The city of Teotihuacan was the big kahuna of the old Mesoamerican world, to the point that the influence it exerted on the region lasted beyond its downfall.
Visiting the archeological site of Teotihuacan (pronounced tey-oh-tee-wah-KAHN) is one of the most popular day trips from Mexico City. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is famous for its historic value, its imposing pyramids, and the rich decorative details you can see in some of the temples.
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This is your guide to Teotihuacan: ”The place where men become gods”.
Table of Contents
What Is So Special about Teotihuacan?
Teotihuacan, founded around 200 B.C.,was the first planned urban settlement in Mesoamerica.
Before its collapse around 700 to 750 A.D. Teotihuacan was a key player in the commercial trade and had a skilled team of artisans who created a pottery style that would be replicated across the region.
They designed the talud-tablero architectural style (a sloped wall with a straight panel in the mid section) that was replicated in other important pilgrimage centres.
The diversion of the San Juan River to the north side, crossing the Avenue of the Dead, was an engineering prowess. In addition to supplying water to the public and private buildings in the heart of the city and collecting the runoff, the rocks from the excavations were used to build walls around the ceremonial centres. Some walls are reconstructed, but you can still see many original ones.
Teotihuacan, with a population of 175,000, had a deep social stratification and a government ruled by religion. After nine centuries of awesomeness, the city was abandoned.
Is Teotihuacan Aztec or Mayan?
Neither, nor.
The Mayans were around what is today southern Mexico, parts of Honduras, all around Guatemala, and all of Belize. They traded with Teotihuacan, but archeologists haven’t found any indication that they moved there.
Although Teotihuacan is a Nahuatl word (Nahuatl is the language of the Aztecs), when the Aztecs arrived in the city it was already abandoned. However, when they saw the magnificent layout their jaws fell to the floor and they worshiped the site.
Even after everyone was gone, the mystical influence of Teotihuacan carried on with the Toltecs and the Aztecs.
Who were the first peoples who inhabited this site? Olmecs? Totonacs? Archeologists are still debating this topic.
Are you Allowed to Climb Teotihuacan?
Not anymore. Before, you could climb to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun and about halfway the Pyramid of the Moon, but now it’s not allowed and it may be a permanent thing. I took these pictures before they banned climbing the structures.
You can still climb some of the smaller pyramids and walk through some of the complexes.
Of course it’s kind of a drag that you can’t get a bird’s eye view of the complex, but even if the pyramid steps are out of reach it’s still worth going to see this wonder, especially if you’re a history buff.
How Much Time Do You Need to See Teotihuacan?
You’ll need at least three hours. It’s a big site that requires long walks with lots to see, and with two museums (admission included with your ticket).
If you’re like me and you crawl through museums slower than a tortoise with arthritis you’ll need at least four hours.
Best Teotihuacan Tours from Mexico City
You can easily reach Teotihuacan by public transit from Mexico City, but if you want everything arranged for you, or you’re limited in time and you want to combine a visit to this site with other interesting destinations and fun activities check out these highly-rated popular tours:
TEOTIHUACAN EXPRESS PRIVATE TOUR: most tours take all day, but if you want a private, half day tour that only goes to the pyramids and you’re not interested in tequila tastings, pre-arranged lunches, or wandering around souvenir shops, this is it.
Book this private tour which has a rating of 5/5 based on more than 235 reviews.
TEOTIHUACAN PLUS BIKE TOUR (half-day guided tour): after a 2-hour walking tour around the site you’ll jump on a bicycle to ride around the Teotihuacan Valley for a different view of the pyramids, see some murals, visit a cave, an arts and crafts centre and a local restaurant.
Book this bike tour which has a rating of 4.9/5 based on more than 100 reviews.
The Teotihuacan Pyramids
I’ll start with the Pyramid of the Moon which is seen as the start of the Avenue of the Dead. The entrance closer to this point is Gate #3. If you arrive by car you can access through this gate. If you take the public bus you can get off at Gate # 2, which is right in front of the Pyramid of the Sun, and walk from there.
