Whether Madonna fell in love with this San Pedro or not (the widespread rumour that La Isla Bonita was about this island in Belize was busted by the singer), you may fall in love with San Pedro.
This busy town is the capital of Ambergris Caye, an island off the north coast of Belize famous for its unlimited underwater visibility and its rich marine life, making it a snorkeling and scuba diving paradise. And there’s more to it than its capital.
Does Ambergris Caye (pronounced am-BER-gris key) have what it takes to make you say “Yes”?
Here I tell you what you need to know to decide if you and San Pedro are a match made in heaven.
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Table of Contents
The Abundant Wildlife in Ambergris Caye
Hang around the docks in San Pedro and you’ll spot many brown pelicans and Great Frigatebirds.
When you’re ready for more, rent a golf cart to get away from the hustle and bustle of the main town, cross the Boca del Rio bridge and head towards the northern part of Ambergris Caye. Follow the road as if you were going to Secret Beach until you find the mangrove lagoons, where you can see tons of birds.
We stopped at several points to spot not only birds, but crocodiles. Keep your eyes peeled along the way.
It wasn’t until we reached this part of the island, with far less development and far more nature, that I started to get the laid back Caribbean vibe. The one with the trees swaying in the breeze and the chanting of birds rather than the loud music of dozens of bars.
This was my favourite part of Ambergris Caye. Loved it.
The Sunsets at The Truck Stop
The best sunset spot I found from land was The Truck Stop. This is an informal, open-air eatery with picnic tables among trees and containers turned into food trucks. You’ll find many places to eat in San Pedro, but this one is unique. Listen to live music, play games, and relax on the lounge deck to catch the sunset (and try to spot crocodiles).
The Truck Stop is on the north side, about five minutes after you cross the Boca del Rio bridge.
YOU CAN ALSO CATCH THE SUNSET FROM A BOAT:
Sunset Sail Tour: sip rum punch and have snacks as you sail aboard a 40′ sailboat along the Ambergris Caye coastline. Keep your eyes peeled for dolphins and sea turtles and see the shine of the first stars on the way back.
Watch the sunset with this tour, with a 95% 5-star rating based on more than 80 reviews.
The Top-Notch Scuba Diving and Snorkeling in Belize’s Barrier Reef
Don your equipment of preference and explore Belize’s rich underwater world.
The Belize Barrier Reef Reserve System, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the largest reef system on this side of the pond, is a unique marine environment offering an excellent opportunity to see all kinds of sea creatures.
There are several sites to visit including the famous Great Blue Hole (a giant marine sinkhole that you can also see from above taking a flight with Tropic Air), Shark Ray Alley, and the Hol Chan Marine Reserve.
Hol Chan Marine Reserve Snorkel Tour: board a 40′ sailboat in San Pedro to see wildlife while you snorkel for half a day at Hol Chan and Shark Ray Alley.
Snorkel at Hol Chan, with 90% 5-star reviews based on more than 250 reviews.
The Vibe of San Pedro
Whoa! This place is busy! I thought when I first arrived in San Pedro. Way busier than I had imagined. Bars and bars and restaurants and stores and more bars and more stores on top of each other, and less of what I was hoping for: long strips of sandy beaches.
San Pedro has its charm, no doubt. But it’s hanging by a thread, doing its best to stay afloat amidst rampant overdevelopment. Your love metre for the town may go up or down depending on what you’re looking for and where you’re staying.
If you’re in a party mood seeking to bar hop and you don’t mind some noise you’ll be fine staying downtown.
If you want to enjoy the bar scene but sleep sound at night you’re better off booking a place north or south of San Pedro. Even though noise pollution is not the major issue it was in the past (the government passed a regulation after residents complained), the area is still busy and kind of noisy.
If you’re looking for total relaxation, stay out of San Pedro (but you’ll need a golf cart).
The Beaches of Ambergris Caye
Caye Caulker or Ambergris Caye?, I wondered. I had spent almost three months in mainland Belize and I was ready for some island time. I researched both destinations and after learning that Caye Caulker and sandy beaches don’t belong in the same sentence I set my eyes on Ambergris Caye. Did I make the right decision? Keep reading.
In part, yes. There are sandy beaches in Ambergris Caye. The ones you see in advertisements with water so clear you can see all your toes and with shades of turquoise in the distance.
