Cholula, a “Magic Town” in the state of Puebla whose name reminds you of the sauce -mainly used outside of Mexico- to spice up food, has a rich culture and a couple of spots in the “oldest in the world…largest in the world…you can’t find this anywhere else in the world…” lists.
Cholula –meaning “place of those who fled”- goes way back, according to archaeological excavations that trace the first settlements to the 5th century B.C., when green pastures surrounded a long-time gone big lagoon.
Cholula is the oldest continually inhabited city in North America.
It flourished during the first millennia, when it established a commercial relationship with the great Teotihuacan, an important ancient city northeast of what is today Mexico City that exerted a strong influence on the arts and crafts and architectural style of cities near and far in Mesoamerica.
Cholula had a privileged location that connected the city with other culturally rich regions. It established a trade route that boosted its economy and became a major religious centre.
When Hernán Cortés -the infamous Spanish colonizer- arrived in Cholula he wrote that, with its tall and white towers and its plains, it was the most beautiful city outside of Spain.
Despite destroying all those beautiful towers he wrote about to reshape the city and establish his dominance, some signs of the past remain and some new marvels were built.
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These are the best things to do in Cholula, Puebla
Table of Contents
Visit the Cholula Archeological Site Museum (Museo de Sitio)
While a bunch of people were digging Cholula’s archeological site to uncover the big pyramid under the hill, some others worked on the site museum (Museo de Sitio), opening in 1945. Here you’ll learn about the culture and history of Cholula, the excavations, the pyramid and you’ll see a display of artifacts found in the area.
I recommend that you make this your first stop before visiting the pyramid for a better understanding of the significance of the site.
You’ll see anthropomorphic figurines from the Pre-classic period (1500-0 B.C.) and the rather simple Teotihuacan-style pieces from the Classic period (0-800 A.D.).
A major shift occurs in the after 800 A.D. that boosts Cholula’s reputation as a cultural centre. A new population arrives and muses whisper into the artisans’ ears louder than ever, kickstarting a revival and the production of beautifully decorated polychromatic ceramics made with the high-quality clay of the region.
Some pieces carried offerings to the Mexica altars, witnessed human sacrifices, and were buried under the temples next to the unfortunate chaps.
After the arrival of the Spaniards the technique and motifs used in pottery changed again, reflecting the syncretism of the two cultures.
Check out the pyramid model, the Codex of Cholula, and the reproduction of the murals found inside buried buildings. My favourite is the Mural of the Grasshoppers, where the insects’ depiction morphs into cheerful yellow and red skull-like figures.
Open Tue. to Sat.: 10AM-5PM; General admission: MXN$90
Explore The Great Pyramid of Cholula and Archeological Zone
What is so special about the Great Pyramid of Cholula? Measuring around 400 metres (1,312 ft.) on each side and with a height of 66 metres (216 ft.), it’s the largest pyramid in the world by volume (4.5 million cubic metres).
How did it get so big? Cholultecos built new pyramids on top of existing ones, burying old buildings and expanding the base with every new layer.
The model at the site museum gives you a clear picture of the inside and there is valuable information that provides some context. I recommend you to start your visit there.
Some buildings were temples where they performed sacred ceremonies honouring Quetzatcoatl, attracting pilgrims from all over Mesoamerica.
Some archeologists say that the first stone was laid in the first century A.D. and the last layer was finished around the eighth century (some say as late as the 12th century). In between, different civilizations settled in this prosperous land over the years.
Is Cholula Mayan or Aztec?
Since Cholula was an important centre in the trade route there were artifacts from the Mayan region, but the Mayans didn’t move here. Towards the end of the pre-Hispanic era there was an alliance with the Mexicas [pronounced meh-SHEE-kas], also known as the Aztecs, and who brought their own architectural style, rites, and pottery style.
Before the Aztecs, the Olmeca-Xicalanca and the Tolteca-Chichimeca also lived here. After abandoning the pyramid they directed their construction efforts towards building temples around it.
