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    The 5 Best of San Luis Potosí, La Huasteca: Magic Waterfalls and Surrealist Gardens

    By Mayra Carvajal

    The Huasteca Potosina is a paradisiac region in the state of San Luis Potosí with outdoor activities that will delight nature lovers: rappelling and jumping waterfalls, canoeing on bright turquoise rivers, seeing thousands of birds dance in the sky, or marvelling in the scenery of the place.

    The name of the region comes from the indigenous population, the Huastecs, who have inhabited the area from pre-Columbian times.

    We stayed in Ciudad Valles. While it’s not the prettiest city in Mexico its location makes it convenient to visit the outdoor attractions of the Huasteca, especially if you’re planning on relying on public transit.

    The best time to go is during the slow season, between January and March, when you can also get a -small- break from the intense heat and humidity. This place is hot!

    Disclosure: This post contains some affiliate links. If you make a purchase through those links I will earn a commission at no additional cost to you (zero, nada). To check the full disclaimer, click here.

    These are five sites you can visit in San Luis Potosí (La Huasteca) that will make you fall in love with Mexico.

    A surrealist building in a jungle
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    Table of Contents

    • Tamul Waterfall (Cascada de Tamul)
      • How to Get to Tamul Waterfall from Ciudad Valles by Bus
    • Tamasopo Waterfalls  
      • How to Get to Tamasopo Waterfalls from Ciudad Valles by Bus
    • Micos Waterfalls (Cascada de Micos)
      • How to get to Micos Waterfalls from Ciudad Valles by Bus
    • The Surrealist Gardens of Xilitla (Jardín Escultórico Edward James, Las Pozas)
    • How to get to Las Pozas in Xilitla from Ciudad Valles by Bus
    • The Cave of Swallows (El Sótano de Las Golondrinas)
      • How to Get to The Cave of Swallows from Ciudad Valles by Bus
    • How to get to the Huasteca Potosina (Ciudad Valles)
      • Sierra Gorda de Queretaro: An Exciting 3-Day Getaway to Nature’s Paradise

    Tamul Waterfall (Cascada de Tamul)

    A tall waterfall in a natural environment
    Tamul waterfall

    Tamul is the most spectacular waterfall we visited in the Huasteca Potosina with a 340 feet fall, making it the state’s tallest.

    Besides the waterfall, the scenic natural environment with greens covering the walls of the deep canyon and the turquoise water of the Tampaón River deserves nothing less than a standing ovation.

    We arrived at the small town of Tanchachín and hired the very first tour guide we found at the entrance of the town. Within minutes a group of four arrived and we shared the cost of a boat. 

    We jumped on the guide’s van for a short drive to La Morena, where you find the launching platforms after a 1.5-kilometre easy walk looking at cows and birds, with pretty mountains in the background. 

    People wearing life jackets walking in an open field with mountains in the background
    Boats on a river with mountains in the background
    On the way to the river and ready to paddle

    Armed with a paddle and donning a life jacket we boarded the boat to float on the pale blue water. The colour turned into a mix of bright turquoise and deep blue as we approached the sunny and shaded areas flanked by canyon walls as high as skyscrapers.

    I felt like I was in a scene of The Lord Of The Rings and I was waiting for Frodo to pop up from under the cascades covering the big rocks we passed on the sides. You must protect the ring!

    Video of the paddle along the Tampaon River

    We arrived at the farthest point in our river journey, next to a huge rock you can climb for a good view of the Tamul waterfall.

    A couple standing on a big rock with a waterfall in the distance
    The view of Tamul waterfall

    Note: you can’t paddle up to the base of the waterfall, the current is too strong. You’ll see the side of the waterfall, from a distance. It’s still a wonderful view!

    After taking your picture and taking a plunge or two from the rock you go back in the boat and a few minutes later you get off to float in the river and let the current take you. It was one of the best moments of the trip. If you prefer, you can walk along the bank of the river.

    Rafting in the river: if you would like a more challenging adventure you can do rafting in the class 3 rapids of the Tampaon River. Lunch, snacks, and transportation from Ciudad Valles included.
    Book this tour, with a rating of 5/5 based on 800 reviews.

