The tiny island of Holbox (pronounced hol-BOSH), in Mexico, is a sandy paradise painted in shades of turquoise with crystal clear waters washing the shore.
It’s located on the north side of Quintana Roo, the same state as Cancún and Playa del Carmen, but the vibe here is totally different. No wall-to-wall high-rise mammoths of all-inclusive resorts and malls, but a laid-back vibe and town-ish feel.
An environment perfect for relaxing and doing nothing where you’ll also find many activities to enjoy the fabulous environment.
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This is why you need to discover this paradisiac beach destination on the coast of Mexico.
Table of Contents
Beautiful Playa Grande
Playa Grande is the main beach in Holbox and it’s fabulous. Ideal for long walks and relaxing swims in shallow waters where you can see every little detail of the soft sandbed.
At low tide, you can walk on the sandbanks towards Punto Mosquito but you can’t go all the way there since it’s a nature reserve. Bring a hat and sunscreen, it’s a long walk (better do it in the morning and check the tides).
Talking about mosquitoes: there’s plenty of that. Don’t forget your insect repellent.
Or fly a kite. Or just do nothing. It’s the perfect place for doing nothing.
Amazing Sunsets
One of the best things to do in Holbox is staying at the beach to see the out-of-this-world sunsets. You’ll have an uninterrupted view of the symphony of reds, oranges, and yellows.
Before, you had the chance to enjoy the show from the comfort of the famous beach hammocks hanging from poles spelling Holbox. But the number one Instagram prop on the island is gone for good. The government cited alteration of the environment as the reason.
Great Bird Watching
Holbox is an important nature reserve offering plenty of opportunities to see birds. American flamingos, white-tailed hawks, least terns, roseate spoonbills, and Bare-throated tiger herons are some of the species you can see here.
You’ll be able to spot some right on the beach. You can also take a birdwatching tour to more remote sites on the island where you’ll see more concentration of birds.
Swimming with Whale Sharks
This is a biggie here but you have to come at the right time.
However…the first time that swimming with whale sharks was on my radar I was staying in Playa del Carmen. There were signs everywhere about this activity and I asked a tour operator about boat trips from Playa to Holbox.
He warned me that sharks had not shown up in the last three days so he couldn’t guarantee that I would see one. I decided to skip it.
The second time, I stayed in Holbox overnight, but it wasn’t during whale shark season.
If this is at the top of your list make sure to visit between mid-May to September. And remember that whale sharks don’t punch clocks; you may or may not see it.
Still on my bucket list.
Fun Water Activities
There are several options to explore the beautiful waters of Holbox beyond the beach. Kayaking tours around the reserve are very popular, especially the bioluminescence tour at night to see how organisms glow in the dark.
You can also do kiteboarding, kitesurfing, SUP (Stand Up Paddleboard), sail in a catamaran, or rent a boat to see crocodiles and monkeys.
The Street Art
Walk along the sand streets of this colourful town to see the fantastic street art waiting for you around every corner.
The Local Food
There are many places to enjoy traditional Mexican food, especially seafood specialties. One street food you must try is the marquesitas, sort of a crunchy crepe filled with grated Edam cheese and cajeta (goat milk candy) or jam. So good!!
Things You Should Know About Holbox
– The streets are not paved, it’s sand. It’s lovely, but messy when it rains and even messier with the potholes so leave your nice shoes at home.
– You won’t see many cars in town. People move on golf carts that you can rent daily or by the hour (or golf cart taxis), or like we did: on our own two feet. Keep in mind that golf carts aren’t allowed on the beach.
-Sargassum: the word no one wants to hear when planning a beach vacation, but it can’t be ignored. The smelly brown algae has become a serious issue in the Caribbean because the volume is higher than normal and it’s showing up outside the usual season (November to April). There’s no way around that.
When we visited, some areas were clean and it was nice to get in the water, but other spots…well, see below…
-Bring cash: not all establishments take credit cards or sometimes the system is down and the few ATMs in town are famous for running out of cash or being out of service.
Holbox vs. Isla Mujeres
If you’re looking for relaxation, a small-town vibe, hippy-ish style, and a change of pace from Cancún, Holbox is your place.
However, it’s farther away from Cancún and, unless you do a one-day boat trip, you’ll be on the road too long and you won’t have enough time to relax, which defeats the whole purpose of choosing Holbox over Isla Mujeres.
