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    Hiking on Saba: Your Guide to 17 Stunning Trails

    By Mayra Carvajal

    Saba is one of the best hiking destinations in the Caribbean. Nearly all the hiking trails do a wonderful job at fulfilling the promise of an unforgettable view thanks to the island’s steep hills.

    Despite being only five square miles, there are nearly 20 trails to choose from. You can wander through a dry scrub vegetation, a dry tropical forest, a lush tropical rainforest, and a dreamy cloud forest on the same day. 

    The hiking trails on Saba are part of its history: they were the only connection between the island villages up to the mid-20th century before the construction of The Road.

    I hiked all the trails I list here and I can attest that Saba is a hiker’s paradise.

    Disclosure: This post contains some affiliate links. If you make a purchase through those links I will earn a commission at no additional cost to you (zero, nada). To check the full disclaimer, click here.

    This is your guide to the hiking trails on Saba island, listed by level of difficulty.

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    HIKING TRAILS ON SABA WITH HIKING DIFFICULTY: EASY

    Table of Contents

    • Flat Point Loop (Tide Pools)
    • Dancing Place Trail 
    • Mas’Cohone’s Trail 
    • Bottom Mountain Trail 
    • Crispeen Track 
    • Bud’s Mountain Trail  
    • Tara’s Ground Trail (Easy to Moderate)
    • Sulfur Mine Trail 
    • The Ladder 
    • Sandy Cruz Trail 
    • Parish Hill Trail 
    • Mount Scenery Trail  
    • Elfin Forest Trail 
    • All Too Far Trail  
    • Giles Quarter Trail 
    • Mary’s Point Trail  
    • Spring Bay Heritage Trail  
    • Safety Tips for Hiking in Saba

    Flat Point Loop (Tide Pools)

    Mayra sitting on a lava rock formation next to the sea
    Flat Point Loop

    The barren landscape of Flat Point is a great location to watch seabirds, with many Magnificent Frigatebirds and Brown Booby birds flying around, and the silhouette of Old Booby Hill and St Eustatius in the background.

    View of hills covered in dry vegetation in the background and lava rock formations in the foreground next to the sea
    View of Old Booby Hill and Spring Bay from Flat Point Loop

    In the first section of the trail you’ll walk on a grassy meadow where you’ll see the ruins of an old indigo boiling house.

    A grassy meadow
    The first section of the Flat Point Loop
    Ruins formed by heaped stones in a grassy meadow
    The remains of an indigo boiling house

    Once you reach the fork, the landscape switches to reddish gray heaps of solidified lava that made me feel as if I landed on a strange planet. But no, it’s the spills of the dormant volcano where Saba exists.

    The spikey lava rocks are home to a few cacti. Follow the orange-yellow marks and make your way down the steep, rough terrain to get close to the tide pools. You’ll do much better wearing sport sandals rather than flip flops.

    Depending on the temperament of the sea you can find a shallow, rather flat pool that will allow you to get a little closer and spot marine life. I saw brain coral, lesser starlet coral, sea urchins, sea anemones, hydroids, Striped Parrotfish (juvenile), Fuzzy Chitons and Sergeant Majors. 

    Mayra standing next to a flat ocean pool within spikey lava rocks next to the sea
    The Tidal Pools
    A rocky bottom with brain coral, anemones and tiny fish
    Get close to see coral and tiny fish

    Or, you can find big waves crashing and a dangerous riptide, in which case it’s better to enjoy the show sitting from a safe distance and find odd shapes in the lava formations.

    Let’s remember that corals are fragile animals and touching them or standing on them may kill them. Once they’re gone, so are the fish.

    To visit Flat Point and the Tide Pools take the road to the airport and keep driving down a few feet until you see the trailhead sign on the left (before you reach Cove Bay).

    Distance: 0.58 kms/0.36 miles
    Estimated time: 30 minutes


    Dancing Place Trail 

    A concrete path along a stone wall on the right and greenery on the right
    Take an easy walk along the Dancing Place Trail

    This short trail offers an easy way  to enjoy a bird’s eye view of the hills on the south side of Saba. Way easier than tackling the Giles Quarter Trail, which you can access from this trail, to go down to the coast.

    Mayra standing on a trail on Saba with views of a ridge leading to the ocean
    The view from the Dancing Place Trail

    The Dancing Place trail runs parallel to a short section of The Road (Saba’s main road) between Windwardside and St. John’s. You’ll see the you-blink-you-miss-it trailhead sign on the steps leading down to the trail, next to the “Welcome to Windwardside” sign. 

    Distance: 0.4 kms/0.25 miles
    Estimated time: 20 minutes one way


    Mas’Cohone’s Trail 

    A hiking trail through a tropical forest
    The Mas’Cohone’s Trail

    The Mas’Cohone’s Trail shares the trailhead and most of its route with the lower section of the Mount Scenery trail, until you reach a sign on the left indicating the short path towards the viewpoint.

    Before that sign, the uphill trail consists of uneven stairs shaded by a dense forest (it will be slippery with rain) and a few sections with a dirt path.

    You’ll then scramble through the short rocky path that ends at a huge boulder from where you’ll enjoy one of the best views of Windwardside, with Old Booby Hill in the distance.

    A man standing on a trail with big rocks and elephant ears growing in a tropical forest environment
    Climb on the big rocks leading to the viewpoint
    Mayra at a viewpoint looking into a small village in a mountain and the ocean in the distance
    The fabulous scenery from the Mas’Cohone’s viewpoint

    This is a good alternative if you can’t make it all the way up to Mount Scenery. For an even shorter access, you can make your way down here from the end of Mountain Road.

