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    San Miguel de Allende: 5 Reasons Why Art and Architecture Fans Love It

    By Mayra Carvajal

    No matter how creative we all can be, we all need a booster shot of inspiration every now and then. You can take it by walking through a beautiful town or a nature preserve, by looking at different art media, or by working side by side with other artists and feeding on the collective energy. 

    San Miguel de Allende, a small town in the state of Guanajuato and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is an art enclave where you’ll find all of the above.

    The ornamentation of the Baroque and Churrigueresque-style buildings is a dream. The local art and crafts you find at the markets and galleries are terrific, including the colourful wool blankets still woven by hand in the telares, a tradition that goes back hundreds of years.

    You can take day trips to nearby enchanting towns to discover more architectural jewels.

    Disclosure: This post contains some affiliate links. If you make a purchase through those links I will earn a commission at no additional cost to you (zero, nada). To check the full disclaimer, click here.

    If you love art and design, you’ll feel at home here. Read more to find out why.

    A neo-gothic style big church
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    Table of Contents

    • The Stunning Ornamentation of the 17th and 18th-century Churches
      • The Parish of San Miguel Arcángel
      • Iglesia de San Rafael y Torre del Reloj (Church of San Rafael and Clock Tower)
      • Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Salud (Church of Our Lady of Health)
      • Old Convent of San Antonio
      • Oratory of San Felipe Neri
    • The Enriching Programs of the Many Cultural Centres and Galleries
      • Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramírez El Nigromante 
      • Citibanamex Cultural Centre – Casa del Mayorazgo de la Canal
      • Jardín Allende
    • The Lovely Cobblestone Streets and Preserved Architectural Details
    • The Beauty of the Rugged Landscape and its Wildlife (El Charco del Ingenio Botanical Garden)
    • The Fun Workshops to Connect with the Artist Community
    • Day trips from San Miguel de Allende
      • Visit Historic Dolores Hidalgo
      • Explore Artsy Queretaro City
      • Go to Beautiful Guanajuato
    • San Miguel de Allende vs. Guanajuato 
    • How to Get to San Miguel de Allende
      • Sierra Gorda de Queretaro: An Exciting 3-Day Getaway to Nature’s Paradise

    The Stunning Ornamentation of the 17th and 18th-century Churches

    You won’t run out of inspiration when you see all the swirly carvings in the buildings, the niches with sculptures, and the patterns on the massive wooden doors. Take a look at these ones: 

    The Parish of San Miguel Arcángel

    A big church with gothic style and pink hues
    Festivities at the Parish of San Miguel Arcángel

    You’ll see it in every single picture of San Miguel. It’s the tallest and most famous church in town, centrally located in front of Jardín Allende, where main cultural events take place.

    This Neo Gothic-style church is from the 17th century, but the proliferation of Gaudi-esque pinnacles that look like the spikes of pink meringues is an addition from the late 19th century.

    The elaborate interiors are framed by multiple stone arches (no pictures allowed inside).

    Even though San Miguel is the most imposing church, it’s only a runner-up when compared to the beauty of other temples competing for the most stunning. More below.

    Principal, Zona Centro 

    Iglesia de San Rafael y Torre del Reloj (Church of San Rafael and Clock Tower)

    A pink church with a clock tower
    Church of San Rafael

    You may walk past this 18th-century church, also known as La Santa Escuela de Cristo (the Holy School of Christ) and don’t even realize it because it’s located to the left of San Miguel Arcángel, side by side. You may think it’s part of the mammoth next door, but it’s not.

    If you don’t miss it you’ll notice the two-toned pink stones forming a pointed arch supported by Doric columns flanking the door. I loved that, but even more interesting is the design of the tower, reminiscent of Moorish decorations.

    Correo, Zona Centro

    Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Salud (Church of Our Lady of Health)

    A historic church with a big shell rounding the façade
    This is my favourite church

    The stone facade of this 18th-century church stopped me in my tracks, with a huge shell-like canopy forming a semi-concave entrance with smaller shells carved at the top of the five decorated niches.

