Welcome to Lake Skadar, the biggest lake in the Balkans, a national park and a protected area surrounded by mountains. It’s one of Europe’s largest bird reserves.
The lake is shared by Montenegro and Albania and it’s known as Lake Skadar (Skadarsko Jezero) in Montenegro, Lake Shkodra (Shkodër) in Albania, and Lake Scutari (its historical name).
I spent three days in Virpazar, the main town on the west coast, exploring the lake, sipping local wines, and relaxing surrounded by nature.
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Here’s how you can visit and what you can do at Lake Skadar National Park.
Table of Contents
Birdwatching on Lake Skadar
Lake Skadar was designated a Ramsar Site, meaning that it’s included in the list of Wetlands of International Importance and that it’s a conservation area with a rich biodiversity. It’s also a resting spot for migrating birds.
In brief, you’re going to see a lot of birds. About 280 species have been recorded, some unique to this region.
You may see the rare Dalmatian pelican, which is the symbol of the lake, and the beautiful Ferruginous duck. I saw Squacco Herons, pygmy cormorants, terns, ducks, and Gray herons.
The best way to watch as many birds as possible is to go on an early morning birding tour with a knowledgeable guide.
Early Morning Birdwatching and Photography Tour: board a traditional wooden boat that takes you to the best spots where birds hang out.
Take many pictures of many birds with this tour, with a 5-star rating based on more than 10 reviews
Kayaking on Lake Skadar
Renting a kayak is a great opportunity to glide on the water peacefully (especially through the canals) and at your own pace. We rented a 2-seat kayak and we loved that we were able to stop several times and relax looking at the reflection of the mountains on the water.
It was also great for getting close and taking pictures of water lilies and the birds around the marshes.
You can visit another Ramsar site in Montenegro by taking a trip to Ulcinj.
If you paddle further away you’ll also be able to access small beaches and take a dip in the lake.
Lake Skadar Boat Tours
Visiting Lake Skadar and not doing a boat tour is like visiting Tenerife and not going to Mount Teide.
It’s the best way to explore the lake and see the landscape further away from the shores (you can only go so far in a kayak) and find more birds.
Most tours stop at one or two historic sites. During our boat ride we visited the small Kom Monastery, built atop of a hill on an islet.
At the gate you’ll see a colourful mosaic on each side, the prelude to the beautiful and well-preserved frescoes adorning the walls of the tiny church, which dates back to the early 15th century.
You can also enjoy a panoramic view of the islet and the lake from the ample terrace and sample and buy wine or rakija made by the priest who lives there all by himself.
There are one-hour tours and half-day tours, depending how far they go and how many stops they make.
If you want a tour that takes you through the narrow and shallow canals formed by lily pads, where you can see lots of wildlife, go for the ones that use wooden fishermen’s boats as there the only ones that can navigate these areas.
Check out this option:
Guided panoramic boat tour to Kom Monastery: with several stops along the way to see wildlife, visit Fort Lesendro, wine tasting and swimming. Duration:3 hours.
Explore Lake Skadar with this tour, with a 4.7/5 rating based on more than 825 reviews.
Visit Lake Skadar from Kotor or Budva: short on time? Go on a boat ride on Lake Skadar as a leg of a full-day trip that includes stops at Cetinje and the Pavlova Strana viewpoint.
Take this day trip that includes Lake Skadar, with a 4.9/5 rating based on more than 65 reviews.
Hiking Around Lake Skadar
Hiking is another outdoor activity you can do around Lake Skadar, where you’ll find four trails of various lengths and difficulty.
Be aware that some sections may be unpassable at times as the water levels fluctuate depending on the season (its surface can be anywhere between 350 km² and 500 km²). It’s advisable that you stop at the Virpazar visitor centre for the most up-to-date information.
Prefer biking? No problem, you’ll find several trails to do that too.
Visit the Wineries Around Virpazar
The wine tradition in this region started centuries ago and it’s still alive today. You can visit several wineries during your stay and book wine tastings, which are paired with cheese and the local version of prosciutto, bread, and fruit. By the way, I’ve never tasted figs as sweet as the ones we tried in Virpazar.
I liked the wine (got a bottle!) and the detailed explanation about the area at Winery Cermeniza, owned by a family for generations and located within walking distance from town. They have a beautiful tasting room and great hospitality.
Another popular winery is Winery Kopitovic, a family business located less than 20 minutes by car from Virpazar.
The View and the Restaurant at Fortress Besac
In 1478 the Turks arrived in town and annexed the area (known as Donja Zeta -the lower valley of the Zeta state-) to the Ottoman Empire. To secure their new territory, they built Fortress Besac using local cut stone.