    Distance: 0.48 kms/0.30 miles
    Estimated time: 20 minutes one way (shorter if you access from the end of Mountain Road).


    HIKING TRAILS ON SABA WITH HIKING DIFFICULTY: MODERATE

    Bottom Mountain Trail 

    A trail on a rocky hill covered with leaves with tall trees and huge elephant ears
    The Bottom Mountain trailhead on Troy Hill

    We started hiking the Bottom Mountain trail from the trailhead located near the Queen’s Gardens Hotel on Troy Hill, north of The Bottom. From there, we connected to Crispeen Track and ended up at the end of Mountain Road.

    The first section was the most challenging (and fun) as the ascent is quite steep and I had to pull myself up using the on-site ropes and hanging on to roots and thick branches.

    A man standing on an steep dirt path with ropes in a tropical forest environment
    A steep section of the Bottom Mountain Trail

    As you follow the yellow markers, turn around from time to time to enjoy panoramic views of The Bottom. 

    We went from a secondary forest to a rainforest walking past Heliconias, Elephant Ears, ferns, palms and banana trees.

    A large yellow heliconia growing on the side of a trail
    Beautiful heliconias add bright colours to the trail
    A trail with a rocky path flanked by elephant ears and banana trees with a green mountain in the distance
    Enjoy a hike in the rainforest
    Shell Ginger with abundant white bulbs and bright pink tps
    Shell Ginger along the Bottom Mountain trail

    Some sections of the Bottom Mountain trail go through farm lands.

    Distance: 1.1 kms/0.68 miles
    Estimated time: 1.5 hours one way


    Crispeen Track 

    A dirt path with rocks with tall trees and elephant ears with a distant view of the ocean
    Crispeen Track takes you through a secondary forest

    We accessed Crispeen Track from the end of Mountain Road, but you can also access it from the Mount Scenery steps about 20 minutes on your way up from Windwardside. As you hike down towards The Bottom, where the trail ends, you’ll hike from a secondary forest to a dry forest.

    At some point you’ll see remains of the old steps and stone walls marking the path Sabans used for travelling between the villages. This trail offers a great viewpoint of The Road with St. Eustatius in the distance, and of St. John’s and The Bottom.

    A dirt path along a trail shaded by trees with an old stone wall on the right
    Remains of the old “road” that connected The Bottom

    Crispeen Track connects with the Tara Ground trail, the Bud’s Mountain trail and the Bottom Mountain trail, which you could all do easily in one hike.

    Distance: 0.91 kms/0.56 miles
    Estimated time: 1 hour


    Bud’s Mountain Trail  

    A grassy trailhead on a lush rainforest with tall palm trees and a sign saying "Bud's Mountain"
    Access to the Bud’s Mountain trail from the Mount Scenery trail

    Bud’s Mountain trail connects the Mount Scenery trail with Crispeen Track, taking you through a secondary rainforest. The second time we went up Mount Scenery we took this trail on our way down (access is across the first shelter on your descent) to give our knees a break and then turned left at Crispeen Track.

    The upper section is beautiful and lush, as if you would be in elephant ear land adorned with Lobsterclaws. It’s also muddy as you’re still surrounded by clouds. As you go down, you’ll find some openings and open fields with ocean views. 

    A man hiking through a dirt path in a mountain with huge elephant ears on each side
    Bud’s Mountain takes you through a rainforest
    An ocean view from a trail behind the slope of a verdant hill
    Sea view from Bud’s Mountain as you reach Crispeen Track

    Distance: 1.47 kms/0.91 miles
    Estimated time: 1.5 hours (starting at Crispeen Track)


    Tara’s Ground Trail (Easy to Moderate)

    A man hiking along the narrow edge of a trail on a shaded hill with tropical vegetation
    Tara’s Ground Trail

    Of all these short interconnected paths, Tara’s Ground Trail is my favourite. It’s a beautiful hike through a mature secondary forest that connects the Bottom Mountain trail (a rainforest environment) to Crispeen Track (a dry forest).

    Follow the orange marks as you balance on big rocks, under a canopy formed by mature trees with long hanging vines. Remains of abandoned farms gave me a “tropical forest with ancient ruins” kind of vibe. 

    A man hiking a trail with big rocks under the shade of tall trees and standing next to an old stone wall
    I loved this section of Tara’s Ground

    Distance: 0.69 kms/0.43 miles
    Estimated time: 45 minutes one way from the junction with the other trails


    Sulfur Mine Trail 

    A rugged coastline with a hill descending into the ocean and a landing strip at the end
    Check out the views of the coastline and the airport from the Sulfur Mine Trail

    The Sulfur Mine trail is an excellent location for bird watching if you want to spot seabirds. It also offers a view of Saba’s famous airport runway and the waves crashing against Green Island (more like Green Rock) – a breeding ground for several species during late spring- and The Pirate Cliffs, where birds hang out.

    If you access the Sulfur Mine trail from the end of the side road off Airport Road (on Lower’s Hell Gate) you’ll go down a narrow path through a dry forest before you reach a big grassy meadow and a killer view. I only saw grass on my second visit, though. The first time I hiked this trail there was a severe drought and the grass was gone, leaving only rocks. 

    A man walking downhill on a trail in a dry forest environment with trees
    We accessed the trail from Lower Hell’s Gate (Zion’s Hill)
    A grassy meadow sloping down to an ocean cliff and a tiny island to the right
    I was glad to see grass the second time. You can see Green Island (and birds) to the right.

    Like many hiking trails on Saba, the Sulfur Mine comes with a dose of history. 