But if you have in mind long walks on wide stretches of powdery sand, you may be disappointed.
You’ll find instead smaller pockets of beaches that, depending on the season and the sargassum situation affecting the Caribbean, may or may not be covered in the thick, smelly floating seaweed.
If you’re staying at a beachfront hotel or resort you’ll be able to enjoy the beach as they hire people to rake the sargassum. Even if you don’t stay at a beachfront hotel you can still enjoy “their” beach as there is no such thing as a private beach in Belize. All beaches are public.
Let me repeat that: all beaches are public in Belize.
Of course you’re not allowed to use the hotel facilities and their chairs unless you’re a guest, but no one can tell you that you can’t lay your towel in the stretch of sand between the water and their property line.
But here’s the thing, in most cases that stretch of sand is non-existent.
Unfortunately, many beaches in Belize are disappearing. The overdevelopment I mentioned before includes the construction of docks and inadequate sea walls in condos, hotels, and resorts that, according to the experts, are behind the beach erosion.
Add to it the constant raking to get rid of the sargassum and the increase in the frequency of storms due to global warming and you have a less than ideal beach scenario that local groups are trying to address.
However, you can still find some lovely sandy beach spots within and outside the confines of a resort, just don’t expect miles of pristine beaches. Here they are:
The Stretch South of San Pedro
Walk south past the Royal Caribbean Resort which marks the San Pedro boundary and you’ll find pockets of sandy beaches in front of bars, villas and resorts. In some places the sea goes all the way to the seawalls, but some places still have a proper beach.
We walked south over a mile and found several spots and even a little bit of shade here and there under palm trees. Bring plenty of sunscreen and watch out for falling coconuts!
Boca del Rio Public Beach
Boca del Rio Public Beach is located right south of the namesake bridge that connects San Pedro with the north part of Ambergris Caye. It has one of the widest patches of sand in town and it’s great for families.
Even though you can’t see the sun going down here (the best spot is the Truck Stop on the west side), you can catch the magnificent colours of sunset reflecting on the clouds and the water.
Walk a little bit further south and you’ll find several beach bars to grab a drink and a bite to eat with the beautiful backdrop of the Caribbean Sea.
Secret Beach
This was my favourite beach spot in Ambergris Caye. Since Secret Beach is on the west side you won’t see any sargassum; the water is crystal clear.
Here you’ll find different options depending on the vibe you’re looking for. You can go for the club-like bars with louder-than-a-firetruck music, or you can go for quieter spots.
We opted for the latter and ended up at Blue Bayou, a beach bar with a small patch of sand, a few lounge chairs and a wood deck with steps to get in the ocean (not really a beach, but nice).
If you prefer a “submerged” experience you can eat and drink at the picnic tables in the water.
It’s better if you arrive in the morning as the place isn’t too big and it gets crowded as the day goes by.
If possible, visit on a weekday. During weekends the bars engage in a “let’s see whose music is louder” competition to the point that it’s plain noise.
How to Get to Secret Beach
The best way to get here is by renting a golf cart. You can take a taxi but it will be more expensive -and less fun- and you won’t have the chance to stop on the way to check out wildlife.
Secret Beach is secret only in name, you won’t need a machete and a compass to find it. Cross the Boca del Rio bridge heading north and then turn left on the main road heading west and drive until the end.
How to Get to San Pedro in Belize
By Boat
If you’re flying into Belize you can take a taxi from the Philip S.W. Goldson International Airport to the water taxi terminal. Or you can skip the long lines and book a shared shuttle, which also offers trips from the water taxi terminal to the international airport.
Save time and book ahead this shuttle service, with a 94% 5-star rating based on 290 reviews.
Two ferry companies offer daily trips departing regularly (about every hour or an hour and change) from 8AM to 5:30PM.:
Caribbean Sprinter Water Taxi (sprinter.bz)
San Pedro Belize Water Taxi (belizewatertaxi.com)
It takes about 1.5 hours, with a short stop in Caye Caulker. Most times I prefer boat rides, but these boats aren’t the most comfortable and sometimes they pack you like sardines. You may have a smoother experience if you fly (it’s more expensive but not horribly more expensive), as the boat boarding experience needs major improvement.