The Pyramid of the Moon and the Square of the Moon
Before you arrive at the Pyramid of the Moon you’ll step in the Square of the Moon, with several pyramidal temples facing each other around a square measuring about 466 feet on each side. It’s like the anteroom of the pyramid.
Right in the middle of the square you can see the remains of the central altar where priests performed sacred ceremonies. It was decorated with elements that matched with the surrounding buildings.
Presiding the square you’ll see the Pyramid of the Moon, the site’s second largest after the Pyramid of the Sun, measuring approximately 500 ft. x 433 ft. and 140 ft. high, with a platform at the front with slope-panel walls. At some point it had a temple at the top.
Even though it’s smaller than the Pyramid of the Sun, its uninterrupted view of the Avenue of the Dead has led historians to think that this was a major public ceremonial centre.
The Palace of Quetzalpapalotl (Palace of the Jaguar)
You must check out the central courtyard of this palace, called the Patio of the Pillars. The decorative elements are unique in the whole site.
I loved the carved stone columns depicting owls and quetzals (a beautiful bird that was sacred for the Aztecs and the Mayans). The original columns had a coat of paint and obsidian pieces.
A red wraparound band with frets and other geometric patterns tops the structure. Around the courtyard there were anterooms leading to residences reserved for Teotihuacan’s VIPs who participated in the ceremonies conducted at the Pyramid of the Moon.
Also check the murals on the lower section of the wall around the covered patio.
The Mural of the Puma
Archeologists found this mural in the Puma Complex in 1963, between the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon, on the east side of the Avenue of the Dead. Well, they think the big cat with the claws out and open jaws resembles a puma. It’s a beautiful mural with a background of diagonal lines in red, white, and green (symbolizing water). The green circles are chalchihuites, representing precious stones used in collars and other pieces of jewelry.
The Avenue of the Dead (Calzada de Los Muertos)
The Avenue of the Dead is the main road in Teotihuacan that spans for more than two miles, starting at the Pyramid of the Moon on the north side and ending at an unexplored area on the south side.
The avenue is lined up on both sides with complexes from different constructive periods -some as old as 150 A.D.- where palaces and temples built over pyramidal bases are arranged around central squares. Some buildings were dedicated to administrative and religious activities and some were private residences where only the elite (read: priests) could live. Some courtyards were used for big celebrations.
The Pyramid of the Sun
This massive pyramid is the largest in the complex, the largest of its period in the pre-Hispanic world (100-650 A.D.) and the third largest in the world. At some point in time there was a temple at the top for ceremonies dedicated to the god sun.
Construction started between 1-100 A.D., featuring three layers over a solid interior. The platform in front of it, along with two temples on its side, were added between 100 and 250 A.D.
The sculptures you’ll see laying on the ground in front of the pyramid, with feline heads and paws and rattlesnake tails, and geometric figures, were part of the friezes adorning the added platform.
The West Plaza Complex
To me one of the most interesting clusters along the Avenue of the Dead was the West Plaza Complex, one of the few that has an altar in the middle and where you can clearly see a new building covering an old one.
The buried building, with big serpent heads with forked tongues adorning the end of the stairs, was associated with the Temple of Quetzacoatl. The heads are made of gray stone and covered in pink stucco.
The “new”construction has jaguar heads instead.
The Citadel
Hey, these aren’t hills! There are buildings under these trees! It wasn’t until the early 20th century that archeologists figured out that what looked like hills were actually the temples where the big bosses of Teotihuacan decided the fate of the city.
Its location, at the intersection of the Avenue of the Dead and what was the East-West Avenue, speaks of its importance. The indigenous cosmovision sees a world divided in regions by the four cardinal points (plus the one connecting the underworld, the earth, and the heavens above). If something is located on that intersection, big things happen there.
On the north side you’ll see buildings that were used as an arts and crafts production hub that made utensils for the upper class. Archeologists believe that the vast open space in the square functioned as the city market and as the designated trading centre. A busy place.
The Temple of Quetzacoatl
At the centre of the Citadel you’ll find the Temple of Quetzacoatl (Temple of the Feathered Serpent).