    It may be on the small side but it’s freaking unique, precious, with floral carvings everywhere typical of the Churrigueresque style (a type of Spanish Baroque).

    A zoom of the upper part of the façade of a church with a carved shell on top and niches below
    The gorgeous Church of Our Lady of Health

    Try to come back after dark to see it lit up. The lights on the rugged shapes add a magical effect.

    It was hard to pick a favourite, but to me, this is the winner. Gold medal!

    Soledad 7, Zona Centro

    Old Convent of San Antonio

    A church with decorated columns carved in the façade
    The Old Convent of San Antonio

    The peculiar cantera stone carvings on each side of the entrance caught my eye: three sinuous ornamented columns with variable depth that go from top to bottom, filled with many small sculptures.

    It looks orderly and dynamic at the same type.

    This 17th-century Franciscan temple was previously occupied by the San Antonio de Padua convent facing a lovely garden with benches and a fountain, surrounded by topiaries. 

    This is my second favourite church. I give it the Silver medal.

    Bonus tip: there’s a trolley that takes you around the town on a historic route and it’s a great way to see points of interest if you’re short of time and to highlight what stops you would like to revisit.

    San Francisco 14, Zona Centro

    Oratory of San Felipe Neri

    A church with a pink stone façade and a flat, broken shell at the top
    The Oratory of San Felipe Neri

    When I saw this 18th-century church in Baroque style I wondered if a giant had made his life mission to roll out floral and leaf designs with a texture roller on every single inch of the facade. Except this is not a clay slab (despite its reddish tone), but it’s all made in cantera stone, like most of the city.

    Check out the door, which is original from the early 1700s.

    It’s all crowned by a shell (not quite like the one from the Church of Our Lady of Health, though).

    To me, this takes the bronze medal. Which one is your favourite?

    Insurgentes 12, Zona Centro


    Walking Tour of San Miguel: this 2-hour tour gives you an insight into the art, culture, history, and architecture by visiting many interesting sites. 15 people max.
    Book this tour, with a rating of 4.9/5 based on more than 275 reviews.

    Do you prefer a private tour to go at your own pace? Check out this one, with a rating of 4.9/5 based on more than 240 reviews.

    The Enriching Programs of the Many Cultural Centres and Galleries

    If there’s something you can count on in San Miguel is finding a good concert, an interesting exhibit, a performance, or all of them. There’s always something going on here every day.

    Beyond the cultural events, visiting some venues is an experience in itself as they’re located inside old convents or houses.

    Check these out:

    Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramírez El Nigromante 

    A sunny inner patio with a fountain and tall trees
    The cloister at the Ignacio Ramirez Cultural Centre

    Housed inside the pink walls of a former convent from the 18th century turned first into a school and turned into barracks during the revolution, this cultural centre has promoted Mexican and international art since 1962.

    See their temporary exhibits and don’t miss a gem on permanent display on their walls: 1940s frescoes from some of Mexico’s great muralists such as David Alfaro Siqueiros (with an unfinished mural since he walked out of the job in protest) and Pedro Martínez.

    A frescoe mural with a fantastic creature
    “El Fanatismo del Pueblo” (1939), by Pedro Martínez.

    Sit under the shade of tall trees and relax listening to the sound of the fountain in the cloister, framed by arches. This peaceful space is filled with music and movement when it turns into a space for concerts and theatre plays. 

    Centro Cultural El Nigromante

    Hernández Macías 75, Zona Centro 

    Citibanamex Cultural Centre – Casa del Mayorazgo de la Canal

    A monumental door in a historic building
    One of the most beautiful doors in town

    Another case where the space in itself is a work of art, starting with the exquisitely carved monumental door with the statue of the Virgin of Loreto watching you from above.

    This gorgeous 18th-century house has rotating exhibits and a store selling beautiful books and crafts.

    You can join free guided tours of the house every day except Mondays.

    Conde de La Cana 4, Zona Centro

    Jardín Allende

    A landscaped square with a gazebo and benches
    Jardín Allende: the main square

    In addition to being the main square in town, it’s also the largest open-air venue in San Miguel de Allende. The adjacent streets around the jardín are pedestrianized, widening the usable public space.