For example, if you book the ride online with San Pedro Belize Water Taxi they charge you an “Internet Processing Fee”. However, when you arrive with your printed boarding pass you still have to “get it checked” and lineup with people who just showed up at the terminal. If the lines are long and the boat is packed, you may need to wait for the next boat. What’s the point of booking online, then?
Note: when you book your ticket in person make sure you know the price in Belizean dollars. People have mistakenly paid the fare in US dollars and they had to jump through hoops to get a refund.
By Air
From the Belize International Airport you can catch a small plane to San Pedro. If you’re already in Belize you can also fly from Orange Walk , Corozal, or the Sir Barry Bowen Municipal Airport in Belize City. A little bit more expensive, but way more comfortable.
Maya Island Air and Tropic Air have planes departing every hour or less from the Philip S.W. Goldson International Airport, from 7:40AM until 5:40PM. It’s a 15-minute flight.
How to Get Around San Pedro
You’ll see a few cars here and there, but everybody gets around in golf carts. You’ll need to rent one if you’re staying out of town.
Rent it directly with one of the many shops you’ll see around town as you’ll probably pay less than if you do it through the hotel or resort.
Where to Stay in San Pedro
If you’re looking for a CENTRAL LOCATION where you can walk to many bars and restaurants (it can get noisy) you can stay right downtown.
Xanadu Island Resort: featuring 2 and 3-bedroom suites with fully equipped kitchens. This beachfront property has a swimming pool, a bar, and free bike and kayak rentals. Rating: 9.4 based on 70 reviews.
Alaia Belize, Autograph Collection: a beachfront hotel with outdoor pool and an on-site restaurant and a gym. Rating: 9.2 based on more than 185 reviews.
La Casa de Paz Hotel: if you prefer a regular hotel room close to the beach. Rating: 9.0 based on more than 490 reviews.
Do you want a quieter stay? SOUTH OF SAN PEDRO has several beachfront properties offering suites with fully-equipped kitchens and outdoor pool
Lighthouse Beach Villas: also has an on-site bar and free bikes and kayaks. Rating: 9.7 based on more than 75 reviews.
Hol Chan Reef Resort & Villas: also has an on-site bar an bikes for rent. All rooms in this property have a balcony. Rating: 9.2 based on more than 50 reviews.
Pelican Reef Villas Resort: also has a bar and an on-site restaurant. Rating: 9.5 based on more than 120 reviews.
NORTH OF SAN PEDRO is another option for a quieter stay.
Cocotal Inn and Cabanas: a beachfront property offering suites with a full kitchen, a free shuttle service, swimming pool, and free bikes and kayaks. Rating: 9.4 based on more than 125 reviews.
Sunset Caribe Belize: the units in this resort come with a kitchenette and a microwave, and balconies with lake views and a pool. Rating: 9.0 based on more than 55 reviews.
SECRET BEACH is a great pick if you really want to get away from it all.
Casa Nova Cabanas has units with patios overlooking the sea and free bikes for guests. Rating: 10 based on more than 10 reviews.
When Is the Best Time to Visit San Pedro
Since this is an outdoor destination the best time is during the dry season, which runs from December to May.
Some activities and day trips from San Pedro may not be available during the rainy season as caves flood and river levels rise. Plus it’s not that fun to drive on some of the unpaved streets of San Pedro in a golf cart when the potholes fill with water.
December is a busy month and prices go through the roof. You may find better deals if you visit after mid-January.
No matter when you visit, always carry mosquito repellent. You’re welcome.
Day Trips from San Pedro, Belize
You can stick to the marine theme during your vacation and take boat trips to visit other smaller islands, cayes and atolls along the barrier reef and/or you can add some variety and take day trips to mainland Belize (although I highly recommend staying inland a few days because the nature is awesome).
If you’re taking a tour inland you can fly (or, depending on the schedule, take the ferry) from San Pedro to the municipal airport closest to the tour departure point.
Some tours depart from the Belize Cruise Ship Terminal but most tour operators offer pickup from the water taxi terminal and even from the Belize Municipal Airport, which is only 10 minutes by taxi from the cruise terminal. Here are some activities you can do on a day trip from San Pedro:
YOU CAN EXPLORE CAVES
You can explore gorgeous caves and do cave tubing or kayaking. Belize has some impressive natural formations but if I had time to do only one thing inland I would visit the ATM cave. You must book a tour in advance but before doing so, read my post about the ATM cave to decide if it’s for you.