By the time Hernán Cortés led the Spanish army and the Tlaxcaltecas warriors -who hated the Mexicas- to Cholula in 1519, wiping out 6000 souls several days later in an ambush known as the Cholula Massacre, the pyramid already looked similar to what you see today: a hill. And for some time everybody thought it was a hill and nothing more until the Franciscan friars discovered that it was a place of worship for the indigenous people and decided to build a church on top. But they still didn’t have the slight idea of the magnitude of what lied underneath.
Can you visit the pyramid of Cholula?
Yes. In 1930 the archaeologists, determined to explore the world hidden underneath, decided to build some tunnels and today, you can walk through a small section of the approximately eight kilometres of tunnels and see the inside of the structure made with adobe blocks and limestone.
Note: right now the tunnels are closed due to lingering restrictions from the pandemic, but they’re supposed to reopen soon this year (“soon” in Mexico it’s like the “soon come” in the Caribbean, it may be months so don’t hold your breath). You can still walk around the archeological site and visit the museum. If you’re claustrophobic, entering the tunnels may not be a good experience as it’s a long path (918 feet), narrow, low-height, dimly lit, and there are no shortcuts to get out.
After emerging from the tunnels feeling like Indiana Jones we entered the open courtyard in the archeological zone, which used to be a fertile land for agriculture.
This is your chance to see partially uncovered buildings where the stairs and sloped walls (called talud) seem to crawl out of what looks like mounds.
Other buildings combine sloped and straight walls (talud-tablero), an evidence of the reach of the Teotihuacan influence (with a Cholula twist). You can also see buildings covering structures underneath like a sloped layered cake, as in Buildings No. 3 and No. 6.
At the Courtyard of the Altars you can spot three altars, two of them found with stelas sitting on top of offerings and placed in front of temples. The inverted “T”s on the slopes are typical of Cholula during the late period.
This open space became smaller as surrounding buildings became bigger. If we could go inside those buildings we could see some massive murals. For now, we can only see the reproductions at the museum.
There’s a special altar from 800 A.D. that reveals the Mexica presence before the arrival of the Spaniards, with offerings including the remains of eight people, some of whom were children found in pots. Creepy.
Even creepier is another altar built after the pyramid was abandoned, where they found skulls of children. They think this is a sign that the kids were sacrificed under the belief that in their afterlife they would go straight to Tlaloc, the god of rain, and ask Can you kindly please send some rain to the folks down there? Nevermind that they just killed me to send me here to ask…
Building No.7 is the only one that is nearly fully restored, and the only one you can climb. It was built on top of another building in 450 A.D., with decorative details that include insects.
Bring sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat. Once you leave the tunnel there’s no shade whatsoever.
Calle 14 Poniente and Calle 8 Norte, San Andrés Cholula; Open Tue. to Sat.: 10AM-5:30PM; General admission: MXN$ 85
Although Cholula can be visited on a day trip from the city of Puebla, if you want to do all these activities at a leisurely pace you’ll need two day trips or to stay overnight. If you choose the latter these highly-rated hotels in Cholula are within two to six blocks from the pyramid, close to the main square, and on my preferred side of town:
Estrella de Belem B&B: a former 19th century mansion transformed into a hotel serving breakfast on a patio, with a rooftop terrace featuring a pool. Rooms have AC and underfloor heating.
Quinta Luna: this adults-only hotel is located in a former Colonial-style hacienda with gardens, a spa, and serves an American-style breakfast.
Santa Josefita B&B: beautiful murals decorated this artsy bed and breakfast that serves a continental breakfast. All rooms have a desk and flat-screen T.V.. Some rooms have a balcony and some have garden views.
Climb to the Church of Our Lady of Our Remedies
The Church of Our Lady of Our Remedies is hard to miss: its walls are painted in vivid yellow, supporting a dome covered with yellow, white, and green mosaics, and it sits at the top of a hill that is not a hill but an overgrown layered pyramid.
When they arrived in 1519 the Spaniards had no idea what was under the “hill”. To send a message loud and clear that there was a new religion in town they planted a big cross at the top that was struck by lightning in 1536. They planted two more with the same result.