    The next stop in the river was at Cueva del Agua for a 40-minute break to swim inside a big cave, take the stairs to enjoy several viewpoints of a powerful cascade, and grab something to eat from the vendors. 

    Video of the Tampaon River and Cueva del Agua

    Back on the boat again you paddle your easy way back trying to take in as much as possible all the beauty, locking in your memory the raging waters and the vivid colours.

    The boat trip takes three to four hours, depending on how fast you paddle.

    To go back we paid a friend of the guide to drop us at the intersection where we took the Vencedor bus to Ciudad Valles. 

    Bring your swimsuit, towel, water sandals, waterproof phone case, a hat, and insect repellent.

    Renting an entire boat costs MXN$ 1,600, which you can share with several people. You have to pay MXN$10 p/p at the gate of La Morena. Bring cash.

    Note: there’s another way to see the Tamul waterfall.  From Campamento Tamul you can walk to the lookout at the top of the canyon, see the waterfall from the side, and then either take the stairs to the base or rappel on the side with a tour operator. We could only do one and we opted for the boat.

    How to Get to Tamul Waterfall from Ciudad Valles by Bus

    From the Transporte Vencedores station near the Eco Central Grande, we took the bus to El Sauz (it follows the same road as if you were going to Tamasopo). We asked the driver to drop us at the intersection where we had to take the bus to Tanchachín, (around 30-40 minutes from Valles).

    Only after we arrived did we find out that there was only one bus to Tanchachín on Sundays, at 1:45PM. Errr…..wait for 2 hours? Nope. A more than 3-hour walk under the hot sun on a road with no space to walk wasn’t an option either.

    Like Clark Kent ripping his suit to save Lois Lane from trouble, a taxi showed up out of the blue to save the day, dropping us at a tour operator in town.


    Tamasopo Waterfalls  

    A waterfall seen from above
    Tamasopo waterfalls

    Tamasopo has three beautiful waterfalls in a water park that, as long as you’re not expecting a wild and all-natural environment, won’t disappoint.  

    A water park with flowers in the foreground
    The water park at Tamasopo
    A natural pool with a waterfall
    Pools around the waterfalls

    It’s good for a relaxing day when you want to be comfortable in a park-like setting, swim in the (cold) shallow pool around the waterfalls, and eat and drink at one of the several restaurants while enjoying the exuberant landscape.

    Three waterfalls amongst trees
    The falls and shallow pool at Tamasopo

    If you want to mix your adventure trip to la Huasteca with a slow-paced day outdoors, this is your place.  

    There are other attractions you can visit in Tamasopo, though. We only had time to do the waterfalls but there are other more “natural” spots such as the famous Puente de Dios, Los Otates, and the nearby hiking trails.

    Best time to visit it’s November to June, when the water level is low, especially if you want to go in the (cold) pool.

    Bring water shoes and cash (they don’t take credit cards at the door nor at some of the food stands).

    General admission: MXN$100 p/p.If you drive there the parking fee is MXN$ 50; Open every day: 8AM to 6PM

    How to Get to Tamasopo Waterfalls from Ciudad Valles by Bus

    From the Transporte Vencedores station near the Eco Central Grande we took the bus to Tamasopos (enjoy the landscape along the ride).

    The trip takes 1.5 hours. Once you arrive at the station you can walk two minutes to the taxi stand that takes you to the Tamasopos waterfalls.


    Bonus Tip

    We found one of the best pizzas we’ve had anywhere in the world in Ciudad Valles. Yes, right here. It was so good, with a crunchy, almost pastry-like thin crust, and so tasty, that it was the only thing we tried out of the four times we had dinner there. If you would like to give it a try go to La Tradizionale Napoli in Boulevard Mexico Laredo, Lomas Oriente.


    Micos Waterfalls (Cascada de Micos)

    View of a cascading waterfall in the mountains
    Micos waterfalls

    I loved the landscape of Micos: mountains, big trees, cute ducks, a taller waterfall on the left and the view of a wide main waterfall when you’re hanging out in the turquoise waters of the swimming area. The wide waterfall is the last one of seven cascade waterfalls that go down the mountain. 

    Video of Micos waterfalls

    Rappel and cliff-jumping at Micos Waterfalls: leap off 7 waterfalls and rappel on the side of Micos and Minas Viejas waterfalls for a full day of fun. Lunch and transport from Ciudad Valles included.
    Book this action-packed tour, with a rating of 5/5 based on more than 170 reviews.