    Keep an eye on the cultural calendar to find out what concerts and performances including traditional dances will take place while you’re there.

    You can also check out the programs of small theatres such as Teatro Santa Ana, Teatro Angel Peralta. 

    The St.Paul’s Anglican Church hosts piano, violin and other classical instrument concerts regularly.



    The Lovely Cobblestone Streets and Preserved Architectural Details

    Colourful narrow streets leading to a church in the distance
    The streets of San Miguel de Allende

    Your daily dose of colour inspo is guaranteed when you walk on the cobblestone streets of San Miguel de Allende. 

    As you jump on and off the barely-there sidewalk every time you meet someone you spot the little details that make this town so special. 

    I’m not talking about the grandiosity of the churches and the houses, which stand out by themselves. I’m talking about the old street signs, the old public fountains (like the cajas de agua in Queretaro City), the corner niches in the buildings.

    A historic fountain
    An old door knocker in bronze
    A corner niche in a street with a small statue
    The little details that make San Miguel de Allende special

    And of course the doors (an obsession of mine) with all sorts of carvings, creative decorations, and quirky door knockers.


    The Beauty of the Rugged Landscape and its Wildlife (El Charco del Ingenio Botanical Garden)

    Get inspired by the semi-desert landscape of San Miguel de Allende like the artists whose sculptures you can admire at El Charco del Ingenio Botanical Garden.

    The loop that takes you through the garden starts at the top of a cliff with a bird’s eye view of the water reservoir (tons of birds there) before walking down on a trail going through a scrubland full of regional plants and trees, shrubs and cacti. 

    A view of a water reservoir through cacti and shrubs
    View from the upper trails

    You may recognize the nopales (the flat, oval, and prickly cactus leaf with a prickly pear on top). They’re delicious on salads and in tlacoyos!

    At the reservoir, you’ll see resident and migratory birds taking refuge in wetlands created on the artificial islands. 

    In this relaxing spot, we saw great egrets, vermillion flycatchers, ducks, black-necked stilt, broad-billed hummingbirds, and a couple of turtles too.

    Woman sitting at the banks of a water reservoir
    A quiet moment at the reservoir
    Two turtles on a rock in the water
    Turtles
    A hummingbird on a branch
    Broad-billed hummingbird
    A water reservoir with birds in wetlands
    Black-necked stilts

    Stop by the nearby Conservatory of Mexican Plants to see varieties brought from all over the country – some near extinction-, the agave garden and the outdoor pond with aquatic plants and native fish. 

    A garden with plants of the semi desert landscape
    The Agave Garden
    A conservatory
    The Conservatory

    Head to the dam area for a beautiful view from the canyon lookout and to find the ruins of the old watermill. If you were wondering about what El Charco del Ingenio means, it’s The Pool of the Mill.

    Woman standing at an edge overlooking a canyon
    View of the canyon from the old mill

    Before going uphill check out the view from The Starship, a labyrinth created by Wilhelm Holderied. In his own words, he built “…a geographical bridge between heaven and Earth, a poetic space whose silence evokes that connection between the Earth and the mantle of the stars”.

    Right after the mill, you’ll find the Pool of The Chan: this is the pool that inspired the name of the reserve. According to the legend, it’s the abode of a mythical being known as El Chan who unleashes its rage onto anyone who has the terrible idea of approaching it.

    Maybe El Chan was asleep but I lived to tell the tale after getting as close as possible to see the pool, constantly fed by an underground spring.

    A pool in a canyon
    El Chan was kind to me

    My favourite view comes next. From the westside scenic viewpoints from where you can admire the magnificence of the canyon, with the aqueduct and San Miguel in the distance, and the Sierra of Guanajuato far away.

    Video showing the canyon

    Go next to the Sculpture’s Trail where you’ll see artwork with strong connections to the native culture of the region. 

    An outdoor sculpture
    A Suchil, a religious offering

    It leads to The Four Winds Square, a ceremonial space where you can enjoy panoramic views of the canyon and the dam. 