    This is the location of the McNish Sulfur Mine, an abandoned mine from the 19th century that may be explored at times with a Saba Conservation Foundation certified guide. Check at the Trail Shop if this option is available when you visit as the temperature and humidity inside the mine, in addition to the fumes, can be suffocating.

    An entrance to a mine on a rocky slope
    The entrance to the abandoned sulfur mine

    Years ago a group of tourists got lost inside and stumbled upon the mummified body of another tourist who died exploring the mine on his own a year before. Don’t risk it.

    What you can see is the remains of the old sulfur oven near the cliff.

    The remains of a stone oven along the edge of a cliff with an ocean view
    What’s left of the sulfur mine oven

    You can access the Sulfur Mine trail from the road that connects Upper Hell’s Gate (Zion’s Hill) with the airport. From Lower Hell’s Gate, take the second left after you drive past the Queen of the Holy Rosary Church. The trailhead is at the end of the road.

    You can also access the trail by turning right at the end of the All Too Far trail, which springs from the Sandy Cruz trail (will take you way longer).

    Distance: 0.51 kms/0.32 miles
    Estimated time: 40 minutes one way


    The Ladder 

    A man on a concrete stair built on a hill going down to the sea with trees on the sides
    The Ladder takes you down to the sea

    The extraordinary sunset view from The Ladder is one of the main features of this trail, which is, as you can expect from its name, all steps. 800 of them.

    View of a sunset over the sea with some branches in the foreground
    Enjoy the sunset from The Ladder
    A rocky coastline with towering cliffs over the sea
    Great views of the cliffs

    But it’s not all sunset and pretty views of Great Hill. The Ladder is an important piece of Saba’s history.

    Before Fort Bay, The Road, and donkeys, porters had to carry all the goods shipped to the island from Ladder Bay, step by step, up to the Customs’ House located at the top.

    And before the ladder, stuff had to be carried uphill on a steep dirt path.

    After I made it all the way down, scrambling over the broken steps at the bottom to see the waves crashing, I tried to imagine how challenging it must have been to unload a ship in this rocky coastline a century ago.

    On my way up, as I started to feel the burn in my legs, I couldn’t imagine doing this carrying boxes of food and clothing, furniture, and even pianos. Suddenly, the burn didn’t feel that bad.

    A man climbing up concrete steps flanked by trees
    Going up The Ladder

    The Ladder is another good point for birdwatching, where you can spot seabirds passing by, brown-throated parakeets flying around mahogany and cinnamon trees and gorgeous Poinciana trees. You may even see red-tailed hawks.

    Access to The Ladder is at The Bottom, driving past the Hospital towards Well’s Bay. Go left at the fork and within a few feet down the road you’ll see the sign for the trail on the left.

    Distance: 0.43 kms/0.27 miles
    Estimated time: 1 hour round trip


    Bonus tip: if you visit Saba during a festival you may be able to participate in guided hikes as part of the scheduled activities. Otherwise, guided hikes are available throughout the year with SCF certified guide, James “Crocodile” Johnson. You can contact the Saba Conservation Foundation at +599.416.3295, or you can visit the Trail Shop.


    HIKING TRAILS ON SABA WITH HIKING DIFFICULTY: MODERATE TO STRENUOUS

    Sandy Cruz Trail 

    A man going up a trail on a rocky path with tall palm trees with vines and ferns covering the hills
    The Sandy Cruz trail: one of my top two

    The scenic views of the north coast of Saba and the beauty of the rainforest made Sandy Cruz my favourite trail, neck to neck with the Elfin Forest trail.

    Walls of elephant ears, long vines, and a tightly knitted tree canopy with tree ferns that look like green fireworks made me feel like I was on a wild expedition.

    A view of tall tree ferns in a forest from below
    Huge tree ferns look like green fireworks

    We started the hike from the trailhead located at the end of the higher road in Upper Hell’s Gate (Zion’s Hill) and finished in Troy Hill. 

    When you enter the rainforest you step into a narrow path that hugs the fern-covered hill on your left and a steep slope on your right. It’s green everywhere, with moss covering the rocks on the ground, making it slippery.

    A man on a trail with a wall of ferns on the left and a cliff on the right
    Ferns galore along the Sandy Cruz trail

    Soon you’ll enjoy the ocean views, with a glimpse of Saba’s airport, and the silhouette of Sint Maarten in the distance. Stop at the Scott E. Keatly bench and pinch yourself. Yes, you’re in paradise.

    A man sitting on a bench looking towards the ocean with elephant ears in the foreground
    The first viewpoint along the Sandy Cruz trail

    We kept ascending and descending along the Mountain Cabbage forest until I saw a hermit crab. How the heck this little guy climbed 550 metres is something I can’t comprehend. That’s what I call determination.

    A man on an upward trail with big palm leaves, banana trees and elephant ears
    The forest grows more dense as you walk farther
    A hermit crab on a trail
    A determined hermit crab
    A trail in a tropical rainforest with ferns and palms and moss-covered rocks
    You’ll hike through rocky paths

    Delight on the heliconias, Eucharis lilies, and Star of Bethlehem on the side of the trail and look up at the epiphytes in search of Eyelash and Christmas orchids. 

    A white flower bulb with light green centre
    Eucharis lilies I found along the trail
    Epiphytes plants growing on tree branches
    Look up for epiphytes and you may see orchids

    Around the middle of the hike you’ll walk through a banana plantation (it’s private land so the bananas should stay on the trees) before entering a secondary rainforest that goes through abandoned farms.