    After a swim (you must rent a life jacket so bring cash) we strolled along the promenade that follows the creek enjoying the smaller cascades shaded by ferns and trees, with birds swimming and flying around.

    After we walked past the camping zones and the many food and craft stalls we found an exit that took us to a dirt road, leading to the main road (about a 500-metre walk). We got a shared white van taxi to Ciudad Valles, leaving us in the Centro. 

    General admission: MXN$ 100. During heavy rain periods, this site is closed.

    How to get to Micos Waterfalls from Ciudad Valles by Bus

    From the Transporte Vencedores station near the Eco Central Grande we took the bus to El Naranjo. Ask to be dropped at the Cascadas de Micos. The bus will stop in the middle of the road where you’ll find the hidden narrow stairs on the other side next to a huge pipe, going downhill.

    Steps in a staircase outdoors
    Find the narrow stairs under the pipe

    The bus trip takes around 45 minutes.



    The Surrealist Gardens of Xilitla (Jardín Escultórico Edward James, Las Pozas)

    An aerial view of a garden with sculptures in a dense jungle
    The Edward James Sculpture Gardens in Xilitla

    Imagine for seven seconds that you could walk through a garden imagined by Salvador Dalí. Well, you don’t have to imagine it anymore because Edward James already did that for you.

    James Edward was a rich Scottish artist and publisher who became a patron of the arts. He was friends with the darlings of the art and design world of the early 20th century: Dalí, Picasso, Elsa Schiaparelli, Magritte, Henry Moore, and the like.

    He was looking for the perfect space to immerse himself in writing when, while visiting some friends living in Cuernavaca, he travelled to Xilitla (pronounced “She-LEA-tlah”), in the beautiful Huasteca Potosina in the 1940s. 

    His search was over, he had found his Garden of Eden. 

    Thin concrete columns behind a bench surrounded by thick vegetation
    Take a seat and enjoy the view

    Along with Plutarco Gastélum, he built a garden that transports you to a tropical Salvador Dalí painting where nature reclaims unfinished concrete structures in the shape of swirling sculptures, covering them with green and orange patches and epitaphs.

    A concrete lattice with greenery behind
    I loved the orange patches in this Gothic style element

    For more than 30 years dozens of people from Xilitla worked in the construction of the arched, curvy architectural elements, and the floral motifs inspired by the rich landscape.

    A column with a floral motif
    A series of concrete curved arches in a garden
    A column in the shape of a cactus
    Nature-inspired shapes

    The surrealist gardens, which official name is Jardín Escultórico Edward James, Las Pozas, became a public space in 1991. A foundation under the name Fundación Pedro y Helena Hernández has worked the last couple of years to ensure the preservation of this treasure, declared a National Artistic Heritage of Mexico.

    Walk inside, around and on top of the small buildings for a surrealist experience where shape is king and function is relegated to keep the structure standing. This is all about fun, creativity, inspiration, and art. Logic can be left at the door.

    A surrealist looking 2-storey concrete structure in a jungle
    One of the most beautiful structures in the garden

    The trails in the property take you through lush vegetation, waterfalls, natural pools (pozas), and cascades springing from the mountains.

    An aerial view of stairs outdoors with a sculpture in a lush garden
    You’ll encounter sculptures along the trails
    A small cascade in a jungle
    One of the natural pools (Pozas)
    Woman in a garden with a concrete sculpture in the background
    I loved the view of the waterfalls from this beautiful terrace
    A tall waterfall in a jungles
    Relax next to the waterfall

    We visited during the slow season and there were only a handful of people on-site, but I’ve heard it can get so busy at other times that you can wait for hours. Also, for conservation purposes, there’s a daily visitor’s cap. Your best bet would be to reserve a timed ticket online.

    If you decide to take the risk you can purchase the tickets on-site (bring cash in case the system is down).

    You’ll find narrow passages with no railing in a hilly environment, and floors can be slippery. Bring shoes with some grip. 

    A narrow and steep staircase with no railing
    Wear grippy shoes!

    If you come during the summer the humidity is crazy, this is in the middle of a jungle. At other times it can be rainy, bring a poncho.