    A square with a floor mosaic
    The Four Winds square with the Holy Cross of El Charco del Ingenio

    The four circles on the floor mosaic, based on the Tolteca-Chichimeca codex, represent the four cardinal points and four natural resources, with the sun and the moon at the centre. 

    Check the event schedule for workshops, concerts, and performances.

    The garden is a steep 40-minutes walk from the jardín (or you can take a taxi). They offer guided tours in English Tuesdays and Thursdays from 10AM to 12PM (MXN$ 150)

    El Charco del Ingenio Botanic Garden

    Paloma, Las Colonias; Open every day: 9AM-5PM; Admission: MXN$ 50


    The Fun Workshops to Connect with the Artist Community

    You can see wonderful artwork wandering the markets and art galleries, join art walks, visit artists’ studios, and/or roll up your sleeves and sign up for the many workshops you’ll find here (some of them in English). 

    San Miguel de Allende is home to a vibrant community of artists and art lovers, making it an ideal place to dip your toes into this world or learn a new technique to improve your craft.

    Have fun at wine and paint sessions or enrol in pottery, textiles, or drawing workshops (check the Ignacio Ramirez Cultural Centre courses). 

    Look around and you won’t run out of inspiration to create your own masterpiece.


    BONUS TIP

    I have to share with you the amazing food and desserts I find along. 

    For delicious pastries, croissants, pies, and cakes go to Panio. I also loved the design of their cafe. They’re one block from the Jardín, on Calle Relox, but they have other locations.

    Try the ice cream at Nieves”Las Monjas”. I loved the cheese with blackberries flavour. They’re behind the Ignacio Ramírez Cultural Centre, on Calle Canal.


    Day trips from San Miguel de Allende

    A 1.5-hour bus ride takes you to other lovely towns to explore even more the fascinating architecture of Mexico.

    Visit Historic Dolores Hidalgo

    A square with a monument
    Jardín del Grande Hidalgo

    One hour from San Miguel de Allende you’ll find a small city with big historical significance -known as the birthplace of Mexico’s independence- and with some of the most stunning church interiors.

    The bus station is only three blocks away from the beautiful main square (Jardín del Grande Hidalgo) with a statue of Miguel Hidalgo, “The Father of the Homeland”, from 1887. 

    Right across is the Parish of Our Lady of the Sorrows (Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores), an 18th century church in Baroque Churrigueresque-style. 

    A historic church with stone façade
    The Parish of Our Lady of the Sorrows

    In the morning of September 16th 1810, Miguel Hidalgo rang the bells of the church: Get up people! It’s time to kick the Spaniards out of here! That is known as El Grito de Dolores (The Shout of Dolores), marking the start of the war of independence.

    Note: as much as we love to celebrate Cinco de Mayo with margaritas and tacos, Mexico’s independence date is not May 5th, but September 16th.

    The central façade reminds me of the Old Convent of San Antonio in San Miguel de Allende.

    The church is undeniably beautiful on the outside but that’s nothing compared to what you’ll see inside. The magic happens when you see the side altars so make sure you walk all the way down.

    They’re so stunning I almost fell off my perch. 

    A heavily decorated side altar with details in gold in a church
    The Virgin of Guadalupe side altar
    A heavily carved wood altar in a church
    The St. Joseph side altar
    A zoom of wood carvings in an altar and a decorated ceiling in a church
    Detail of St. Joseph altar and the dome

    One block from the square you’ll find the Church of the Third Order (Iglesia de la Tercera Orden), from the 18th century and with blue local glazed tile in the façade.

    A historic church with a stone façade and glazed tiles
    The Church of the Third Order

    You’ll see more glazed tiles decorating the gazebo and the fountain of the small square across the street, known as the Musician Square (Jardín de Los Compositores Dolorenses).

    Two blocks from there you’ll see the Parish of the Ascension (Parroquia de la Asunción), built at the end of the 19th century, with a mix of Neoclassical and Gothic style and with a dome covered by glazed tiles on the outside.

