Every year something magical happens when millions of Monarch Butterflies fly to the mountains in Mexico’s Volcanic Axis. One of these places is the Piedra Herrada Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary in Valle de Bravo, a “Magic Town” in the state of Mexico.
Piedra Herrada is one of the Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserves, a little less known than the most famous site located in the state of Michoacan.
Valle de Bravo is two hours and change away from Mexico City, making it one of the best places to see Monarch butterflies if you’re staying there, as it’s an easy trip from Mexico’s capital.
You can do this trip on your own or you can take a tour from Mexico City.
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What is the Best Time to See the Monarch Butterflies in Mexico?
Like the snowbirds who flee the harsh Canadian winter to take refuge in their condos in Florida, Monarch butterflies escape the cold in The Great White North and the northern U.S. by flying to Mexico. They start their journey in October when temperature starts dropping, tune in their antennas and fly about 4,800 kilometres (3,000 miles) across North America, arriving in Central Mexico in November.
They’ll hibernate from November to early March, and then fly back north, on the east side.
For a chance to see greater numbers go between December and February, although late November is better to avoid the crowds (more on that later).
Within this window it’s of paramount importance that you check the weather forecast a day or two before scheduling your trip.
On a cold and cloudy day you’ll see nothing. When it’s cold the butterflies stay in clusters up in the trees to keep warm. Don’t waste your time and money because you’ll see nothing but clouds.
If it’s cold but sunny you’ll manage to see the clusters up there, but you won’t see a sky full of butterflies.
If it’s sunny and the temperature is at least 15ºC (60F), you’ll see the magic happen.
With the weather being so crazy lately you may experience a day above 15ºC in Valle de Bravo in January (don’t go too early in the day so it warms up), but you may stand a greater chance in December and February as January tends to be the coldest month in the northern hemisphere.
If possible, go on a weekday. The lines on weekends and holidays are insane.
What to Expect on a Tour to the Piedra Herrada Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary from Mexico City
We were staying in Mexico City during the Monarch butterfly migration so we decided to take a tour to visit the Piedra Herrada Sanctuary. The bus departed from the meeting point and around 2.5 hours later we were in the sanctuary.
Here are some tips to help you plan your visit:
-Check if the entrance to the sanctuary (MXN$100) is included in the price of the tour or not. -Bring cash as nobody accepts credit cards and there are no ATMs.
-Use the (paid) bathrooms before starting the 2-hour round trip+waiting time hike. You won’t find other bathrooms anywhere else in the property.
-If you didn’t bring water with you, get some at one of the food staples as you’ll need it on the way up.
-A guide from the sanctuary, different from the one you came with and whose fee should be included with the entrance (tips appreciated) will be assigned to the group. This is mandatory, you can’t hike on your own.
-The guide from the sanctuary may or may not speak English, even though you may have booked a tour with an English-speaking guide.
-Bring comfortable shoes adequate for hiking (no sandals), clothing that you don’t mind getting dirty, a light sweater, sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat.
-From the entrance to the top is a steep climb that takes at least one hour. It’s demanding, but you have the option of paying MXN$300 for a horse ride that will take you close to the site. You’ll still have to hike the last couple of hundred feet (around 15-20 minutes, on a steep incline).
-On a sunny and not so cold day you’ll start seeing butterflies here and there as you approach the site.
-We went on a weekend and the place was packed. There was a long line on the trail right before arriving at the final destination. But it’s fine since it’s a trail and you’re surrounded by trees and you see some butterflies.
-Once you make it up there it’s one of those unforgettable moments: you see the clusters of monarch butterflies resembling giant orange flowers in the trees, and swarms performing a colourful dance in the sky. Not only is the sight of the butterflies impressive, but the fact that you can actually hear them. There are so many that you can hear them!
