Way before hikers would step on the Ladder of Kotor in pursuit of fabulous views, this historic path took battalions and traders up and down the mountain.
I hiked the entire trail, from Kotor to Road P1 and back. Here, I share with you what to expect, photos, tips, and a map with key points.
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This is how to hike to Ladder of Kotor trail
Table of Contents
Brief History of the Ladder of Kotor
When the Austrians occupied Montenegro back in the 19th century they needed a quicker way to go up the steep and rocky mountain to reach the village of Njeguši and the city of Cetinje (the former capital of Montenegro).
So they built this sinuous path to facilitate troops’ access to the heart of the country. It was also known as the Ladder of Cattaro since that was Kotor’s name back then.
Later, it became a trade route with mules carrying goods from the coast and ranchers herding livestock.
Today, even though you can still see some goats roaming around, it’s used as a recreational trail.
Ladder of Kotor Main Access Point
The main trailhead of the Ladder of Kotor is right north of Old Town Kotor.
If you’re coming from Old Town the closest exit to the trailhead is the River Gate. Cross the bridge until you hit the road (Tabačina St.), turn right, and keep walking alongside the Ṧkurda river bed towards the mountain.
A few minutes later you’ll see the first stone half walls built to make the switchbacks.
If you’re coming from the main road (E65/E80) make a turn on the road between the Voli supermarket and the Kamelija Shopping Centre (Tabačina St.) and keep walking towards the mountain.
Keep scrolling to see a map indicating the starting points, trailhead, and other key points.
Map of the Ladder of Kotor Trail
This interactive map (with a legend) indicates the starting points and walking paths (in blue) of key points along the trail:
- Starting points from Old Town and the main road to the trailheads (purple icons)
- Start and end of the Ladder of Kotor and scenic viewpoint (red icons)
- Start and end of the spur trail to cheese shop and Church of St. Juraj (green icons)
- Unofficial access point (light blue icon) to Kotor Fortress trail (orange icon)
- You can click on the map icons for a short description
The Trail
The Ladder of Kotor trail will take you up the mountain via 72 switchbacks with a gradual but steady elevation.
The route is quite easy to follow, with a rocky path that’s wide enough for two people and white and red trail blazes signaling the route.
The first section may be the least scenic, but it’s interesting seeing from below the retaining walls built about 200 years ago, looking like light gray ribbons embracing the hill. As we went up, we started seeing the town of Dobrota and the mountains across the bay, and a high view of the trail.
A few minutes later we could see the imposing walls that encircle Old Town Kotor and the Pestingrad peak high above on the hill to our left.
Views of the Vrmac ridge started to appear, with the coastal town of Prčanj at the foot and wider views of the Bay of Kotor.
We then encountered a herd of curious goats grazing on herbs and pomegranates.
As expected, the view keeps getting better as you climb up, the terrain gets rockier, and the incline steeper.
You’ll reach a point where you’ll have a good eye level view -at a distance- of the Kotor Fortress (St. John/San Giovanni Fortress/Castle).
A couple of switchbacks later you’ll see the fortress and the walls from above, with the majestic Vrmac ridge in the background and the coastal village of Muo on the left. This was my favourite viewpoint of the entire hike.
You’ll enjoy a wider panoramic view of the Kotor Bay from the point marked as “Scenic Viewpoint” on the map, which is the last of the consecutive switchbacks of the trail before you enter a long curve that will take you into a pine forest.
You’ll also have a great appreciation of the ribbon-like trail from above.
It took us about two hours to reach this point.
As you enter the long curve ahead the terrain gets even rockier until you cross the forest boundary, where you’ll find a trail junction.
As you can see from the picture above, you can connect with other trails and go all the way to Ivanova korita in Lovćen National Park, where you’ll find even more trails.
We followed the sign that reads Žanjev do, which leads to Road P1 where the Ladder of Kotor trail ends. From here, it will take about 50 minutes.
This is the steepest section of the trail and the only one that is shaded, unless you start hiking early in the morning.
There are pockets of view here and there, but you’ll be pretty much hiking between big old pine trees.
Once we reached P1 we took a few steps towards Restaurant Nevjesta Jadrana from where we delighted in this fantastic view of the top of the Vrmac ridge, the Luštica Peninsula and beyond, up to Herceg Novi.
We turned around and took the same trail back to Kotor.
Want more amazing hikes in Montenegro? Durmitor National Park is a great destination for hikers, with many beautiful mountain trails.
Book this hiking day trip, with a 5/5 rating based on more than 50 reviews.
The Spur Trail to St. Juraj Church (and Cheese Shop)
On the way back we took the spur trail that will drop you within seconds at the famous “Cheese Shop”, a café with a wonderful view.
This was a great spot to take a well-deserved rest with an ice-cold Nikšićko (a local beer), taste one of the freshest homemade goat cheese ever, and have a shot of rakja (a brandy) while enjoying the view from our table.