    Don’t miss the amazing murals from Pedro Ramírez inside.

    A church in Gothic and Neoclassical style
    A mural with a scene from the Bible
    The Parish of the Ascension

    Dolores Hidalgo is a great destination for a day trip from San Miguel de Allende. Just seeing the side altars of Our Lady of Sorrows is worth the trip.

    While you’re there, enjoy lunch at one of the restaurant’s patios (we loved El Fruty, close to the main square), and try the ice cream from La Flor de Dolores with flavours like corn, lavender cream, cactus, and avocado.

    From the San Miguel de Allende bus station take the Flecha Amarilla bus to Dolores Hidalgo. The trip is around 1.25 hours.

    Explore Artsy Queretaro City

    A cloister in an old convent
    Queretaro’s Museum of Art

    My favourite city in Mexico: a charming historic centre, fountains and sculptures everywhere, and gorgeous architecture. What else can I say? If you have a chance to go there (and stay overnight), don’t think twice. Check out my detailed post on what to do in Queretaro.

    From the San Miguel de Allende bus station take the ETN bus (or Futura Select) to Queretaro.The trip is around 1.5 hours

    Go to Beautiful Guanajuato

    The decorated soffit of a church
    The Basilica of Our Lady of Guanajuato

    Find out why it has earned a spot in the “Most beautiful towns in Mexico” lists. The view of the church domes standing out against what looks like a sea of multicolour boxes is unforgettable. Read my detailed post on what to do in Guanajuato.

    If possible, stay at least two days.

    From the San Miguel de Allende bus station take the Primera Plus bus to Guanajuato bus station (1.5 hours) and then take the local bus to the Centro.


    San Miguel de Allende vs. Guanajuato 

    You’ll come across many articles comparing these two sites. Which one is better? Which one is more ”authentic”? Which one should I visit? Well, this is my take on this duel of titans. 

    Which one should you visit? If you have time, I will say both, of course. Even if it’s for a half-day trip.

    If you really, really have to choose, here are some things that will help you make your decision.

    -San Miguel de Allende has a large expat population (about 10%), mainly retired Americans. We heard a lot of English everywhere: at the Jardín (main square), at the pharmacy, at the cafes. 

    A large percentage live around the colonial zone which has driven the real estate prices up and has forced most locals to move out (read: gentrification).

    It has become some sort of gringo town in a Mexican environment. It’s rare to find a mix of expats and locals living side by side.

    On the other hand, Guanajuato has a small expat population that blends with the locals. So far there is no such thing as if you’re from here you live over there.

    So which one feels more like a true Mexican town, more let’s say, “authentic”?: Guanajuato. Hands down.

    -In terms of cost, San Miguel de Allende is more expensive (read the paragraphs above). Not “USA expensive”, but more than Guanajuato (hotels, meals, tours, crafts, everything).

    -Even though San Miguel has lovely terrace bars with great views, amazing restaurants (it has more gourmet places than Guanajuato), many cultural events, and receives thousands of national and international visitors, it’s more like a vibrant upscale “hippiesque” town.

    Guanajuato is a small university city with a much younger crowd. I’m not saying in any way shape or form that San Miguel is boring. It’s just a different vibe.

    -Both towns have amazing architecture and a busy art scene so whichever you choose you can’t go wrong (visit both if you can). However, San Miguel takes the first place when it comes to the number of art galleries and workshops available, creating more opportunities to interact with local artists.

    So, are you planning to visit both? If you must choose one, which one would it be?


    How to Get to San Miguel de Allende

    By Air

    The closest airports are the Bajío International Airport (BJX) in Guanajuato and the Querétaro International Airport (QRO), with direct flights from some cities in the U.S. and major airports in Mexico. 

    You can also fly to the Mexico City Benito Juárez International Airport (MEX), farther away, and fly from there to Queretaro or Guanajuato.

    By Bus

    The San Miguel de Allende bus station is a short taxi/Uber ride or a 15-minute uphill walk to the Centro. My preferred bus lines are Primera Plus and ETN as they have comfortable seats and safety procedures in place. You can get here by bus from the following destinations:

    From Santiago de Queretaro: 1.5 hours.You can also take the Futura Select bus.