The ATM cave experience is a little too intense but you still want to visit one? Here are some alternatives, departing from Belize City:
Cave Kayaking Tour: this half day tour takes you to the Nohoc Chen Park, where you paddle along the Caves Branch river and enter a cave system to see an underground waterfall and crystalline rock formations. The intensity level do this experience varies depending on the river conditions.
Go kayaking in caves, with a 4.5/5 rating based on more than 380 reviews.
Cave Tubing and Ziplining: don’t want to paddle? Enjoy cave tubing instead and float down the river to reach caves full of stalactites and other formations in the company of a guide. Then zipline across 6 lines through the rainforest canopy.
Go and have fun tubing, with 91% 5-star rating based on more than 270 reviews.
Good to know: at times water levels may rise due to rainfall to a point where entering the caves may not be possible. This will affect some portions of the tour or the experience altogether.
YOU CAN VISIT MAYAN RUINS
Yes, there are Mayan ruins in Belize, the Mayans weren’t confined to Mexico. On a day trip you can visit Altun Ha or Lamanai. The latter includes a scenic boat ride on a river. These tours depart from Belize City and pick you up from the water taxi terminal, the cruise ship port or the Belize Municipal airport:
Altun Ha Mayan Site: enjoy a guided visit to the site museum and to the grounds of Altun Ha, where you can climb some pyramids and learn about the Mayan culture and the surrounding trees.
Read the great reviews here, with 92% 5-star rating based on more than 75 reviews.
Lamanai Temples and River Cruise: full-day tour that starts with a scenic river cruise where you can see wildlife. At Lamanai you can see temples, stellas, visit the site museums, have lunch (included) and listen to howler monkeys.
Book a trip to Lamanai, with 84% 5-star rating based on more than 110 reviews.
YOU CAN SEE WILDLIFE
After all the birds and the marine life you’ve seen in San Pedro you may want to check out other wildlife in Belize (there’s plenty of monkeys). You can also visit the Belize Zoo (which is not a zoo, it’s a sanctuary for rehabilitation of wildlife).
YOU CAN HIKE
You can also rent a car for the day and explore on your own as long as the activities don’t require a guide (as it’s the case for the caves). If you take the first flight to the Belize International Airport you could hike in the St. Herman’s Blue Hole National Park, visit the Guanacaste National Park, and see the rescue animals at the Belize Zoo (not a zoo, but a sanctuary) in one day.
Check out my blog post about the national parks and gardens in Belize to have an idea of what you can do.
Do you see yourself singing that you fell in love with this San Pedro? Maybe the underwater scenery or the ocean view from a sunny terrace will make you say “Yes”. Share this post with a friend who loves islands or save it to plan your next vacation.
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BOOKING FLIGHTS AND ACCOMMODATIONS
Book your flight without losing your shirt
We check Momondo to find great deals to book our flights. Also, check Great Escape: it combines the listings from Expedia, Kiwi, Kayak, (and Skyscanner on the premium service) to find the best airfares.
To find a place to stay for less
Booking.com: you’ll find any type of property you can think of in their massive listing, with one of the most comprehensive filters. We’ve found great deals on boutique hotels, apartments, and private rooms in hostels.
Hotwire: the first site I check when we plan to stay at a hotel for a few nights. You can save anything from 20% to 60%. Use the search filter to find what you want and you’ll end up with three listings that match your criteria. You’ll know which one you’ll get after you book. If you can handle a little bit of uncertainty you can score big savings.
House Sitting: you take care of people’s pets and house for free while staying for free. It’s the closest thing to experiencing a place “like a local”. But it comes with responsibilities… Are you an animal lover? It may become your new way to travel.
To get travel insurance
SafetyWing: travel medical insurance that gives us peace of mind knowing that we’re covered in case of emergency. It’s convenient, affordable, and suitable for digital nomads who spend a long time outside their home country.
Check the full list of travel resources on my Resource Page for more options and savings
I want to go there! You have thought of everything! The sunsets and beaches hooked me! Beautiful!
Nothing beats watching the sunset while having a drink at The Truck Stop.
Thanks for sharing this guide! And the pictures look so exploratory and adventurous. Belize seems like something one could totally fall in love with.
Belize is one of my favourite places ever!