When friar Motolinia climbed to the top to see what was going on he dug out seashells and figurines of pre-Hispanic gods. Oh no, this is a teocalli!! (an ancient Aztec temple). Everybody clutched their pearls and took it as a sign that they had to build a church up there, on the “hill”.
Construction started at the end of the 16th century and was completed in 1666, using the bricks they found on site. But it had to be rebuilt after the earthquake of 1864 so the building you see is from the 19th century.
Most of the decoration, in neoclassical style, was applied to the central façade between the two towers, with floral motifs and Corinthian columns all over, and mini pediments around the dome. The interior is more impressive (sorry, no photos as no pictures are allowed inside).
Thanks to its elevated position (be prepared for a workout), a visit to the Church of Our Lady of the Remedies also offers an unbeatable view of Cholula and the Popocatepetl volcano (“El Popo”). The site is open from 7AM to 7PM.
For an outdoor activity where you can see this volcano much closer, book a hiking tour to the Izta Popo National Park departing from Puebla City.
Bonus tip: hungry after visiting the pyramid and the museum and looking for a vegan option? Only three blocks away from the museum you’ll find La Colmena, offering delicious plant-based food made from scratch. They’re on Calle 14 Oriente, 206
Visit the Regional Museum of Cholula (Museo Regional de Cholula)
This is one of my favourite things to do in Cholula, only a stone-throw away from the Great Pyramid. It’s the best place to learn about the history and culture of Cholula, of the state of Puebla, and of other ancient cultures that established commercial relationships with the city thanks to its strategic location in the trade route:
- The Huaxtecs in the state of San Luis Potosí
- The Mixtecs and Zapotecs in Monte Alban in the state of Oaxaca
- Teotihuacan and the Mexicas (Aztecs) in the state of Mexico,
- The Mayans, who inhabited what are today the states of Quintana Roo and Yucatán, and in Central America the countries of what are today Guatemala, and Belize.
- And the cultures from the Gulf of Mexico and the west coast.
It’s a great opportunity to see a sample of art from nearly all over Mexico in one place.
Hall No. 3 displays paintings and sculptures from the vice regal period, from the 16th to the 19th century, when Spaniards taught local artists new painting styles that would adorn the interior of churches and palaces.
And of course there’s also a hall dedicated to the star of Cholula: the Great Pyramid.
However, the star has a younger competitor shining in the Arts and Crafts of the State of Puebla Hall: the talavera.
Cholula is a production centre of talavera: the high-quality shiny handmade pottery that was declared Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO. Every authentic piece bears a certified designation of origin ensuring that it was produced in the state of Puebla, following the traditional techniques.
You can also see textiles, traditional garments, blown glass, alebrijes, and other folk art pieces.
The museum, with signs in English and Spanish, incorporates videos and touch screens in its exhibits and it’s located inside a building from 1910 that used to be a psychiatric hospital.
Calle 14 Poniente 307 Colonia San Juan Aquiahuac, San Andrés Cholula; Tue.to Thu: 10AM-5PM; Sat. & Sun:10AM-6PM; General admission: MXN$45 (Free on Sundays).
Bonus tip: if you want a piece of real, high-quality talavera make sure you go to a certified factory. In Cholula you can visit Talavera de la Reyna (you can tour the workshop and visit the museum for a fee) and Talavera Santa Catarina.
See Two Cultures Represented at the Church of Santa Maria Tonantzintla
This church (and the next one) are a little bit far from Cholula’s centre, but taking the local bus or a 15-minute taxi/Uber ride to see them is 100% worth it.
When I saw the Church of Santa Maria Tonantzintla I thought: Colour! There’s a cheerful feeling to it, with the white and the primary colours dancing in its façade and the cute statues looking like they were pulled from a children’s book.
Inside, every inch is covered, which isn’t uncommon in Baroque churches, but what is uncommon is that Franciscans allowed the indigenous artists to imprint their own style and vision, making it a perfect example of the “indigenous Baroque”. You can see a less obvious example at the Church of the Third Order, in Atlixco.
