It was the early 1930s when famous travel writer Aldous Huxley saw Lake Atitlán in Guatemala. He was impressed: Wow, this is like Lake Como but with massive volcanos!
Rumour has it that explorer Alexander Humboldt said This is the most beautiful lake in the world. The rumour spread like whipped butter on a hot potato, but good luck trying to find any records that Alex actually stepped foot in Guatemala.
I don’t know if Lake Atitlán is the most beautiful lake in the world, but I know it’s among the top contenders for the title. The place has a distinctive look thanks to the conical shape of the volcanoes that mingle with the tree-covered hills overlooking the blue water. An image hard to forget.
But behind the idyllic appearance, there are some critical issues threatening paradise. Despite the problems -no place is perfect- this is still a beautiful destination worth visiting.
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Table of Contents
What Is Special About Lake Atitlán?
Lake Atitlán or Lago Atitlán (pronounced Ah-tea-TLHAN) formed thousands and thousands of years ago in the highlands of Southwest Guatemala when, after the mother of all eruptions, water filled the crater of what was the mother of all volcanoes. A volcano so big that the big surrounding volcanos you see today look like decorative meringues on a 7-layer cake.
The big crater gave way to a deep lake -the deepest in Central America- that extends almost 50 square miles, sitting about 5000 feet above sea level.
Three majestic volcanoes command the scene: San Pedro, Tolimán, and Atitlán.
Mayan villages settled on the slopes, establishing farms and thriving traditional arts and weaving communities.
Find out what to do (and what not to do) in Lake Atitlán
Explore the Towns Around Lake Atitlán
The towns on the shores of Lake Atitlán will give you different vibes and experiences. Whether you’re looking to relax, party, do art workshops, learn Spanish, or practice your downward dog pose and meditate all day, you’ll find a place in one of the 11 towns.
Split your stay among different towns or choose one and cruise around the lake by taking the local ferries or by booking a private boat excursion.
If you opt for the local ferries, make sure you’re on the right dock that will take you where you want to go (at the end of your ride you pay directly to the boat crew).
We wanted to stay in a centrally located, rather busy town so our two main options were San Pedro La Laguna and Panajachel (commonly referred to as Pana).
We learned that San Pedro was famous for being a party-loving backpacker’s destination, with bars and more bars (and Spanish schools). Not necessarily what we were looking for, so we opted to stay in Pana.
We found tons of cafes and restaurants and Spanish schools and stalls overflowing the sidewalk of Calle Santander (the main street) with trinkets. Not the most endearing town, but the most convenient as it’s the first major hub you hit from the road when you come from Antigua or from Guatemala City, with a big ferry dock to access other towns.
Sweet tooth alert: try the delicious desserts at Asawa-Ko cafe in Panajachel on Calle Santander (north of Calle 15 de Febrero).
Stroll the Gardens of Hotel Atitlán in Panajachel (and Stay for a Brunch with a View)
This beautiful hotel is like an art gallery with gorgeous botanical gardens and a fantastic view of the lake and the volcanoes.
Walk among a collection of roses, orchids, and many flowers surrounding ponds and fountains as you step on cute mosaic floor tiles. I loved all the statues and topiaries and arches that made the garden a true delight.
If you can’t get enough of the fantastic views (can’t blame you) sit on the lovely terrace for drinks, indulge on their famous breakfast buffet, or stay at Hotel Atitlan during your visit. We were in the area during the slow season so the brunch wasn’t on, but we were happy with the delicious a-la-carte breakfast with a view.
Take some time to walk around the lobby to see a sample of artwork from local artists, handmade rugs, and wall mosaics with handpainted tiles.
Hotel Atitlán is a 20-minute walk from the centre of Panajachel (if you don’t want to walk you can take a tuk-tuk).
Don’t miss the nearby nature reserve, within walking distance of the hotel.
Note: there is an entrance fee you pay at the reception but you can apply the amount towards food and drinks at the bar or restaurant. It’s totally worth it.
Hike the Trails of the Atitlán Nature Reserve (and See Wildlife)
This is one of the best outdoor things to do in Panajachel. The nature trails will take you through a lush landscape with waterfalls, hanging bridges, vines, an oak forest, and views of the lake with Volcanoes Atitlán and Tolimán in the distance.
You’ll have the chance to see rescued spider monkeys, rescued coatís playing in the open enclosure, and the ones roaming around the reserve. You may also see silver foxes, weasels, and many birds.
