy Bird Watching at the Ulcinj Salina (Ulcinjska Solana)
If you’re into birding, the Ulcinj Salina should be on your list (first read the recommendations below).
About 250 bird species have been recorded here, including the Dalmatian pelican, Eurasian spoonbill, Greater flamingo, European bee-eater, herons, owls, and species that have been listed as threatened.
The roughly 14-square-kilometre property (5.5 sq. miles) is divided into salt pans used for salt production more than a decade ago.
The company in charge went belly up and the site was on the brink of being repurposed into a resort, raising a 100-decibel alarm across Europe. The reason being that tons of birds use this site for nesting and as a resting spot during migration. It’s also home to amphibians and mammals.
Montenegro turned it into a natural park and, at an international level, it was declared a Ramsar site, a Wetland of International Importance. It’s a huge first step towards the conservancy of the area, but more work needs to be done for its preservation.
Visit during spring and fall for a greater chance to see thousands of migratory birds (and a way less crowded and enjoyable Ulcinj).
Important things you need to know about this site:
-Be prepared for a long-distance walk of several kilometres with no shade (bring water, snacks, a hat, and comfortable shoes). Cars are not allowed and there are no bicycles for rent on site. However, you can bring them with you (your hotel may help you with finding rentals).
-It’s better to arrive early in the morning (it opens at 7AM).
-Bring binoculars.
-There’s a map at the entrance, but after that there are no directions or additional information.
-The entrance fee is €2.5, only payable in cash.
-You’ll see many birds (more, or less depending on what season and time you visit) and the landscape is gorgeous, but unfortunately you’ll also see garbage. This natural park is in dire need of maintenance. At the entrance you’ll see the rubble of what’s left of the abandoned facilities built in 1930. A good chance for some abandoned photography.
-The only access to the site is through Solanski put (Solanski Road).
-There are no facilities whatsoever (bathrooms, shops, etc.).
-The guard at the entrance may ask for a photo ID.
For more great birdwatching you can visit Lake Skadar National Park, a Ramsar Site located near Ulcinj, where you can rent kayaks or take a bird watching boat tour.
Where to Stay in Ulcinj
The city centre’s waterfront is the most popular area to stay in Ulcinj as it’s where you’ll find most attractions, as well as bars and restaurants.
If you want to stay in the proximity of Small Beach (what we did), be aware that you may have to put up with loud music everyday until 1AM. You either join the party and adjust your bedtime (what we did), or you avoid the beachfront strip. Here are some options for both scenarios:
Hotel Kulla e Balshajve: this 3-star hotel is a great choice to stay in a historic building inside the Ulcinj fortress. You’re in the centre, close to the beach, but away from the crowds and somewhat shielded from the loud music. With a combination of rooms and apartments (some with a kitchenette), all units have sea views, AC, flats screen TV, and a mini bar. You can request help to carry your luggage up to the Old Town’s cobblestone streets (no vehicles allowed inside). Paid parking available outside the fortress.
Stay at Kulla e Balshajve, with a rating of 9.2/10 based on more than 115 reviews.
Villa Oleander: these apartments are good for a quieter stay, as they’re located uphill, 11 minutes on foot from the city’s waterfront. Units come with AC and a flat screen TV. Some units have a kitchenette. You have access to a rooftop terrace with sea views where you can order a tasty breakfast (not included). Free parking available.
Check rates and availability at Villa Oleander, with a rating of 9.5/10 based on more than 210 reviews.
How to Get to Ulcinj
The closest airport to Ulcinj is the Podgorica airport (TGD), located 69 kilometres (43 miles) from the city. Most accommodations offer paid airport transfers.
By Bus
You can get to Ulcinj by bus from the most popular destinations in Montenegro.
From Budva: between 1.25 to 2 hours,depending on departure time.
From Kotor: around 2.25 hours.
From Bar: around 30 minutes.
Ulcinj’s bus station is 2.2 kilometres (1.3 miles) from the city’s waterfront. It’s a downhill road, if you’re visiting for the day with no luggage it’s an easy 30-minute walk.
Otherwise there are taxis right outside the station that normally overcharge you for a short ride to the waterfront. We found out on the day we left, when the taxi that dropped us off at the bus station charged us half of what we paid from the station to the hotel.
Getting Around Ulcinj
If you like to walk as much as I do, you can do all the things I list here on foot, except going to Ada Bojana. We didn’t go there so we didn’t need a car.
If you drive here or rent a car, be aware that street parking is nearly impossible to find and you’ll need to add parking fees to your budget (whenever garages aren’t full). If you come by car you’ll save yourself a headache by booking an accommodation with free parking.
When taking a taxi, show the driver your destination on Google Maps when asking for the price as they’re famous for raising the fee on the fly because “the location wasn’t clear”.
Where to Eat in Ulcinj
Restaurant Fisherman Hari: we had an amazing dinner at this restaurant, located in the Old Town. Actually, one of the best meals we had in Montenegro, with the added bonus of a breathtaking view of the sunset.
We had fish with sides served on a beautiful big tray. Everything was fresh and delicious.
La Tavola: we loved the pizza and the seafood pasta at this Italian restaurant, located on Rr. Hafiz Uli Ulqinaku, Ulcinj’s main street.
Best Time to Visit Ulcinj
If you visit Ulcinj in May and June you’ll avoid the insane crowds that swarm the beaches during July and August, enjoy milder temperatures, and see thousands of birds in the salinas as it falls in the migration period.
September and October are also good for the same reasons.
Is Ulcing Worth Visiting?
Yes. Although Ulcinj looks a little bit rough around the edges compared to Kotor or Budva, the town has enough interesting things to do to make it worth a 3-day trip, if you have time. If not, come here for an overnight trip or for a day trip (feasible if you’re staying in Bar or Budva) to check out its little gems and venture out of the beaten path.
I wouldn’t book a one or two-week stay in Ulcinj, though. There’s no doubt that there’s a garbage problem, that debris needs to be cleared, and that proper beach maintenance is lacking.
But if you look at the big picture, you can still enjoy the beautiful side of Ulcinj on a short trip.
Spend a few days in Ulcinj and travel back in time walking through the Old Town and ancient olive groves. Enjoy fabulous views of the coast with unforgettable sunsets and don’t miss the chance to visit the most important bird nesting site in the Adriatic.
Looking for another less visited coastal town in Montenegro? Check out the small city of Bar, a short bus trip from Ulcinj.
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