Few things can beat the excitement of seeing pods of belugas and whales frolicking in the water, in their natural habitat. As in, free!
The small town of Tadoussac, overlooking the bay where the waters of the Saguenay river mix with the St.-Lawrence river, is an excellent spot to see whales and seals. The best time of the year to see the marine wildlife is from mid-May to November.
We departed from Old Quebec in the morning to drive three hours north on Route 138.
This will easily be one of the most memorable drives you can take. We made our way through Charlevoix and beyond, marveling at the sight of the St. Lawrence River, pine-covered hills, and lakes. Once we reached the north side of Baie Sainte-Catherine (the Bay) a short ferry ride on the Saguenay River dropped us in Tadoussac.
We checked in at one of the inns along the Rue des Pionniers, the closest main road to the Baie de Tadoussac, before walking towards the bay to catch the sunset and hopefully see a whale passing by. The reflection of the trees on the water, the lazy glide of the boats, and the birds swimming around make a magnificent view.
It was the perfect start to our stay, before taking the whale watching cruise and doing some hiking the next day.
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Whale-watching at the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park
On a rather cold and windy morning, we boarded the boat that took us to the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park, in the hopes of seeing the wildlife inhabiting this beautiful landscape.
As we left the shore behind, the bone-chilling wind picked up and I started feeling like a static ball inside a freezing tumble dryer.
The knowledgeable guide described the geography of the region and the different species we might encounter until the magic happened and we started spotting minke whales and pods of belugas. Other species you may see during the three-hour cruise include the blue whale, the fin whale, the humpback whale, and the grey seal.
A dose of mercy came our way and the weather finally warmed up, just in time to enjoy a short and sunny venture into the Saguenay fjords before returning to shore. The view was nothing short of ah-mazing.
We had a good experience booking the boat trip with Croisieres AML. The guide shared a wealth of information about the wildlife and pointed it out whenever it would surface. Although it was a bilingual tour, the guide spoke mainly in French. (Note: this is not a paid review. We did the reservation on our own and paid 100% for our trip.)
Sentier de la Pointe-de-l’Islet (Islet Point trail)
Follow this short and mostly flat trail (around one kilometre long) to access a fantastic viewpoint from where you will have a good chance to see whales navigating the Saguenay fjords, to feast on the abundant fish and plankton present in the area.
The entrance of the trail, which runs mainly on a boardwalk, is on the Tadoussac Bay, as you walk towards the marina.
I stopped every now and then as I strolled along the wooden path to enjoy views of the water through clear pockets in the forest.
At several points, you can step down to the large, smooth rocks forming the water’s edge for a closer look at the many birds flying over the bay like a razor or lying down to warm up to the sun.
Did I spot any whales here? Nope. The whale gods were not on my side that afternoon. But with such a scenic landscape (and after getting my “whale dose” in the morning cruise), it’s still worth every step.
Where to Eat in Tadoussac
Café Boheme
I was impressed by the delicious food served in this café/gallery that makes you feel as if you were having dinner at a design-savvy friend’s house.
Tasty dishes, fresh ingredients, with vegetarian options. The desserts are to die for.
239 Rue des Pionniers
A visit to Tadoussac is about the journey and the destination. The scenic drive will take you to one of the best spots for whale watching, surrounded by a beautiful landscape. Have you seen marine life in the wild anywhere else in Quebec? What is your favourite spot?
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