Sierra Gorda de Queretaro: An Exciting 3-Day Getaway to Nature’s Paradise

High up in the mountains of the state of Queretaro lies the Sierra Gorda Biosphere Reserve  (Reserva de la Biosfera Sierra Gorda), where rivers, waterfalls, forests, and natural formations of unparalleled beauty await the outdoor adventure seeker. 

It’s also a fantastic place to see wildlife as it’s an area with a high level of biodiversity.

For our gateway in the Sierra Gorda we booked a hotel in Jalpan (pronounced HAL-pahn) for four days. The town is centrally located, with buses and taxis that go along the main routes so we didn’t need to rent a car.

You’ll make the most of your experience if you stay a few days in reserve, but if you don’t have time and would like to see the gorgeous landscape of this region even for one day (you won’t regret it), you can book a 1-day tour from Santiago de Queretaro.

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These are some wonders you can see in a 3-day getaway in La Sierra Gorda de Queretaro.

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Puente de Dios (God’s Bridge)

Of all the places I visited in the Sierra Gorda this was my favourite. If I had time to do only one thing, this would be my pick.

The rocky trail ending at the natural formation known as Puente de Dios takes you through a dense forest of oak, walnut, and strawberry trees that feeds the crystal-clear springs pouring into the creek.

Follow the water to reach the destination and keep your eyes peeled for wildlife as you’re serenaded by the many birds around you.

During the 45-minute scenic walk, you’ll step on wood slats and rocks several times to cross the river, see curious shapes naturally engraved on the rocky slopes, climb to bridges anchored in a 50-metre high canyon, and admire cascades and quiet ponds tinted with turquoise blue.

We reached the natural bridge and I swear I could hear a choir of angels singing behind my head, momentarily silencing the roaring water.

You can thank the Escanela River for these gorgeous formations framed by poplar trees. From a small creek in the upper section of Pinal de Amoles, it grows into a river with a powerful current making its way down through the limestone and creating these sinuous, rocky water jets as if you would be in a giant outdoor jacuzzi.

Walk under the natural bridge to see all sorts of swirls and stalactites formed by the drippings. Yep! The water is freaking cold. I walked past the cave to see the bridge on the other side, balancing on bigger rocks. The current gets stronger, making it increasingly harder to go further.

You’ll return the same way you came in for a second chance to enjoy the beautiful landscape.

What to Know Before You Go To Puente de Dios

At the trailhead, you pay a fee (MXN$ 120 p/p) and they assign you a guide. IMO, there’s no need for that as the trail is quite straightforward.

At the time of our visit, the guide stayed with us for a few minutes. After indicating that we just have to follow the river he asked if we were fine and we said yes we can go on our own and he was fine with that.

However, due to the pandemic, they’re currently enforcing going with the guide all the way and you’re allowed to stay a maximum of 15 minutes before coming back. You can’t wander on your own.

You can either wait until things go back to “normal” (and hope that they’ll get rid of the time allotment) or go anyway and enjoy this beautiful spot, even if you can only stay for 15 minutes at the natural bridge. It’s totally worth it.

If you decide to go now, do it on a weekday, early morning. Weekends are crowded and there’s a greater chance that the guide is going to rush you so he can come back to pick up another group. 

During the rainy season, if the river rises above certain level you may not be able to take the path I described above. There’s an alternate path you can take. However, during the height of the rainy season, the site is closed.

What to Wear

Bring strap water sandals with a good grip. You’ll have to walk over slippery rocks, get your feet wet, and go in the water to explore the underside of the natural bridge.

Bring shorts and breathable clothes that dry fast.

How to Get to Puente de Dios from Jalpan

At the taxi stand close to the municipal market we took a ride to the site. After a 30-minute scenic uphill drive through winding roads and a lush landscape, the driver took a turn to go downhill into a 5-kilometre dirt road (terracería), leaving us as close as possible to the entrance of the site, in a small town.  

After we were done we didn’t find any taxis. We started walking uphill on the terracería towards the main road with a terrific view of the mountains.

However, after 20 minutes we worried about missing the last bus to Jalpan so we hitchhiked. A nice couple gave us a ride to the intersection with the main road where we caught the Flecha Amarilla bus.  

Check the bus schedule at the bus station before departing to make sure you make it back (and make sure you have enough water if you plan to walk back).

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Cascada El Chuveje (Chuveje Waterfall)

El Chuveje is a horsetail waterfall landing in a shallow pool surrounded by a lush forest of poplar trees.

You’ll first walk past a few vendors and you’ll see the trailhead where you pay MXN$ 80 p/p.

The first section of the trail is elevated, with a view of the treetops before leveling down until you can walk pretty close to the creek and even swim in the shallow natural pools (except during the height of the rainy season).

The area is home to a variety of wildlife: White-tailed deer, gray foxes, armadillos, coatís, raccoons, woodpeckers, mot-mots, and green macaws.