If your time and budget allow, spend a night or two in Holbox.
A day trip is all you have time for? Then I would go to Isla Mujeres. It’s not that unique (and way busier than Holbox), but it’s an easy and short trip from Cancún and you can walk from the ferry station to the gorgeous Playa Centro.
How to Get to Holbox
By Boat
Once you get to the port of Chiquilá (more on that below) you can board a ferry that will take you to Holbox. There’s a boat departing every 30 minutes on the hour, from 5AM to 8:30PM, weather permitting (seasonal schedule may vary).
Ticket cost: around MXN$ 220 (one way).
Once you get to the island you can take a taxi to your hotel or you can walk if it’s nearby. This is easier to do if you have a backpack rather than a suitcase (sand streets, remember?).
You can also take a boat day trip to Holbox from Cancun, Playa del Carmen, or Isla Mujeres.
Buses to the Port of Chiquilá
We hopped on the ADO bus from the Cancún bus station to the port of Chiquilá from where we boarded the ferry to the island.
This is a 2-hour and 20-minute trip that ended up being a 3.5-hour trip as we found a road blockage organized by locals from a nearby town, protesting for better conditions.
If you’re staying in Playa del Carmen you can take the ADO bus to Cancun and then take the bus to Chiquilá. This will add 1.25 hours to your trip.
If you’re going from the Cancún airport straight to Holbox, you can take the ADO bus from the airport to the Cancún bus station and from there take the bus to Chiquilá.
The options above are the cheapest (the ADO buses are comfortable), but you can also take a taxi or even an air taxi if you have around US$1,000 to spare.
For costs and schedules check www.ado.com.mx
Holbox is an island to have a beach experience at a slower pace, see wildlife, and get away from the typical big hotel setting. Spend a few days here and explore the other side of the Mexican Caribbean.
BOOKING FLIGHTS AND ACCOMMODATIONS
Book your flight without losing your shirt
We check Momondo to find great deals to book our flights. Also, check Great Escape: it combines the listings from Expedia, Kiwi, Kayak, (and Skyscanner on the premium service) to find the best airfares.
To find a place to stay for less
Booking.com: you’ll find any type of property you can think of in their massive listing, with one of the most comprehensive filters. We’ve found great deals on boutique hotels, apartments, and private rooms in hostels.
Hotwire: the first site I check when we plan to stay at a hotel for a few nights. You can save anything from 20% to 60%. Use the search filter to find what you want and you’ll end up with three listings that match your criteria. You’ll know which one you’ll get after you book. If you can handle a little bit of uncertainty you can score big savings.
House Sitting: you take care of people’s pets and house for free while staying for free. It’s the closest thing to experiencing a place “like a local”. But it comes with responsibilities… Are you an animal lover? It may become your new way to travel.
To get travel insurance
SafetyWing: travel medical insurance that gives us peace of mind knowing that we’re covered in case of emergency. It’s convenient, affordable, and suitable for digital nomads who spend a long time outside their home country.
Check the full list of travel resources on my Resource Page for more options and savings
W.Santiago
I studied in México but I haven’t heard of Holbox before. I love the street art that you shared. Now I’m curious, I will have to visit. Thanks!
Mayra Carvajal
Holbox is not as known as Cancun and Playa del Carmen, but it’s easy to plan an overnight trip there.
JJ Jordan
Oh wow, this looks like paradise! I love the street art too! Swimming with whale sharks is on my bucket list so hopefully I can visit one day
Mayra Carvajal
Whale sharks+street art=guaranteed happiness!
Charlie-Elizabeth Nadeau
What a fun adventure this sounds like! The street art is beautiful, what talent and smart what to bring culture to all surfaces. Thank you for sharing your learnt insights and giving tips along the way. I love Mexico but hadn’t heard of this location before. So interesting to discover new areas and the beaches just wow!
Mayra Carvajal
Glad to add another destination to your “Must visit” in Mexico!
Vi-Zanne Ho
Our family loves to travel, but we haven’t done much travelling since the pandemic started. We haven’t been to Mexico, but this place sounds amazing and very relaxing! I think my kids would love it as well. Thanks for sharing this post!
Mayra Carvajal
You’re welcome! Thanks for reading. Can’t get more relaxing than the tiny and lovely island of Holbox.