The small (I mean, tiny) fortification comprises a main defensive tower, which is the 2-storey rectangular building you can see in the picture, with tiny slits to fire cannons.
There is another circular tower on the other side of the rectangle. One of them is a well that supplied water to the soldiers while they watched with eagle eye any activity around the lake and the Crmnica field.
Two watchtowers ensured that everybody could see everything from every angle and use their rifles when necessary.
And… that’s pretty much it. Other than the historical significance, there’s not much more to it other than a restaurant and the views (hence the subtitle).
If you’re expecting a mega fortress you’ll be deeply disappointed, and the lake views aren’t significantly better than the ones you can see from the road.
Fortress Besac is only 15 minutes on foot from Virpazar, with awesome views along the way. There’s a nice restaurant on site that may make your trip worth it.
Entrance fee: €2
Virpazar: Lake Skadar’s Main Town
The main town around the lake is rather small. It’s more like “the biggest of the smaller”.
You’ll find a small square, a visitor centre, a small supermarket and a couple of restaurants where you can try the locally-caught bleak and carp fish, have some delicious fresh goat cheese, and of course the famous rakija (a strong brandy).
Virpazar is the main departure point of the tours that take you around the lake and where most accommodations are.
Where to Stay in Lake Skadar
Check out these accommodations around Virpazar:
Jocker Apartment: we stayed in this one-bedroom apartment for two nights. It’s literally a stone throw away from the town centre and it comes with a fully-equipped kitchen. It’s sparkling clean and the hospitality is superb, the hosts treated us like family.
Find rates and availability at Jocker, with a 9.9 rating based on more than 260 reviews.
Hotel De’Andros Virpazar: you prefer a hotel stay? This new, 4-star modern facility has spacious rooms, some with lake views and balconies. Breakfast is included.
Stay at Hotel De’Andros, with a 9.6 rating based on more than 135 reviews.
Lake Skadar National Park Entrance Fee
You must pay a fee of €5/day for anyone aged 15 and older in order to do any activity on the laken (as in the water). Note that the tours or kayak rental prices don’t include the fee, which you must pay before. If you’re going to visit the park more than once (or you’re going to other national parks) during your trip you can save money by buying a pass.
Best Time to Visit Lake Skadar
Anytime between late April and October is good. If you’re planning to swim on the lake you’re better off visiting in July and August (but you have to deal with more crowds).
If you like birding, spring and fall will be the best time.
How to Get to Lake Skadar
By Bus
There are buses that connect the town with major centres like Ulcinj, Bar and Podgorica, it’s a short trip. Visit busticket4.me for schedule and costs.
By Train
As soon as you see the train you’ll wonder if you went back in time in a split second. The train is old.Oooooold. But it still does the job of carrying you between Bar and Bijelo Poljem, making a stop in Virpazar. You pay the low fare on the train.
The tiny train station matches the train’s “look from another era” and it’s not right in town, but about a 15-minute walk away.
It’s better to take a taxi as soon as you arrive since, if you walk, part of the route is along a narrow highway with no pedestrian lane.
If you still want to go on foot, go north on the local road that goes through the small village until you end up on the highway. You’ll walk there for about two minutes and then you’ll take a dirt path to the right that will lead to Virpazar.
By Car
Unless you’re adding Lake Skadar as a stop on a road trip and there’s parking available where you’re staying, I don’t recommend you rent a car just to visit for a day.
Parking in town is non-existent. There’s a parking lot on road M2, right before Virpazar’s entrance, which fills up quickly.
When you park (for free), you’ll probably be swarmed by overly enthusiastic vendors yelling “Boat ride! Boat ride!”. They’re not from the tourism board and they’ll pressure you to book an overpriced boat tour.
Tell them that you already booked it and keep walking.
How Many Days in Lake Skadar
We spent three days here: enough to go on a boat, a kayak, visit wineries, do a little bit of hiking, try the local food, enjoy the view, and relax.
You could do it in two days (if you want to see birds you’ll need to wake up early the second day), but with a little bit less relaxation.
If you’re short on time and you just want to go on a boat cruise on the lake and have some wine after, you can visit Lake Skadar as a day trip from the Adriatic Coast or take a tour that stops here.
Lake Skadar National Park is a scenic spot in Montenegro where you can see nature, wildlife, historic sites, and toast to it with a bottle of local wine.
Want to see more pretty lakes? Head to northern Montenegro and visit the Black Lake in Durmitor National Park.
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