During the 30-minute shaded walk to the waterfall, you’ll see the gentle water flow cascading down tall steps formed by rocks.

At the end of the trail you’ll find the 30-metre high Cascada El Chuveje. The waterfall is beautiful, but I liked the setting even more, with the mountain forming a half circle and ferns poking through the big rocks and covering them in shades of green.

Getting in the water to stand next to the cascade is not allowed anymore due to falling rocks. Camping is allowed, but there are no restroom facilities.

This is a popular attraction. Go on a weekday to avoid the crowds.

How to Get to Cascada El Chuveje from Jalpan

At the taxi stand close to the municipal market we took a ride to the trailhead, around 15 minutes away from Jalpan.

From the main road the driver made a turn into a 3-kilometre dusty, bumpy road going up and down to get to the site.

On the way back we walked for around 20 minutes and then hitchhiked to the main road where we took the Flecha Amarilla bus back to Jalpan.

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Presa Jalpan (Jalpan Dam and Water Reservoir)

This water reservoir is a fantastic site for birdwatching, kayaking, mountain biking, and swimming.

We rented a pedal boat to go around the dam and got closer to the birds resting in dead trees, sticking out of the water looking like sculptures.

This is a refuge for migratory birds during the winter offering plenty of food. You can see ducks, egrets, pelicans, and anhingas, among other species.

On the shore, the clear water looked inviting and we swam before walking along the jetty to a lookout for another view of the mountains.

The forest you see is home to white-tailed deer, coatís, gray foxes, raccoons, and jaguarundis. It’s a peaceful place and a good alternative for spending an afternoon in the water within walking distance from town.

The reservoir is a 20-minute walk from the Franciscan Mission square. It’s easy to follow the directions on your phone to get there as it’s pretty much a straight walk from the main church.  When you arrive you’ll see a big gate taking you to a place with pools and food vendors. 

Right behind, in the palapas areas, is the access to the dam. You can rent kayaks, boats, and pedal boats by the hour.   

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Mision Jalpan

Between outdoor adventures take some time to explore Jalpan de Serra, one of Mexico’s Magical Towns with a lovely main square (Jardín Principal), surrounded by colourful 2-story old houses.

It’s the epicentre of Jalpan’s life, and home to one of the five Franciscan Missions in the Sierra Gorda, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Santiago de Jalpan church is a stunning building in Baroque style with local influence, built by the Pames (the indigenous population) under the direction of Fray Junípero Serra.

It was completed in 1758 and it was the first of the five missions built as part of the evangelization program.

When you stand in front of the ochre, orange, and terracotta structure, it looks as if berry and oak trees carved in stone and stucco took over the main facade, with cute angels checking people from above.

It has niches crowned with carved shells housing statues of saints on the lower section, and Virgin Mary on the upper section, with Saint Peter and Saint Paul, considered the pillars of the church, on each side of the main door.

In the lower section, don’t miss the double-headed eagle eating the serpent, a unique detail of the Franciscan Missions. The eagle eating the serpent is a symbol in the Mexican flag and the double-headed eagle was the symbol of Spain when it was ruled by the House of Habsburgs in the 1700s.

The best time to take pictures of this beauty is right before sunset when the sun bathes the facade with a glorious golden glow.

How to Get to Jalpan de Serra in La Sierra Gorda 

From Santiago de Queretaro: the closest airport to Jalpan is the Queretaro International Airport (QRO), in Santiago de Queretaro, with direct flights from Houston, Dallas, Chicago, and main airports within Mexico.

From there you can take a taxi or catch a bus to Jalpan de Serra.

My preferred bus lines are Primera Plus and ETN as they have the most comfortable buses, but service may be seasonal. The alternative is taking the Flecha Amarilla bus (3.75 hours).

From Mexico City: you can either fly to Santiago de Queretaro and then take a bus or take one from Mexico City (check the schedules to make sure you’re at the right terminal) all the way to Jalpan. The trip is more than eight hours so I would only do that if the Primera Plus or ETN routes are operational. But you may be up to it.

Another alternative is taking the ETN or Primera Plus bus from the Mexico City Benito Juarez Airport (MEX) to Santiago de Queretaro and connecting to Jalpan via bus or taxi.

From San Luis Potosi (La Huasteca): we arrived in Jalpan from Ciudad Valles in San Luis Potosi (around four hours). Check if the Primera Plus bus from Xilitla to Jalpan is operational or otherwise travel direct from Ciudad Valles with Grupo Vencedor.

For bus schedules and costs check www.primeraplus.com.mx; www.etn.com.mx

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The landscape of the Sierra Gorda, with its mountains and waterfalls, is breathtaking. Walking through a concert of greens next to crystal clear creeks with notes of blue will be forever etched in your memory. I can’t wait to go back and explore this region even further.

Add a stop to this natural area when you plan your trip to Mexico. What would be your not-to-miss activity?

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