-You’re allowed to stay up there for up to 15 minutes. Allegedly. But within five minutes tops I started hearing “AAAAVAANNCEEEN!!!!”. What? Already? One of the guys told me that if you go on a weekday they let you stay longer since it’s way less crowded. I wish I would’ve known that. I’m still happy we saw this marvel, but if I would do it again I would go on a Monday or Tuesday.
-After a one hour descent we had some time to wander around the stalls and check out the crafts for sale.
The rest of your day will vary depending on the tour you take. Most tours include a trip to the Bridal Veil falls and a stop in the lovely town of Valle de Bravo (the sanctuary is around 30 to 40 minutes from the town centre), with enough time to grab a bite, walk a little bit, and catch the sunset in the lake.
We liked it so much that we returned later in the year to spend a little bit over two weeks there and enjoy the other things to do in Valle de Bravo.
Private tours may have different activities to suit your preferences.
Going to the Piedra Herrada Sanctuary on Your Own
You don’t need to go on a tour to visit the sanctuary. We took a tour as we wanted to take it easy this time.
If you decide to go on your own you can rent a car in Mexico City (crazy traffic, leave early), drive to the sanctuary, and after you pay the entrance you’ll be paired with a guide.
Or you can hire a taxi to take you there and bring you back. I recommend you take a taxi de sitio, rather than hailing a cab on the street. A taxi de sitio has a taxi stand with a radio system where the dispatcher knows where everybody is. It adds an extra layer of safety.
Or you can take a bus to Valle de Bravo from Mexico City. You must be at the Terminal Poniente bus station (Observatorio subway station) before 7AM, get on the Zina bus, and then take a taxi to the sanctuary and have them wait for you (it’s in the middle of nowhere). I would do this option if I was staying overnight in Valle de Bravo.
Help the Monarch Butterflies
Something I’ve learned from reading the signs in the gardens I’ve visited is that due to the decline of milkweed population, the future of the Monarch Butterfly is in danger.
Monarchs only lay their eggs on milkweed, becoming the habitat and the only food source for the caterpillars. Milkweed has been disappearing due to deforestation and the use of herbicides in agriculture. Once milkweed is gone so will the Monarchs, and this magical experience.
Logging activity in Mexico, tagging the Oyamel fir tree forests where the butterflies hibernate, has also been a contributing factor.
Want to help Monarch butterflies? Plant some milkweed in your garden. This guide from the National Wildlife Federation is helpful to select the best species depending on where you live (some are not good). Remember that milkweed sap is toxic and should be planted in an area out of reach for pets and small children.
If you’re looking for an unforgettable experience, the Monarch butterfly migration is an event that will likely meet your expectations. Follow the tips I provide in this guide so you can better enjoy this wonder of nature. Share this post with a nature lover who wouldn’t want to miss a visit to the sanctuary.
BOOKING FLIGHTS AND ACCOMMODATIONS
Book your flight without losing your shirt
We check Momondo to find great deals to book our flights. Also, check Great Escape: it combines the listings from Expedia, Kiwi, Kayak, (and Skyscanner on the premium service) to find the best airfares.
To find a place to stay for less
Booking.com: you’ll find any type of property you can think of in their massive listing, with one of the most comprehensive filters. We’ve found great deals on boutique hotels, apartments, and private rooms in hostels.
Hotwire: the first site I check when we plan to stay at a hotel for a few nights. You can save anything from 20% to 60%. Use the search filter to find what you want and you’ll end up with three listings that match your criteria. You’ll know which one you’ll get after you book. If you can handle a little bit of uncertainty you can score big savings.
House Sitting: you take care of people’s pets and house for free while staying for free. It’s the closest thing to experiencing a place “like a local”. But it comes with responsibilities… Are you an animal lover? It may become your new way to travel.
To get travel insurance
SafetyWing: travel medical insurance that gives us peace of mind knowing that we’re covered in case of emergency. It’s convenient, affordable, and suitable for digital nomads who spend a long time outside their home country.
Check the full list of travel resources on my Resource Page for more options and savings