    A man hiking along a trail with enormous trees in a tropical forest
    You’ll walk among larger-than-life trees
    A man sitting at the edge of a trail looking at the mountain covered with tropical forest trees and vegetation
    Pause along the trail and enjoy the scenery

    Once you reach Carla’s bench, from where you’ll see Torrens Point,  you’re on the last leg of the hike.

    Aerial view of a cliff that curves and descends into the ocean
    View of Torrens Point from the Sandy Cruz trail

    From Troy Hill you’ll have a panoramic view of The Bottom, framed by Thai’s Hill and Parish Hill.

    Hiking sticks will make your life easier as some sections are muddy and steep.

    Distance: 2.86 kms/1.78 miles
    Estimated time: 2.5 hours one way (add 30 minutes if you access from Troy Hill)


    Parish Hill Trail 

    A man on a trail in a mountain with aloe plants flanking the trail
    The Parish Hill trail

    The Parish Hill trail circles a volcanic dome covered in dry tropical forest from where you’ll see The Bottom and pockets of sea views facing south and west.

    You’ll gain most of the elevation during the first section, which is mainly loose rock showing signs of erosion. As you go up and you pass the big rocks the terrain is a little bit more compact and the path is flanked by trees, cacti, aloe plants and (I think) bromeliads. 

    A man standing on a path with big rocks surrounded by leafy trees
    The rocky path along the Parish Hill Trail
    Mayra standing in a rocky trail flanked by leafy trees and bromeliads
    You can see bromeliads along this trail

    Look back to enjoy the sea view framed by the hills.

    Green hills in a saddle shape with the sea in the background
    Sea views from Parish Hill trail

    We followed the map and started doing the inner loop of Parish Hill, but halfway we had to retrace our steps. We reached a point where the trail seemed to disappear and there were no marks. Maybe erosion or a recent storm washed it away (it may be clear by the time you do this hike).

    Back to the main trail, we walked to the more dense part of the forest and checked the views of the road along the coast that leads to Well’s Bay and enjoyed a bird’s eye view of the capital of Saba.

    View of a road on a verdant hill with the ocean and a big rock in the background
    View of The Road towards Well’s Bay
    View of a small village with white houses with red rooves in the valley of a verdant mountain
    View of The Bottom from the Parish Hill trail

    We started descending and towards the last section, close to the hospital, we couldn’t find the trail. We had to make our way under the trees to get to the hospital’s parking lot. Nothing major.

    The trailhead for Parish Hill trail is at the beginning of the road that leads to Fort Bay (on your right) and finishes at the road behind the hospital. 

    Distance: 1.01 kms/0.63 miles
    Estimated time: 1.5 hours 


    HIKING TRAILS ON SABA WITH HIKING DIFFICULTY: STRENUOUS

    Mount Scenery Trail  

    Aerial view of a hill from a step trail up in a lush mountain with the sea in the background
    The Mount Scenery trail

    Mount Scenery is the most visited trail on Saba and it’s a popular choice for people who visit the island for one day from Sint Maarten. Here’s why:

    First, when you reach the summit – at 887 metres (2,877 ft.) – you can claim that you’ve been to the highest point in the Kingdom of the Netherlands, which comes with breathtaking views. But there’s a catch, keep reading.

    Second, the trailhead is conveniently located in Windwardside, the village where you’ll find most stores, restaurants and places to stay on Saba. It’s only a few steps from the Trail Shop run by the Saba Conservation Foundation. 

    And third, the trail is mainly stairs so most people can do it. The trick? We’re talking about 1,015 steps. 

    From the trailhead up to when you approach the Mas’Cohone’s Hill turn, the uneven steps are made out of rocks covered in moss.

    A man standing on irregular stone steps which make a trail in a secondary tropical rainforest with palms and tall trees
    The lower steps of the Mount Scenery trail

    You’re entering a lush rainforest so when it rains, it’s muddy and slippery, even the day after. Not a good option for a rainy day. The last section at the top is always slippery.

    After you walk past the Mas’Cohone’s Hill sign you’ll step on a flat dirt path crossing a grassy field until you reach a fork. To the left you’ll find access to Crispeen Track and other interconnected trails, and to the right you’ll continue your ascent to Mount Scenery.

    From now on it’s all uphill on steps of all sizes and inclinations (handrails come handy in the most slanted sections), with ferns, heliconias, mountain fuchsia, palms, treeferns, fruit trees and more along the way. You’ll find two shelters where you can take a break.

    As you reach higher elevation, you’ll start seeing the blue horizon on your left. Stop, look back, and take pleasure in these appetizers since you may not have a main course waiting for you at the top. More on that later.

    A flower with ridged thick leaves and small dark red clusters of bulbs
    A Hydrangea Arguta in Mount Scenery
    High view of a mountain with the ocean in the background, framed with tropical vegetation
    Enjoy the views along the way
    View of the ocean from a trail with steps and through tropical vegetation with big leaves
    Take a break from the steps to check out the view

    Once you see a bench on your left facing a “Scenic View sign” you can take a deep breath, you’ve almost made it.

    Turn left at the fork, behind the bench, and go on the steps to visit the The Bottom viewpoint, from where you’ll see Torrens Point on the northwest coast.  Go back and turn right to step into the magical world of the Mount Scenery upper valley, home to the cloud (elfin) forest.

    This section has a sloped path so slippery that you’ll feel as if your shoes have turned into skates. You don’t walk, you slide, which is a reason why flip flops aren’t recommended (I did fine with sport sandals). Thank God for the handrails.