    When we went you could wander around on your own but unfortunately, that’s not allowed anymore. You must go on a 1.5-hour guided visit. Groups are limited to 25 people.

    There’s a cafe and a crafts store on site.

    How to get to Las Pozas in Xilitla from Ciudad Valles by Bus

    From the Central de Autobuses de Ciudad Valles take the Vencedor bus to the Xilitla station. The trip takes two hours, a beautiful ride through lush vegetation. Light rain and fog engulfed the mountain as we were approaching the town on the uphill, winding road.

    Once we arrived at the tiny bus station (it looks more like a storefront), we took a white taxi to the Sculpture Garden – Las Pozas. It’s about 10 minutes away. 

    Jardín Escultórico Edward James – Las Pozas
    Open Wed.to Mon.: 9AM-6PM.; Admission: MXN$150 p/p+ MXN$ 30 for the (mandatory) guided visit.


    Want to enjoy all this but have all planned for you (including stay)? Check this highly rated tour:

    3-day Adventure and Nature Tour in the Huasteca: do rafting in the river, rappel down waterfalls, birdwatching and visit the surrealist gardens. Includes 2 nights in a 4-star hotel, snacks, lunch, and breakfast.
    Book this adventure, with a rating of 4.9/5 based on more than 290 reviews.


    The Cave of Swallows (El Sótano de Las Golondrinas)

    The mouth of a pit cave
    The mouth of the pit cave

    See how thousands and thousands of birds do a choreographed dance before going to bed at one of the 13 natural wonders of Mexico.

    The Cave of Swallows is a 512 metre-deep pit cave in the mountains of the Sierra Madre Oriental and it’s the sixth deepest underground abyss in the world.

    You’ll start your journey with a view of the mountains, at the top of the neverending steps that take you down to the 55-metre diameter mouth of the cave.

    High view of a mountain
    View from the top of the stairs
    A staircase with people stepping down into a mountain
    Stairs leading to the lookouts

    On your way down, while you go past a gazillion vendors you’ll see the first lookout. 

    We stopped to take a look at the green parrots hanging around the niches in the rugged walls, covered by pockets of greenery.

    For an extra fee, a guy rudimentarily ties a rope around your waist (more of a formality rather than a real safety measure) so you can get closer to the edge to take a peek inside the cave.

    A partial look inside the mouth of a pit cave
    A peek inside the pit cave

    I wish I would’ve done that on the second lookout.

    Around 20 minutes after taking our first step and after finally leaving behind all the barrage of commercial stalls we reached the second lookout.

    As the sun started to go down we could see and hear birds here and there. And then more. And more, until they formed clouds.

    Birds populating the sky
    Birds start showing up at sunset

    At one point they started circling the sky in unison filling the air with a piercing sound before taking turns to dive inside the cave at a speed up to 110 km/h (70 miles/h). An unforgettable experience.

    Video of the Cave of Swallows

    Despite the name of the site, they’re not really swallows, but White-collared swifts. Someone confused them with swallows, the name stuck and I guess dealing with a name change is too messy.

    We visited at sunset when the birds returned to the cave. Before you go check sunset times according to the season so you don’t miss it. Remember to give yourself plenty of time to arrive at the lookout and grab a good spot. 

    Bring water and comfortable shoes. Once you’re done, there are 568 steps waiting for you on the way up.

    General admission: MXN$ 100 p/p

    Bonus Tips

    You can also visit when the birds leave the cave. Since they’re early risers you’ll need to be there at 6AM. Find out what time is sunrise when you’re there to be more precise and not miss the show. You may want to stay in Aquismón the night before and bring a flashlight with you. The steps get rougher as you approach the second lookout, it will be trickier when it’s dark.

    Check the weather forecast before planning your trip. I’m sure you prefer to stay in bed on rainy or cloudy days and so do the birds. They don’t leave the cave unless it’s sunny.

    How to Get to The Cave of Swallows from Ciudad Valles by Bus

    From the Central de Autobuses de Ciudad Valles we took the Vencedor bus to the town of Aquismón, leaving around 2:45PM.

    The bus goes to Tamazunchale, so you must get off at the Crucero de Aquismón (in Mexico, a crucero is an intersection). It takes around one hour to get there.