Check out the Butterfly Geodome (Mariposario) to see different species, including one of my favourites: the Glasswing butterfly with its transparent wings.
For some adrenaline rush check out other attractions such as ziplining, cable bikes, or the rope course.
The Atitlán Nature Reserve is within walking distance of Panajachel (15 to 30 minutes depending on where you’re staying), or a short tuk-tuk ride away. At the visitor centre they can call one for you when you leave).
The reserve also has a lodge where you can stay and a camping area.
Antigua Finca San Buenaventure; Open 8AM-5PM; No pets allowed; General admission: Q70 (Visa cards accepted).
Kayak or Stand Up Paddle on Lake Atitlán
Board a kayak or a SUP to enjoy the majestic views of the volcanoes from the water.
Rent the floating device of your preference hourly or join a guided tour and paddle from one town to the next until you’ve had enough. Most towns offer this attraction.
Take a Birding Tour
Birders, rejoice! This is your place.
More than 300 species of birds fly around Lake Atitlán, either as their permanent home or as a stop in their migration path. You may even see the spectacular Quetzal, the national bird of Guatemala, or the funny-looking Horned Guan.
Increase your chance to admire these and many other beautiful birds (owls, hummingbirds, hawks, pink-headed warblers) by booking a guided tour around the lake and nearby nature reserves.
Work on Your Yoga Poses (and See Cool Street Art) in San Marcos La Laguna
Not only this small village is the poster child for all things yoga, reiki, crystals, meditation, massage, Mayan and cacao ceremonies, and the likes, but it’s also a great place to see magically-inspired street art.
You’ll also find delicious vegan and vegetarian food. I liked Samsara’s Garden and I loved the restaurant at La Paz Hotel.
Enjoy the Views from the Cerro Tzankujil Nature Reserve in San Marcos
The short trails of the reserve cut through a tropical forest where you can see wildlife and the volcanoes towering over the lake.
You can also rent a kayak or test your braveness by jumping in the water from the high platform (but before you jump read the “What Not to Do section” below).
General admission: Q20; Open daily: 8AM-4PM
What Not To Do In Lake Atitlán
This is not a “Stay away from Lake Atitlán” section, it’s an “Enjoy Lake Atitlán, but take some precautions” list. Nearly every destination has some areas you should avoid or where you should be vigilant, and this is not the exception.
Don’t Hike to the Top of Volcano San Pedro Before Checking the Current Safety Status
Actually, if you want to err on the extra cautious side, don’t hike Volcano San Pedro far beyond the second mirador (viewpoint).
After having an amazing time at Volcano Pacaya near Antigua, going up a volcano with amazing views of the water looked like fun. But when I inquired about a guided hike at one of the tour agencies in Panajachel, instead of details regarding duration and costs I heard: Don’t do it, it’s not safe at this time.
This has been a recurring issue that worsens and improves over the years. These are not isolated incidents. The only isolated thing here is you being at the top of a volcano at the mercy of gangs armed with machetes and guns.
You’ll find blog posts and reviews from people who hiked to the top on their own and “felt very safe”, and fortunately didn’t encounter any problems (maybe the bad guys had too many beers the night before).
But you’ll also find articles on the local news about people who were robbed, even with a guide. Since police presence is limited to the lower sections of the trail, the attacks happen near the summit, above the campsite. The bandidos break in from the other side of the volcano, and ambush tourists at the top.
The “Don’t bring any valuables” tagline may save your phone and camera if you leave them behind, but it may not save your shoes.
You read that right. The gangs go as far as robbing people’s shoes. Descending on your socks doesn’t sound like fun.
It’s up to you if you want to risk it or not. Ask around before making a decision, search for the latest reports on the local news, and take it from there.
Admission fee: Q100.
Note: if you’re an advanced hiker you can give Volcano Atitlán a try. Robberies have happened here too, but it’s not as widespread as in Volcano San Pedro. The hike is more demanding as it’s the highest of the tree volcanoes (11598 feet) and it’s a steep climb (maybe the lazy bandidos don’t want to “work” that hard for their stash). Hiring a guide is recommended as it’s easy to get lost.
Don’t Swim in Lake Atitlán
The water may look somewhat clear (except when algae are blooming) the beaches may look tempting, and people seem to have the time of their life jumping in, but lake Atitlán is polluted with untreated wastewater pouring in from surrounding towns.
