Exploring Charlestown in Nevis: The Quaint Town of Alexander Hamilton

As the boat approaches Charlestown, the capital of the island of Nevis, you get a glimpse of the landscape of the town. The quaint two-storey buildings with bright-painted wood and contrasting dark stones sleep under the eye of the imposing Nevis Peak.  

Charlestown is a small town you can explore on foot. Here you can learn about the place as you wander around historic buildings -including the place where Alexander Hamilton was born- rather than having the typical crowded cruise port shopping experience. You know what I’m talking about: the same jewelry stores, watch stores, and cheap souvenir stores.

While there are many things to do in Nevis, it’s worth visiting Charlestown a couple of hours, either as part of your stay here, as part of a day trip from St. Kitts or on a cruise ship stop.

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These are the 5 top things to do in Charlestown on Nevis island

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Stop at the Museum of Nevis History and Visit the Birthplace of Alexander Hamilton

It was right there, on the 11th day of January in the year of 1757, where Alexander Hamilton was born. Yes, the same Hamilton of the successful Broadway show.

Alexander Hamilton, a Nevisian, became an Inspector General of the Army and was one of the founding fathers of the United States. But don’t look for his signature in the Declaration of Independence. You’ll find it in the Constitution, signing for New York. If you want to see his original signature, stamped on September 17th 1787, go to the National Archives in Washington, D.C.

One of the houses hosts the Museum of Nevis History on the first floor, and the meeting of the Nevis Island Assembly on the second floor. At the small museum you can learn about the history and the culture of Nevis.

Right across, at the Alexander Hamilton House, you can learn all about his life. You’ll find a small café on site and a gift shop.

Open Mon.-Fri.: 9AM-4PM; Sat.-Sun: 9AM-1PM; General admission: US$5 (valid for both houses)

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Check Out the Traditional Caribbean Architecture in Charlestown  

Charlestown is one of the waterfront towns in the Caribbean where you can still see well-preserved traditional buildings from the 1800s.

Walk through the streets of downtown Nevis surrounded by colourful houses with adorable gingerbread trim. You’ll see several buildings with volcanic stone walls on the first floor and wood walls on the second floor.

The Nevis Tourism Authority Building is a great example. Another prominent building is the Court House and Library rebuilt at the end of the 1800s, with cut stone and small arched windows with adorning details on the gables.

Here are other examples of traditional Caribbean architecture around Charlestown that narrate the history of Nevis, and are part of the Heritage Trail.

St. Paul’s Anglican Church and School   

The St. Paul’s Anglican Church and School, established between 1680 and 1700 (the current building dates back to the early 1700s), has a remarkable historical significance. In its early days only the settlers who were members of the Anglican Church would come here. But in 1812 things started to change thanks to Daniel Davis, the new appointed rector.

Daniel, born in St. Kitts and son of a local planter, started to have second thoughts about slavery and he established a church school to evangelize enslaved people. The school later became an education facility for former slaves.

Charleston Methodist Church 

In 1844, ten years after Nevis emancipation, freedmen built this stone church with a Gothic influence and multi-colour stained glass that enlivens the façade.

The Nevis Slave Market  

In 1670 the colonizers built this market for the (sadly) prosperous slave trade. Plantation owners from Nevis and from other islands would come here to buy people and enslave them. This historic site would be great for a museum dedicated to educate about the horrors of slavery and the emancipation movement, but only the exterior walls are (kind of) standing. Not much to see here, but it’s an important part of history.

If you want to see more examples of the cute gingerbread style houses in the Caribbean, visit Marigot in Saint Martin and the villages of the island of Saba.

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Take a Dip in the Bath Stream (Nevis Hot Spring) Near the Historic Nevis Bath House Hotel

The Bath Hotel, dating back to 1778, is known as the first tourist hotel in the Caribbean. Throughout the 19th century it catered to an upscale clientele from around the world and it was “the place to be” not only in Nevis but in the region. La crème de la crème flocked to the Bath House to relax on the thermal springs that some claim to have healing properties thanks to its minerals.

Today, after being damaged by earthquakes in the 1950s and being repurposed several times (it was last used as government offices) the site is closed but you can still see the structure of the stone building with nature taking over, including a gorgeous tree that has grown in front of the hotel.

There is not much left of the Bath House though, but you can still enjoy the hot springs (hot as in higher than 100 degrees) at the Bath Stream “pools”, in a much lesser style than the dignitaries and the rich people did more than two centuries ago (and without the price tag, it’s free).

When I visited, only the Spring House (the small one with a roof) was open. I was ready to soak my legs in the mineral soup when I noticed that the guy sitting there was busy doing his pedicure, pumice stone scrubbing and all. He must have seen my face looking at the murky water as he said “Get in! Get in! The water is always flowing”. 

Uhmm… no thanks.

You may have better luck and you may enjoy a relaxing dip after hiking the trails of Nevis. The site is always open so you can visit at the end of the day to avoid the overwhelming heat.

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Enjoy the View from Fort Charles  

At first, when I drove down a dirt road and passed a couple of abandoned buildings, I thought we were lost. I turned around and I saw the Heritage Trail blue sign. “OK, it must be here…somewhere…”. I turned around again and kept driving until I saw it on the right corner.

Unfortunately, there isn’t much left of Fort Charles. However, you can still see some old walls standing, several cannons engraved with the English crown and the initials “G.R.”(George Rex -Rex is Latin for “king”-), the powder magazine, a cistern and the fantastic view of Gallows Bay and St. Kitts.

This heritage site has an interesting history. During the 17th century and the early 18th century no island in the vicinity could rival Nevis when it came to the number of forts and cannons.

In 1628 England built Pelican Point Fort to protect the port of Charlestown. The fort was put to the test in 1652 when France -who had expanded its territory across the region- came for Nevis. It passed the test with flying colours since England kept them at bay, preventing France from solidifying their dominion.

By 1671 someone said We need a bigger fort!

The existing fort was demolished and the stones were used to build Fort Charles, which became the largest fort on Nevis and a witness to many more battles between England and France.

It was abandoned in 1894 and only in the last couple of years the government has started taking care of the premises, cutting the grass and keeping the site clean.

If you expect to see a well preserved fort you’ll be disappointed. But if you’re into history with a side of panoramic views, you’ll enjoy a short visit to the site.

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Go to the Beach

A 9-minute ride is the only thing that separates the Charleston Ferry Pier from Pinney’s Beach, one of the best beaches in Nevis, with crystal clear water and soft sand, minus the crazy crowds.

If you’re visiting Nevis for a few hours and you want to experience its amazing beaches, Pinney’s Beach is the closest to Charlestown’s cruise port. You’ll find beach restaurants and bars where you can sip local drinks.

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Tempted to wander the streets of Charlestown in search of historic sites with old stone buildings and colourful details? With its relaxed vibe, you’ll feel transported to another era. For more fun, check out my post on what else to do in Nevis.

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