No matter how creative we all can be, we all need a booster shot of inspiration every now and then. You can take it by walking through a beautiful town or a nature preserve, by looking at different art media, or by working side by side with other artists and feeding on the collective energy.
San Miguel de Allende, a small town in the state of Guanajuato and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is an art enclave where you’ll find all of the above.
The ornamentation of the Baroque and Churrigueresque-style buildings is a dream. The local art and crafts you find at the markets and galleries are terrific, including the colourful wool blankets still woven by hand in the telares, a tradition that goes back hundreds of years.
You can take day trips to nearby enchanting towns to discover more architectural jewels.
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If you love art and design, you’ll feel at home here. Read more to find out why.
Table of Contents
The Stunning Ornamentation of the 17th and 18th-century Churches
You won’t run out of inspiration when you see all the swirly carvings in the buildings, the niches with sculptures, and the patterns on the massive wooden doors. Take a look at these ones:
The Parish of San Miguel Arcángel
You’ll see it in every single picture of San Miguel. It’s the tallest and most famous church in town, centrally located in front of Jardín Allende, where main cultural events take place.
This Neo Gothic-style church is from the 17th century, but the proliferation of Gaudi-esque pinnacles that look like the spikes of pink meringues is an addition from the late 19th century.
The elaborate interiors are framed by multiple stone arches (no pictures allowed inside).
Even though San Miguel is the most imposing church, it’s only a runner-up when compared to the beauty of other temples competing for the most stunning. More below.
Principal, Zona Centro
Iglesia de San Rafael y Torre del Reloj (Church of San Rafael and Clock Tower)
You may walk past this 18th-century church, also known as La Santa Escuela de Cristo (the Holy School of Christ) and don’t even realize it because it’s located to the left of San Miguel Arcángel, side by side. You may think it’s part of the mammoth next door, but it’s not.
If you don’t miss it you’ll notice the two-toned pink stones forming a pointed arch supported by Doric columns flanking the door. I loved that, but even more interesting is the design of the tower, reminiscent of Moorish decorations.
Correo, Zona Centro
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Salud (Church of Our Lady of Health)
The stone facade of this 18th-century church stopped me in my tracks, with a huge shell-like canopy forming a semi-concave entrance with smaller shells carved at the top of the five decorated niches.
It may be on the small side but it’s freaking unique, precious, with floral carvings everywhere typical of the Churrigueresque style (a type of Spanish Baroque).
Try to come back after dark to see it lit up. The lights on the rugged shapes add a magical effect.
It was hard to pick a favourite, but to me, this is the winner. Gold medal!
Soledad 7, Zona Centro
Old Convent of San Antonio
The peculiar cantera stone carvings on each side of the entrance caught my eye: three sinuous ornamented columns with variable depth that go from top to bottom, filled with many small sculptures.
It looks orderly and dynamic at the same type.
This 17th-century Franciscan temple was previously occupied by the San Antonio de Padua convent facing a lovely garden with benches and a fountain, surrounded by topiaries.
This is my second favourite church. I give it the Silver medal.
Bonus tip: there’s a trolley that takes you around the town on a historic route and it’s a great way to see points of interest if you’re short of time and to highlight what stops you would like to revisit.
San Francisco 14, Zona Centro
Oratory of San Felipe Neri
When I saw this 18th-century church in Baroque style I wondered if a giant had made his life mission to roll out floral and leaf designs with a texture roller on every single inch of the facade. Except this is not a clay slab (despite its reddish tone), but it’s all made in cantera stone, like most of the city.
Check out the door, which is original from the early 1700s.
It’s all crowned by a shell (not quite like the one from the Church of Our Lady of Health, though).
To me, this takes the bronze medal. Which one is your favourite?
Insurgentes 12, Zona Centro
Walking Tour of San Miguel: this 2-hour tour gives you an insight into the art, culture, history, and architecture by visiting many interesting sites. 15 people max.
Book this tour, with a rating of 4.9/5 based on more than 275 reviews.
Do you prefer a private tour to go at your own pace? Check out this one, with a rating of 4.9/5 based on more than 240 reviews.
The Enriching Programs of the Many Cultural Centres and Galleries
If there’s something you can count on in San Miguel is finding a good concert, an interesting exhibit, a performance, or all of them. There’s always something going on here every day.
Beyond the cultural events, visiting some venues is an experience in itself as they’re located inside old convents or houses.
Check these out:
Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramírez El Nigromante
Housed inside the pink walls of a former convent from the 18th century turned first into a school and turned into barracks during the revolution, this cultural centre has promoted Mexican and international art since 1962.
See their temporary exhibits and don’t miss a gem on permanent display on their walls: 1940s frescoes from some of Mexico’s great muralists such as David Alfaro Siqueiros (with an unfinished mural since he walked out of the job in protest) and Pedro Martínez.