Add run-off water contaminated with fertilizers and pesticides from nearby farms and you have a pollution nightmare. There aren’t enough treatment plants and recurring maintenance issues have been in the news for years.
Can you swim in Lake Atitlán? Yes, you can, but I wouldn’t. You can argue that the lake is huge and deep and that somehow the crap dilutes. But it’s still crap and the test results on bacteria levels don’t lie. You decide.
Don’t Take the Roads Or Trails Between Towns Before Checking the Current Safety Status
Ask around for safety alerts and search the local news for recent gang activity on the road.
For years there have been robberies on the Lower Mayan Trail, from San Marcos to Santa Cruz. Hiring a local guide can add a layer of safety, but can do nothing if guns are pulled.
Local tourists travelling on the road from San Pedro La Laguna to Santiago Atitlán have been robbed by large groups of bandidos wearing masks and carrying machetes and firearms. They hide in the forest and after ambushing their victims they run up the mountain.
The situation can worsen or improve therefore it’s better to check the latest updates.
So, how do you explore Lake Atitlán? The best and safest way to explore the lake is by taking the ferry or kayaking between towns. This leads to the last “What Not to Do”.
Don’t Take the Last Ferry Between Towns
I was told by two locals to never take the last ferry because it’s normally packed above capacity. In Guatemala, safety measures are more of a suggestion rather than the law and from time to time you hear about boats capsizing and people drowning.
Lake Atitlán is big and when the wind picks up you can encounter some powerful waves turning upside down the small ferries.
How to Get to Lake Atitlán
From Antigua
We boarded a shared shuttle departing from one of Antigua’s tour agencies. Before hitting the road it spent around one hour picking up people from hotels around town. Then it took around two hours on a windy road to reach Panajachel.
Shuttles run around 3 to 4 times a day.
I don’t recommend you to take the “chicken bus” (school buses that look as if Elton John’s fashion designer decorated them) for such a long distance and on such a windy road.
You can also visit Lake Atitlán as a day trip from Antigua (although, if possible, stay at least three days).
From Guatemala City Airport
If you booked a hotel in Lake Atitlán, inquire if they have a shuttle.
Otherwise, you can board a shuttle from the airport that, unless you come in a group big enough to fill it, may go through Antigua, adding one hour and making the trip a good five hours.
Again, I don’t recommend the “chicken bus” for a long trip (even though it’s the cheapest option).
If you decide to take a taxi, only go with one from the official stand at the airport. You can also do Uber.
The landscape of Lake Atitlán will captivate you with its shiny blue water and its majestic volcanoes. Exploring the forests and the shores of the lake as you sail from town to town, or relaxing with a drink while enjoying the surroundings will enamour you as it has done for many.
What would be your not-to-miss thing to do in Lake Atitlán?
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BOOKING FLIGHTS AND ACCOMMODATIONS
Book your flight without losing your shirt
We check Momondo to find great deals to book our flights. Also, check Great Escape: it combines the listings from Expedia, Kiwi, Kayak, (and Skyscanner on the premium service) to find the best airfares.
To find a place to stay for less
Booking.com: you’ll find any type of property you can think of in their massive listing, with one of the most comprehensive filters. We’ve found great deals on boutique hotels, apartments, and private rooms in hostels.
Hotwire: the first site I check when we plan to stay at a hotel for a few nights. You can save anything from 20% to 60%. Use the search filter to find what you want and you’ll end up with three listings that match your criteria. You’ll know which one you’ll get after you book. If you can handle a little bit of uncertainty you can score big savings.
House Sitting: you take care of people’s pets and house for free while staying for free. It’s the closest thing to experiencing a place “like a local”. But it comes with responsibilities… Are you an animal lover? It may become your new way to travel.
To get travel insurance
SafetyWing: travel medical insurance that gives us peace of mind knowing that we’re covered in case of emergency. It’s convenient, affordable, and suitable for digital nomads who spend a long time outside their home country.
Check the full list of travel resources on my Resource Page for more options and savings
I love these pictures, great nature! I hope I will visit Guatemala one day with my kids. I want to show them as much as possible. Lake Atitlan seems like a wonderful place to explore.
If you love nature you’ll love Lake Atitlan.
Thank you for providing such in-depth and valuable information. I feel like, I went to Guatemala and was kept safe, through your post!
Stay safe!
It’s always good to know valuable safety tips! 🙂
I had been looking for such an article for a long time and today I found your article very interesting and full of detailed information. Thank you !
Glad you found it useful. Enjoy planning your trip.