    A man on a concrete path with a handrail in a cloud forest environment and a sign saying "Scenic View"
    Hang on to that rail

    You’ll also see an entrance to the Elfin Forest trail. I think it’s better to access this trail from the Sandy Cruz trail and make your way up to Mount Scenery as the path is muddy and slippery. I can’t imagine doing it downhill.

    On your left the landscape matches the set of a movie about the prehistoric era, with birds chanting at the top of their tiny lungs. It’s even more impressive when you see it from above, after climbing the rocky section ahead.

    A rocky path with a handrail along a hill covered with ferns and with tree ferns, in a cloudy day
    The last section before the path leading to the scenic views
    A cloud forest with three ferns and a mountain top in the background
    And then you’ll enjoy one of the best views of the cloud forest
    Mayra standing under a tree fern in a grassy trail
    Am I in heaven?

    You’ll then walk on a flat dirt path from where you can access the two highest viewpoints on Saba.

    To your right is the Windwardside viewpoint. Walk past the communication tower to find a narrow passage that ends at a big rock with a sign welcoming you to the highest point in the Dutch Kingdom. Congrats, you made it!

    Windwardside is at your feet, with St. Eustatius and St. Kitts and Nevis in the background.

    Aerial view of a small village up a hill with the ocean in the background and a distant island
    View of Windwardside from Mount Scenery

    The views of the ocean and Saba’s rugged topography with its cliffs and valleys are totally worth the 1,000+ steps. However, they’re elusive. 

    Remember I told you to look back as you go up? That’s because it’s all the views you may see. Most times, there’s a cloud up there (hence the name “cloud forest”), which you’ll find in most pictures of Saba. 

    You may look up before and during your hike and see a clear peak, and by the time you get there it’s cloudy. My first two attempts, this was the view.

    Mayra sitting on a rock next to a small dog while looking towards the cloud
    “Where’s the view?”, Shui asked.
    A slope with ferns, elephant ears and palms with a rock in the foreground and a misty mountain in the background
    The views are gorgeous, they said.

    But the third time’s the charm. The gods of all things misty parted the clouds. Yay!

    Retrace your steps and go to the other side of the fork to the Hell’s Gate viewpoint. You’ll find a boardwalk with steps leading to spectacular views of the cloud forest at the top, Spring Bay, Old Booby Hill, and the airport.

    Wood steps with rails on a trail on a mountain crest covered with lush vegetation and the ocean in the background
    What you may see from the second viewpoint
    High view of a hill, a bay, and a landing strip next to the ocean
    View of Old Booby Hill, and the airport

    The hike is beautiful, even if you’re surrounded by clouds when you make it to the top. But if your only goal is to take a clear picture from there, you may be disappointed. As a general rule, you’ll find more clouds later in the day.

    You can also access the Mount Scenery trail from the end of Mountain Road. Park your car or ask a taxi to drop you off and step on the trail from there, which will save you about 20 minutes of steps.

    If you’re up for a bigger challenge, you can access Mount Scenery from The Bottom by hiking the Crispeen Track trail all the way or by connecting to the Bud’s Mountain trail via Crispeen Track.

    Save your knees and bring a hiking stick. Be aware that there’s no phone signal in some sections so stay safe and share your hiking itinerary with someone before you leave.

    Distance: 2.39 kms/1.49 miles
    Estimated time: 2.5 hours round trip (shorter if you take the shortcut at the end of Mountain Road)


    Elfin Forest Trail 

    A trailhead in a tropical rainforest environment with a sign saying "Elfin Forest"
    The Elfin Forest trailhead at the Sandy Cruz Trail

    Does the fairytale name sound so magical to you as it sounds to me? On Saba, I learned that Elfin Forest refers to the type of vegetation that you find at high elevations in a tropical environment with wet conditions. Basically, a cloud forest.

    We accessed the Elfin Forest trail via the Sandy Cruz trail from Zion’s Hill. The trailhead sign is about 350 metres from Sandy Cruz’s entrance. If you see a bench go back, you’ve gone too far.

    During the ascent you’ll be under shade of tree ferns, Elephant Ears and Mountain Cabbage, with occasional views of the upper section of Mount Scenery in the distance, where it ends.

    A trail with big rocks covered in moss lush tropical vegetation
    The beautiful Elfin Forest trail
    A man looking up to a tree-covered mountain top engulfed in clouds
    View of Mount Scenery’s top from Elfin Trail

    Before reaching the top section of the cloud forest stop at the Mariette Naber bench from where you’ll have a panoramic view of Northeast Saba, the airport, and the island of Sint Maarten. 

    View of a landing strip next to the ocean from a high point on a mountain with elephant ears
    Check out Saba’s airport from Elfin Forest’s viewpoint

    Shortly after we saw nothing but the thick, lush, evergreen, cloud forest. The trail became muddy and slippery, and some sections were overgrown. My feet slid in every direction on the thick mud as I tried to keep my balance through rocks and slopes. Thank God for the hiking poles.

    A dense cloud forest with ferns and elephant ears
    Here comes the forest!

    The top section is populated by Mountain Mahogany and giant banana trees wrapped in a mist. You’ll see epiphytes, moss, and tiny leaves wrapping the trees, long vines hanging from the branches and you may spot some orchids. It’s such a mystical environment that if I had seen red and gold fairies fluttering around me I wouldn’t have thought I was losing it.

    A muddy trail with ferns and a blanket of different types of forest leaves
    The slippery (but gorgeous) Elfin Forest trail
    A tree trunk covered with moss and small leaves
    Moss and leaves cover the tree trunks
    A tree trunk covered in vines, small and hairy medium-sized leaves
    Strange pretty things grow in the cloud forest

    Our original plan was to return the same way and take the trail down back to Sandy Cruz. That didn’t stick. “I’m so NOT going back this way!”.