    From Guanajuato City: 1 hour and 20 minutes.

    From Guadalajara: around 5.5 hours.

    From Mexico City (North Bus Terminal or Airport): the trip is between 3.5 and 4.5 hours, depending on your departure time. 

    Mexico City is huge. I list the North terminal as it’s the closest to San Miguel and to give you an idea of the travel time, but you may find another terminal closer to where you’re staying in the city.

    You can check bus schedules and ticket prices at primeraplus.com.mx or etn.com.mx


    San Miguel de Allende is an inspiring destination for art and design lovers thanks to its architecture, art galleries, natural treasures, and the large artist community. If you can’t stay several days, plan for at least a day trip to this great destination in Mexico.


    YOU MAY ALSO WANT TO READ

    A creek flowing in a forest

    Sierra Gorda de Queretaro: An Exciting 3-Day Getaway to Nature’s Paradise

    Ornamented arches in a baroque historic building

    29 Things to Do and See in Queretaro that Will Make you Want to Stay

    A colourful basilica in a historic town

    2-Day Itinerary in Historic Guanajuato: Best Things to See and Do


    BOOKING FLIGHTS AND ACCOMMODATIONS

    Book your flight without losing your shirt

    We check Momondo to find great deals to book our flights. Also, check Great Escape: it combines the listings from Expedia, Kiwi, Kayak, (and Skyscanner on the premium service) to find the best airfares.

    To find a place to stay for less

    Booking.com: this site combines everything under the sun. You’ll find hotels, apartments, B&B, hostels, rooms, etc., with all sort of filters to make your search a breeze.

    Hotwire: the first site I check when we plan to stay at a hotel for a few nights. You can save anything from 20% to 60%.  Use the search filter to find what you want and you’ll end up with three listings that match your criteria. You’ll know which one you’ll get after you book. If you can handle a little bit of uncertainty you can score big savings.

    House Sitting: you take care of people’s pets and house for free while staying for free. It’s the closest thing to experiencing a place “like a local”. But it comes with responsibilities… Are you an animal lover? It may become your new way to travel.

    To get travel insurance

    SafetyWing: travel medical insurance that gives us peace of mind knowing that we’re covered in case of emergency. It’s convenient, affordable, and suitable for digital nomads who spend a long time outside their home country.

    Check the full list of travel resources on my Resource Page for more options and savings

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    About Mayra Carvajal

    Hi, I’m Mayra. A full-time nomad with an appetite for travelling. Art and design are my salt and pepper, with a side order of nature and outdoors. When I’m not gazing at architecture or any other form of art, you’ll see me on a hiking trail, at the top of an ancient ruin, or under a beach umbrella. Here you’ll find practical tips for independent trips, travel stories, and images that may inspire you to explore a new place or high-five your creative muse. Read my About page if you want to learn more about how this site can help you travel more.

    Reader Interactions

    Comments

    1. Adriane

      March 18, 2022 at 3:21 AM

      These photos are absolutely amazing. What beautiful architecture. I would love to visit.

      • Mayra Carvajal

        March 18, 2022 at 10:37 AM

        Thanks! It’s a lovely destination that you can combine with many day trips.

    2. Eva Petruzziello

      March 18, 2022 at 9:51 AM

      This is so beautiful!

      • Mayra Carvajal

        March 18, 2022 at 10:35 AM

        Very beautiful place indeed.

    3. Tanya

      March 18, 2022 at 10:55 AM

      I love architecture and your pictures are stunning! Wow! I will definitely look into a trip to check it all out in person. 💕

      • Mayra Carvajal

        March 20, 2022 at 6:39 PM

        Thank you! San Miguel is a must if you’re into architecture.

    4. Ivana

      March 19, 2022 at 7:31 AM

      So many beautiful places! I’d love to visit 🙂

      • Mayra Carvajal

        March 20, 2022 at 6:40 PM

        If you love art you’ll have an amazing time here.

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