All around the walls and ceilings you’ll see details you don’t find in other churches: a representation of Tlaloc (the god of rain), fruits from Mexico, local plants, and elements that show side by side the indigenous and Spanish cultures.
From here, it’s a 20-minute walk to the Church of San Francisco Acatepec.
Avenida M.Hidalgo, Colonia de Santa María Tonantzintla, San Andrés Cholula
Marvel at the Talavera in the Church of San Francisco Acatepec
The church of San Francisco Acatepec, built between 1560 and 1760, is dedicated to Saint Francis, the patron of the Franciscan order that planted the church, and it’s located in Acatepec, which means “the hill of the reed grass”.
San Francisco Acatepec has one of the most stunning Baroque-style facades in Mexico, covered with multicolour talavera tiles and designed to resemble an altarpiece.
Niches, statues, columns, and scrolls cover its walls, with an elaborate belfry framed by Solomonic columns.
The interiors are like Baroque on steroids, with gold and swirls everywhere and hundreds of tiny eyes on angels’ faces looking at you, to the point that it’s eerie. It’s a sight to behold, but I prefer the exterior.
Take some time to relax in the beautiful, small front garden from where you can admire this masterpiece.
Puebla 6, Colonia San Francisco Acatepec, San Andrés Cholula
Relax at the Francisco Peláez Ethnobotanical Garden
If you made it to this side of Cholula to visit the two churches above and you have time to spare and you love gardens and nature, head to the Francisco Peláez Ethnobotanical Garden.
It’s either a 10-minute taxi ride or a 30-minute walk from the San Francisco Church. A walk where I saw absolutely nothing other than about a hundred street dogs so take a taxi unless you have plenty of time and you want to walk strictly for the sake of exercising.
In this medium-sized garden you’ll come across special details like large scale sculptures made of branches in the lavender garden, the hand painted tiles in the culinary garden, and the bird feeders made of gourds. You can see tons of hummingbirds around.
In addition to the typical flower gardens where you can see shade plants, wild plants, small fountains and parterres, you can learn about sustainability, recycling, composting and how to make your garden more environmentally-friendly.
One thing different about this place is that it doesn’t have the formality of most gardens. It almost feels like you’re walking around the backyard of a friend who has a mega green thumb. You’ll see painted perforated cans, bottles, discarded laundry sinks, and dollar-store baskets used as planters. Which means you can get some cool ideas for your own garden that cost next to nothing.
And the food at the café is fresh and delicious.
Calle 2 Sur, 1700, San Andrés Cholula; Open Mon.to Sat.: 9AM-5PM; Sun. 10AM-3PM; Guided tours available for a fee and extra activities on weekends.
How to Get to Cholula from Puebla City
You can take an Uber for a faster and not so expensive way to go to Cholula, as it’s close to Puebla. Cheaper way? The bus.
Go to the Terminal de Autobuses Cholula y Anexas, located eight blocks from Puebla’s zócalo, on Calle 13 Norte and Avenida 6 Poniente and hop on the Puebla-Cholula DIRECTO bus. The fare is 10 pesos and the trip lasts about 45 minutes.
Hop off at the stop in the big San Andrés Cholula roundabout under the bridge (it’s marked on Google Maps as Parada Directo Cholula-CU-Intermedio) which will leave you about four blocks northeast from Cholula’s pyramid.
Or, you can take this guided tour on an open-air traditional trolley departing from Puebla’s historical centre (by the main square), stopping at the great pyramid, the Santa Maria Tonantzintla and the San Francisco Acatepec churches, and at Cholula’s main square.
Art, architecture, and history combine in the Magic Town of Cholula, Puebla, to offer a well-rounded experience. Did you know that the biggest pyramid in the world (by volume) was in Mexico? Have you heard of Cholula before?
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These churches are absolutely beautiful!! Love this post!
Thanks! The state of Puebla is famous for the beauty of its churches
Those churches are stunning! I love the variety you included in this post. Amazing photos too!
Thanks! This place offers something for everyone