    We took the Mount Scenery steps down to the start of Mountain Road, which ends at The Road, near English Quarter (the East end of Windwardside). The downhill walk along Mountain Road has fabulous views of Windwardside and the sea beyond.

    Alternatively, you can take the steps all the way down to the Mount Scenery trailhead.

    As you may have figured out by now, the difficulty of this trail comes in the form of a pool of mud as you gain more elevation along the steep upper section.  I did this trail during my first visit to Saba when there was a drought going on, and it was still a mud pool. I can’t imagine the conditions during the rainy season.

    I wouldn’t do this trial without hiking poles and, if possible, bring hiking boots. It’s messy, but I wouldn’t miss it.

    Distance: 0.89kms/0.55 miles
    Estimated time: 1 hour 


    All Too Far Trail  

    A man entering a trail in a tropical environment with a sign saying "All Too Far Trail"
    Access to All Too Far Trail from the Sandy Cruz Trail

    Yes, Saba has funny names and I can only guess that, back in time when the trails were the “roads”, people didn’t come here often because it was, ahem, all too far.

    The All Too Far trail spurs from the Sandy Cruz trail and leads to the Old Sulfur Mine trail, or viceversa.

    I took it from Sandy Cruz, downhill and then back up. The terrain is rocky, slippery and steep, with many switchbacks that take you from a rainforest environment to a dry scrub vegetation ecosystem. Keep your eyes peeled for orchids.

    A man going downhill on a narrow dirt trail with rocks and lush tropical vegetation
    The switchbacks along All Too Far Trail

    As you approach the lower section you start losing the shade and it gets drier and hotter (bring enough water), but the sea views get better.  You’ll see the ocean beyond the north coast and at the junction with the Sulfur Mine trail you’ll see the top of the Pirate Cliffs. 

    Mayra on a hiking trail with sea views and a hill on the background  with a dry forest environment
    Sea views from All Too Far Trail

    This sweet memory softens the memory of the pain I felt after being stung twice by a Jack Spaniard wasp near the trailhead. Instead of leaving a sting mark on my hand, it left a small hole, as in a bite. And it’s freaking painful.

    There’s no phone signal here.

    Distance: 1.5 kms/0.93 miles
    Estimated time: 1.5 hours one way (starting at the junction with Sandy Cruz), 2.5 hours one way (starting at the junction with Old Sulfur Mine).


    Giles Quarter Trail 

    A man standing on a rocky hill looking towards the ocean
    The view from the Gilles Quarter Trail

    The Giles Quarter trail offers uninterrupted views of the southern coast of Saba from its access point through the Dancing Place trail, off The Road, and it ends at Fort Bay. On a clear day you can also see St. Eustatius.

    The first section will take you along a ridge with orange marks indicating the route until you get close to the coast.

    A man going downhill on a rocky and grassy ridge leading to the coast
    Follow the orange marks along the ridge

    After that you kind of wing it, although it’s not that difficult as you follow the coastline towards Fort Bay.

    A man walking on a dirt path along the coastline
    Once you reach the coast you walk towards Fort Bay

    The government is building a new road in the area close to the trail therefore there may be detours (or even closures) as you approach the coast. Before doing this trail check with the Trail Shop that there are no washouts due to recent storms.

    Before heading to Fort Bay you can turn left and walk along the coastline towards the Hole in the Corner well.

    The main feature of the Giles Quarter trail is the sea view. And then the views of the cliffs and the road when you look back. Other than cacti, dry scrub vegetation, and some flowers like the Wild Allamanda and Mountain Mana, you won’t see anything else than rocks.

    Cacti with long spines and a bright yellow flower
    Cacti along the trail
    A man hiking a trail with rocks and yellow flowers
    Walk past clusters of Wild Allamanda
    View of a rugged mountain from the bottom of a rocky and grassy field on a cloudy day
    Turn back from time to time to see the hills
    A cluster of small bright pink flowers among greens on the ground
    Mountain Manna adds colour to the trail

    You’ll also see the poisonous Manchineel tree, which has fruits resembling a small apple. You can’t seek cover under these trees. There are warning signs next to them, but in case they’re missing, be aware that they’re around and stay away (read more on the Safety Tips section).

    There’s no shade whatsoever, which is what makes this trail difficult. Bring a hat, sunglasses, reef-safe sunblock, and enough water. Start early as if it gets too hot the lower section turns into a heat trap.

    Wear long pants to protect you from scratches and a hiking stick to save your knees.

    Right before reaching Fort Bay you can take a refreshing dip at Gary’s Pond, a man-made pond to swim and snorkel. You can arrange a taxi to pick you up at Fort Bay as they’re not always available.

    Distance: 3.49 kms/2.17 miles
    Estimated time: 3 hours (downhill from Dancing Place)


    Mary’s Point Trail  

    A man on a trail covered with leaves and rocks, with trees with hanging vines arched above the trail
    Mary’s Point Trail

    Mary’s Point trail is an interesting one that combines scenery and archaeology. It takes you through the hills of Saba’s northwest coast where you can see the remains of Mary’s Point village (founded in the early 19th century) in addition to fabulous views of Well’s Bay.

    The trail starts right before reaching the end of the road to Well’s Bay and continues alongside a ravine until you make a left to start ascending through a shaded path in the forest.

    A rocky ravine shaded by tall trees in a dry forest
    The first section of the Mary’s Point trail
    Wood posts with ropes along a trail with built-in steps and many leafy tropical trees
    Steps will make your ascent easier

    At a higher elevation wood posts with ropes and steps cut in the ground ease the ascent. At this point the ocean views start peeking through the sea grape trees.