    At the intersection’s bus stop you can take a 5-minute cab ride to the zócalo (main square) in Aquismón.

    A traffic sign
    A bus or taxi stop
    The Aquismon intersection sign on the main road and the “Crucero” (bus/taxi stop)

    A note about the cabs in Mexican towns: most of them are shared taxis (colectivos). People wait at the stop and when the taxi arrives everybody tries to get in. We were waiting and then three more people showed up. The cab arrived, we got on the back seat and two more people squeezed in next to us. It was tight. Seat belts? What’s that?

    People pay less when they share the taxi so they don’t mind. If you’re at the stop by yourself when the car arrives and you don’t mind paying more you can ask the driver to take off. He may pick up someone else on the way.

    Once you arrive at the main square ask the taxis and vans around the square and compare prices for taking you up the mountain, waiting for you and taking you back. You may be in luck and find other people to share the vehicle with.

    Once you’re done they drop you at the crucero from where you can take the first bus to Ciudad Valles.


    How to get to the Huasteca Potosina (Ciudad Valles)

    By Air

    You can fly to the San Luis Potosí International Airport (SLP) directly from the United States (Houston, Dallas) and from major cities within Mexico (Mexico City, Puerto Vallarta, Cancun).

    If you want to take a bus from here to Ciudad Valles you can take a 20-minute taxi/Uber ride to the Terminal Terrestre Potosina (Bus station) and from there you can take a bus to Ciudad Valles. The trip can take between 3.25 hours to 4.5 hours depending on the bus line you choose (there are four lines with Omnibus de Oriente being the fastest), and departure times.

    By Bus

    You can take a Primera Plus or ETN bus (my preferred lines) from major nearby cities to the Terminal Terrestre Potosina (Bus station) in San Luis Potosí and from there take a bus to Ciudad Valles (3.25 hours to 4.5 hours depending on the bus line you choose and departure times).

    From Santiago de Queretaro: around three hours.

    From Mexico City (Terminal Norte): around five hours.

    From Guadalajara: around five hours.

    From San Miguel de Allende: around 2.5 hours.

    For costs and schedules check www.primeraplus.com.mx and/or www.etn.com.mx.

    For the second half of the trip, you can choose between four lines with different schedules, costs and trip duration (3.25 to 4.5 hours). Omnibus de Oriente is the fastest.


    You can have so much fun in the Huasteca region of San Luis de Potosí: jump in rivers of turquoise waters, visit stunning waterfalls, hike in the jungle, and even have an oniric experience walking through gardens conceived by a wildly imaginative mind.

    Share this post with someone who is planning a visit to Mexico or pin it to plan your own trip to this outdoor adventure mecca.


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    Check the full list of travel resources on my Resource Page for more options and savings

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    About Mayra Carvajal

    Hi, I’m Mayra. A full-time nomad with an appetite for travelling. Art and design are my salt and pepper, with a side order of nature and outdoors. When I’m not gazing at architecture or any other form of art, you’ll see me on a hiking trail, at the top of an ancient ruin, or under a beach umbrella. Here you’ll find practical tips for independent trips, travel stories, and images that may inspire you to explore a new place or high-five your creative muse. Read my About page if you want to learn more about how this site can help you travel more.

    Reader Interactions

    Comments

    1. Nathalie

      March 24, 2022 at 7:14 PM

      These places are so my kind of places! These natural escapes are life-giving!

      • Mayra Carvajal

        March 24, 2022 at 10:42 PM

        La Huasteca is full of life!

    2. Jeanine

      March 24, 2022 at 10:00 PM

      Oh dear those falls are absolutely spectacular, I think this spot will be added to the ‘DO’ list… not sure how to tell my husband LOL

      • Mayra Carvajal

        March 24, 2022 at 10:41 PM

        LOL! He’ll probably say “Let’s go!”

    3. Adriane

      March 26, 2022 at 11:27 PM

      These photos are amazing! We are going to Mexico this fall. I will have to check some of this out!

      • Mayra Carvajal

        March 27, 2022 at 1:56 AM

        Mexico is an awesome destination, either if you like the outdoors (mountains or beaches), arts, or architecture. Don’t miss Queretaro!

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