Quetzacoatl was the god supreme who created humans, the world, the calendar, and was the provider of all goods. Its seven-level temple, built between 150 and 200 A.D. following the “slope-panel” style, celebrates the origin of time and the calendar cycles and had to be nothing but spectacular.
It may not be the tallest or the most imposing building, but it’s my favourite since you can see many stone-carved architectural ornaments in the form of serpents slithering among seashells, serpent heads emerging from flowers and serpents wearing headdresses. If we would jump in a time machine, we would see all this painted in a multitude of colours and we would fall down on our knees in admiration.
But building a fabulous temple wasn’t enough to honour the mother of all gods. During the excavations they found out that human sacrifices occurred during the early construction of the temple, with men as young as 13. Along with the bodies in kneeling position there were objects like sea shells, figurines, blades, nose rings, and collars made with human jaw bones. Creepy.
Climbing this temple isn’t allowed (nothing new), but you can see the ornaments up close and you can have an elevated view from the building in front of it.
Teotihuacan Site Museums
The Museum of the Teotihuacan Culture has a collection of artifacts found during the site excavations, building ornaments, and a scale model of the complex.
The Museum of Teotihuacan Murals has a sample of the murals found in the complex.
The entrance fee is included with the site admission.
Tips to Visit Teotihuacan
Bring comfortable shoes: you’ll walk. A lot. In case you missed the part where I mention that the Avenue of the Dead is long I’ll say it again: it’s more than two miles (about 3 Kms.), one way.
Bring sunglasses, a hat, and sunblock: there’s no shade whatsoever. None.
Go early in the morning: if you can be there when it opens at 9AM (or before if you take an early morning tour) you’ll have a better experience with less crowds, less heat, and you’ll avoid the direct sun. If you’re there before nine it may be a little bit cold (especially from December to February) so you may want to bring a light sweater.
Bring water and a snack: hot day+long walk+no shade. Need I say more?
Be patient with the vendors: you’ll get hammered with vendors approaching you to buy souvenirs and trinkets that sound like a jaguar. You may want to buy something to support the locals but if you don’t want to buy anything, a polite but firm “No, gracias” as you keep walking is enough. It may be annoying, but we must remember that they’re trying to make a living, and this is their land.
Don’t go on a Sunday: this place is always busy, but on Sundays is super packed because the entrance is free for Mexicans and residents. Avoid it at all costs. Go on a weekday, if possible.
You need a permit to use a tripod: the permit can’t be obtained on site as it’s processed in Mexico City, you must request it in advance. If you want to take video with a small camera (GoPro type) you must pay MXN$45.
You must arrive before 3PM: the site is open every day from 9AM to 4PM, but the doors close at 3PM sharp.
Bring cash: if you buy the ticket on site you must bring cash. General admission is MXN$ 90.
How to Get to Teotihuacan from Mexico City
We took public transit to go to Teotihuacan. There are many tours available, but if you prefer to do your own thing getting there is easy.
–Take the subway to the Autobuses del Norte station, which leaves you at the Terminal Central de Autobuses del Norte, a behemoth of a bus terminal with lots of eateries and stores.
-Go to the Autobuses Teotihuacan stand (hall or módulo 8) to buy your roundtrip ticket. They’ll tell you which bus platform to go to. The buses will have a sign that says “Pirámides”, and they depart every 15 minutes, from as early as 6AM. If you get there early there’s a gazillion restaurants around the area where you can have breakfast.
-The trip is about one hour. Prepare your ears for the troubadours on board.
-The bus will stop at gate 1 (on the south side close to the Temple of Quetzacoatl) and at gate 2 (right in front of the Pyramid of the Sun).
-You can take the bus back to Mexico City from gates 1, 2, or 3. Ask around to make sure you’re on the right spot and don’t wait for the last bus if you want a seat.
After visiting Teotihuacan and seeing its orderly layout, the magnificence of its pyramids, and the artistry reached in arts, science, and architecture, it’s easy to see why they became the epicentre of the Mesoamerican culture during their time and beyond. Share this post with someone who is planning a trip to Mexico City.
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