    A man going up on a trail with wood steps with ropes in a mountain hike with a hill and the ocean in the background
    The steps take you up to great views

    You’ll then emerge from the forest to an open area at the edge of the cliff where you’ll find a bench and a viewpoint of Well’s Bay, Torrens Point, and the north coast.

    View of a concrete road winding around a steep mountain and the ocean in the distance
    Catch a view of The Road to Well’s Bay
    View of a rocky cliff descending into the ocean with big rocks in the distance
    Enjoy amazing views of Torrens Point

    If you could jump into a time machine and head back to the 19th century you would be seeing pirate ships and privateers instead of dive boats. According to the Saba Archaeological Centre, captured boats were brought here, where the people from Mary’s Point would change them and make them unrecognizable so merchants from Statia could resell them in St. Thomas under disguise.

    If you could go further back in the time machine you would see indigenous peoples hunting and living in caves.

    Keep ascending along the edge of the mountain and visit the stone foundations and cisterns of Mary’s Point village, where the main activities were fishing, offering supplies to boats, farming, and laundering the cargo of captured ships.

    There’s a map of the village showing the location of the cistern and of 12 out the 16 houses built here before Sabans tackled the monumental task of deconstructing them (except for the stone foundations) and rebuilding them at The Bottom in the early 1930s.

    The abandoned stone foundation of a house in a dry forest and a cross on the ground marking a grave
    A stone foundation at Mary’s Point, next to a grave
    An old cistern made of stone in a dry forest
    Remains of a cistern at Mary’s Point

    The reason? Poverty was on the rise, public health was declining, and constant erosion was a danger. The erosion continues and at some point all this may disappear, which is why it’s important to stay away from the cliff and it’s advisable to bring a hiking partner.

    I wouldn’t attempt this hike if it’s raining or the day after. Not only the leaves covering the steps can make the descent tricky, but you may also have to deal with falling rocks. Every time the wind picked up I could hear small rocks falling and feel lots of dust in the air, forcing me to close my eyes. Bring sunglasses.

    You’ll need a car or take a taxi to Well’s Bay and arrange a pick up time as there’s no phone signal here. 

    If the sea is calm you may be able to snorkel on Well’s Bay after your hike.

    Distance: 0.75 kms/0.47 miles
    Estimated time: 1 hour one way


    Spring Bay Heritage Trail  

    High view of a marine bay between two hills and an airport landing on the left
    Spring Bay

    The “heritage” part of the name comes from the artifacts found along this trail, belonging to the indigenous peoples who inhabited this area before colonization. You can see them at the Harry L. Johnson Museum.

    From English Quarter (right east of Windwardside), the Spring Bay trail starts as a dry forest with many trees carrying epiphytes (you may see some daddy long-legs orchids), along a rocky path with elephant ears, bromeliads, aloe plants, and hermit crabs patrolling the grounds.

    A man on a trail covered with leaves and aloe plants on the  side under the shade of leafy trees
    The shaded section of the Spring Bay trail

    This is the only shaded section of the trail. You’ll then walk downhill on a ridge with some colourful spots courtesy of Turk’s Cap cacti, periwinkles, and Wild Allamandas. Look back to catch a good view of Mount Scenery, clouds permitting, and the cliffs of Saba.

    A man on a rocky trail in an open spaces with leafy trees and the ocean in the distance
    The descent along the trail towards the ridge
    Mayra standing on a rocky trail without trees with a view of a verdant mountain in the background
    As you hike Spring Bay views of Mount Scenery are behind you

    To the right you’ll see beautiful views of Old Booby Hill and St. Eustatius in the distance. To the left lies Spring Bay and the airport.

    A man on a trail overlooking two grassy hills and an island in the far distance
    You’ll catch great views along the ridge and you’ll see St. Eustatius

    Up to the point where I was facing the hill I enjoyed a calm breeze, which immediately stopped once I turned left at the trail sign to go down towards Spring Bay.

    Mayra hiking a long a grassy trail with no trees overlooking two hills and a landing strip
    Hiking towards Spring Bay

    This marks the start of what, to me, is the most challenging section of the trail: from the left turn at Old Booby Hill until you start climbing up to Kelbey’s Ridge.

    It’s freaking hot, there’s no air and no shade. It’s all dry scrub vegetation and you can’t go anywhere near the only tree that provides shade, a Manchineel tree, because it’s poisonous.

    A trail on a hill with loose rocks and a bay in the distance
    Getting to Spring Bay: you’ll find loose gravel and Manchineel trees

    In the ravine the terrain is loose rock, gravel, and the erosion has eaten parts of the narrow trail.

    Once you arrive at the bay you’ll balance over medium and large boulders, walking parallel to the coast and then turn left, following the markers to go uphill.

    A man on a rocky trail hiking towards a rocky beach
    Approaching Spring Bay at the end of the ravine
    A beach with big boulders and a hill in the background
    Time to balance over Spring Bay’s big boulders.

    The sea will be on your right, along with an unbelievable amount of plastic washed out on the rocks, possibly mixed with some sargassum (no swimming here). Despite cleaning efforts, more and more plastic keeps coming. I can almost hear the ocean saying: “There you go. You all take back what you threw at me”.

    Follow the orange markers on the rocks and look for the Kelbey’s Ridge sign. Inland, not that far, lay the ruins of the Spring Bay boiling house (which I noticed once I started going uphill). I’ve done this trail twice and I haven’t seen them up close because at this point I just want to get out of the hot pan to feel some air again, which happens as soon as you start going up the hill to reach Kelbey’s Ridge. 