They also serve wine and cold drinks and, very important, they have clean bathrooms.
After some relaxing time, we continued along the spur trail towards what was the St. Juraj Church, surrounded by the abandoned village of Špiljari.
It’s worth stepping inside this cute, small, no-longer-working church to see traces of the frescoes on what’s left of the plaster on the walls and ceiling.
This valley is one of the points where you’ll clearly see why this country was named Montenegro (Black Mountain). Some sections of the surrounding mountain look as if tar would be dripping from its face.
When completing the loop you’ll enjoy a close view of the fortified walls surrounding Old Town Kotor.
From the church valley you’ll see the back of the St. John’s Fortress. If you follow a path going uphill towards the wall you’ll find an arched window that has been used to sneak into the Kotor Fortress for years (see map). This path allows you to connect to the Fortress trail and reach down to Kotor via the steps within the Old Town walls.
Check out my blog post about hiking to the Kotor Fortress to learn more about this trail.
At times, this access has been closed since it’s deemed illegal. You may or may not find it open.
If you decide to risk it and you’re able to climb up to the window, bring enough cash with you to pay the €15p/p entrance fee at the trailhead booth near the town as the guards will ask you for proof of payment to let you out. If you visit between October/November and March/April you won’t find any guards posted.
It’s also a great viewpoint to see from above the abandoned village and the church.
Otherwise, complete the spur trail loop and keep going down to Kotor the way you came.
Note: on Google Maps the “window” is labeled as “Ladder of Kotor”, as there used to be a makeshift wooden ladder to reach the window. The ladder is gone and the Ladder of Kotor is a different trail than the Kotor Fortress.
Trail length: 6.3 Kilometres (3.9 miles), one way.
Elevation gain: 914 metres (0.5 miles)
Level of difficulty: moderate
Estimated duration: the entire trail to P1 road takes 5-6 hours (round trip), partial route to Scenic Viewpoint takes 3-4 hours (round trip)
Cost: free
Tips to Hike the Ladder of Kotor
-The best time to do this hike is in the morning. Start early to take advantage of the shade cast by the mountain at this time of the day and to snap pictures of the bay without sun glare.
-Wear proper shoes, suitable for slopes covered with gravel and medium-sized rocks.
-Bring enough water and a hat, especially if you’re doing this hike in the summer as it gets hot. Unless you start early in the morning, only the last section is shaded.
-If you don’t have time/energy to do the entire route you can have a taxi drop you at the restaurant on P1 and hike the trail one way, downhill. If you have balance issues consider bringing hiking poles as the terrain is uneven.
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Ladder of Kotor vs. Kotor Fortress Trail
If you can do both, go ahead as they have a different feel and they both have great views.
If not, here are some tips that can help you decide:
Views: both have sweeping views of the bay and the Kotor walls. The Ladder has wider panoramic views of the Vrmac ridge and the entire Bay of Kotor thanks to its higher elevation. You’re out in the open and closer to the mountain so you can better appreciate its rugged landscape. The Fortress trail has better views of Old Town Kotor and closer views of the walls and its towers.
Duration: the Fortress trail is shorter, but you can do a partial hike (or one-way) of the Ladder.
Cost: the Ladder is free, the Fortress trail is €15p/p during high season and beginning/end of the shoulder season.
Difficulty: although longer (again, you can always hike only a portion), the Ladder is easier as it has a wider path with not-so-steep slopes (except for the very top section). The Fortress trail is nothing but narrow, mostly broken steps.
Features: even though both are historic hikes and both have an old church on the route, the Fortress trail has the “castle” and a better and closer view of the defensive wall structures. Be aware that the fortress is in ruins so keep your expectations low.
Popularity: you’ll find less people along the Ladder of Kotor. I suppose the Fortress trail is more crowded because it can be accessed from inside the Old Town and it’s shorter (tons of people visit it during cruise ship days).
Facilities: on the Ladder you can stop at the Cheese Shop and sit down with a view to have a drink and some cheese and have access to a bathroom. There are no facilities along the Fortress trail.
Where to Stay in Kotor
Kotor Central Point: these well-equipped, renovated apartments with terrace/balcony, AC, kitchen, and washing machine, are located right on the road leading to the trailhead. No elevator.
Check rates at Central Point, with a rating of 9.5/10 based on more than 145 reviews.
Hotel Vardar: this 4-star hotel is a good option to stay inside Old Town Kotor. Rooms have AC, flat-screen TV, a mini bar, a desk and a sitting area. Breakfast buffet included.
Stay here in Old Town, with a rating of 9.1/10 based on more than 865 reviews.
Palma Apartments: located in Dobrota, a short walk away from Kotor’s centre, these units have a balcony or terrace with seating area,T.V., and a kitchenette.
Check availability at Palma, with a rating of 9.3/10 based on more than 210 reviews.
The Ladder of Kotor is one of the best things to do when visiting Kotor. This hike along a historic trail will reward you with amazing views of the bay of Kotor.
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