    I don’t think there’s much to see, anyway. You be the judge:

    Stone remains of an old boiling house in a dry vegetation environment
    Ruins of the Spring Bay boiling house

    We took some breaks along the ascent to have a snack and delight in the lovely view of the Spring Bay valley and Old Booby Hill.  Once we reached the top we walked towards a bench that is one of the best observation points of Saba’s airport.

    View of a hill and a rocky beach from a high point
    View of Spring Bay and Old Booby Hill from Kelbey’s Ridge
    View of an airport landing from a bench up in a ridge
    View of the airport from Kelbey’s Ridge

    From here you can step on the paved road that connects to Airport Road, walk downhill towards the airport and call a taxi. Or you can hike back to English Quarter, in which case my hat’s off to you 1000 times.

    If you want to have a refreshing dip after hiking the Spring Bay trail you can walk a few minutes past the airport and visit Cove Bay.  Calling it a beach is a little bit of a stretch, but it does the job to cool you down.

    Bring tons of water for this hike, much more than what you think you’ll need. Of all the trails I completed on Saba, this was the hottest.  Do it either early in the morning or early afternoon for some shade. Don’t forget sunblock, hat, sunglasses, and a hiking stick. You’ll kiss it at the end of the trail.

    You’ll do much better with hiking shoes due to the loose rocks.

    Distance: 2.96 kms/1.84 miles
    Estimated time: 3 hours one way 


    Safety Tips for Hiking in Saba

    A sign on a trailhead saying "Spring Bay" and a warning sign about Manchineel poisonous tree
    Beware of Manchineel trees
    • The Saba Conservation Foundation does a great job maintaining the trails and the markings. However, rough weather can change trail conditions in a heartbeat. Erosion and storms affect the island steep hills and downpours can make muddy trails impassable prompting closures and restrictions. Check the link under the “View the Latest SFC Trail Advisory” section on this page before planning your hikes. Before hitting the trails visit the Trail shop for maps and latest updates (not a guarantee that you won’t find unexpected conditions).
    • Always let someone know your hiking itinerary as some trails have no phone signal.
    • Manchineel trees, which you can find on some trails near the coastal areas, are poisonous. The fruit is known as “death apples”, which says it all. Not only the fruit is poisonous, but the sap of the tree and the water falling from its leaves when it rains are harmful. Although signs are displayed next to the trees, always check that you’re not approaching one.
    A leafy tree with bright green leaves in a rocky trail
    A Manchineel tree in Spring Bay. Stay away!
    A fruit resembling an apple hanging from a leafy branch
    The fruit is known as the death apple
    • Hiking sticks on Saba are highly recommended. You’ll encounter slippery conditions, terrain with loose rocks, steps covered in leaves, and constant changes in elevation. Save your knees and your behind and rent them at the Trail shop or bring your own. Whistles are also available.
    • I was able to get away with sport sandals for some trails (forget about flip flops), but you’ll be better off with hiking shoes and, in some cases, with hiking boots.
    • If you encounter a Black Racer snake, let it be. It’s unique to Saba and Statia and it’s harmless.
    • Bring plenty of water. The trails on the lower section barely have any shade (don’t forget your hat) and it gets hot. The trails on the upper section are shaded, but they are steep.
    • You can encounter Jack Spaniard wasps on some trails (I got bitten twice and it hurts like hell). If you’re allergic, take precautions.

    Have you done any hikes on Saba? Which was your favourite? For more hikes around the Caribbean check out my posts about hiking in Sint Maarten and the beautiful hikes on Nevis island.


    YOU MAY ALSO WANT TO READ

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    9 Reasons Why It Is Worth Visiting Saba Island

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    How to Get to Saba Island: Find Your Ideal Fit

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    12 Best Things to Do in Saba in the Caribbean


    BOOKING FLIGHTS AND ACCOMMODATIONS

    Book your flight without losing your shirt

    We check Momondo to find great deals to book our flights. Also, check Great Escape: it combines the listings from Expedia, Kiwi, Kayak, (and Skyscanner on the premium service) to find the best airfares.

    To find a place to stay for less

    Booking.com: you’ll find any type of property you can think of in their massive listing, with one of the most comprehensive filters. We’ve found great deals on boutique hotels, apartments, and private rooms in hostels.

    Hotwire: the first site I check when we plan to stay at a hotel for a few nights. You can save anything from 20% to 60%.  Use the search filter to find what you want and you’ll end up with three listings that match your criteria. You’ll know which one you’ll get after you book. If you can handle a little bit of uncertainty you can score big savings.

    House Sitting: you take care of people’s pets and house for free while staying for free. It’s the closest thing to experiencing a place “like a local”. But it comes with responsibilities… Are you an animal lover? It may become your new way to travel.

    To get travel insurance

    SafetyWing: travel medical insurance that gives us peace of mind knowing that we’re covered in case of emergency. It’s convenient, affordable, and suitable for digital nomads who spend a long time outside their home country.

    Check the full list of travel resources on my Resource Page for more options and savings

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    About Mayra Carvajal

    Hi, I’m Mayra. A full-time nomad with an appetite for travelling. Art and design are my salt and pepper, with a side order of nature and outdoors. When I’m not gazing at architecture or any other form of art, you’ll see me on a hiking trail, at the top of an ancient ruin, or under a beach umbrella. Here you’ll find practical tips for independent trips, travel stories, and images that may inspire you to explore a new place or high-five your creative muse. Read my About page if you want to learn more about how this site can help you travel more.

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