Sit under the shade of tall trees and relax listening to the sound of the fountain in the cloister, framed by arches. This peaceful space is filled with music and movement when it turns into a space for concerts and theatre plays.
Hernández Macías 75, Zona Centro
Citibanamex Cultural Centre – Casa del Mayorazgo de la Canal
Another case where the space in itself is a work of art, starting with the exquisitely carved monumental door with the statue of the Virgin of Loreto watching you from above.
This gorgeous 18th-century house has rotating exhibits and a store selling beautiful books and crafts.
You can join free guided tours of the house every day except Mondays.
Conde de La Cana 4, Zona Centro
Jardín Allende
In addition to being the main square in town, it’s also the largest open-air venue in San Miguel de Allende. The adjacent streets around the jardín are pedestrianized, widening the usable public space.
Keep an eye on the cultural calendar to find out what concerts and performances including traditional dances will take place while you’re there.
You can also check out the programs of small theatres such as Teatro Santa Ana, Teatro Angel Peralta.
The St.Paul’s Anglican Church hosts piano, violin and other classical instrument concerts regularly.
The Lovely Cobblestone Streets and Preserved Architectural Details
Your daily dose of colour inspo is guaranteed when you walk on the cobblestone streets of San Miguel de Allende.
As you jump on and off the barely-there sidewalk every time you meet someone you spot the little details that make this town so special.
I’m not talking about the grandiosity of the churches and the houses, which stand out by themselves. I’m talking about the old street signs, the old public fountains (like the cajas de agua in Queretaro City), the corner niches in the buildings.
And of course the doors (an obsession of mine) with all sorts of carvings, creative decorations, and quirky door knockers.
The Beauty of the Rugged Landscape and its Wildlife (El Charco del Ingenio Botanical Garden)
Get inspired by the semi-desert landscape of San Miguel de Allende like the artists whose sculptures you can admire at El Charco del Ingenio Botanical Garden.
The loop that takes you through the garden starts at the top of a cliff with a bird’s eye view of the water reservoir (tons of birds there) before walking down on a trail going through a scrubland full of regional plants and trees, shrubs and cacti.
You may recognize the nopales (the flat, oval, and prickly cactus leaf with a prickly pear on top). They’re delicious on salads and in tlacoyos!
At the reservoir, you’ll see resident and migratory birds taking refuge in wetlands created on the artificial islands.
In this relaxing spot, we saw great egrets, vermillion flycatchers, ducks, black-necked stilt, broad-billed hummingbirds, and a couple of turtles too.
Stop by the nearby Conservatory of Mexican Plants to see varieties brought from all over the country – some near extinction-, the agave garden and the outdoor pond with aquatic plants and native fish.
Head to the dam area for a beautiful view from the canyon lookout and to find the ruins of the old watermill. If you were wondering about what El Charco del Ingenio means, it’s The Pool of the Mill.
Before going uphill check out the view from The Starship, a labyrinth created by Wilhelm Holderied. In his own words, he built “…a geographical bridge between heaven and Earth, a poetic space whose silence evokes that connection between the Earth and the mantle of the stars”.
Right after the mill, you’ll find the Pool of The Chan: this is the pool that inspired the name of the reserve. According to the legend, it’s the abode of a mythical being known as El Chan who unleashes its rage onto anyone who has the terrible idea of approaching it.
Maybe El Chan was asleep but I lived to tell the tale after getting as close as possible to see the pool, constantly fed by an underground spring.
My favourite view comes next. From the westside scenic viewpoints from where you can admire the magnificence of the canyon, with the aqueduct and San Miguel in the distance, and the Sierra of Guanajuato far away.
Go next to the Sculpture’s Trail where you’ll see artwork with strong connections to the native culture of the region.
It leads to The Four Winds Square, a ceremonial space where you can enjoy panoramic views of the canyon and the dam.
The four circles on the floor mosaic, based on the Tolteca-Chichimeca codex, represent the four cardinal points and four natural resources, with the sun and the moon at the centre.
Check the event schedule for workshops, concerts, and performances.
The garden is a steep 40-minutes walk from the jardín (or you can take a taxi). They offer guided tours in English Tuesdays and Thursdays from 10AM to 12PM (MXN$ 150)
El Charco del Ingenio Botanic Garden
Paloma, Las Colonias; Open every day: 9AM-5PM; Admission: MXN$ 50
The Fun Workshops to Connect with the Artist Community
You can see wonderful artwork wandering the markets and art galleries, join art walks, visit artists’ studios, and/or roll up your sleeves and sign up for the many workshops you’ll find here (some of them in English).
San Miguel de Allende is home to a vibrant community of artists and art lovers, making it an ideal place to dip your toes into this world or learn a new technique to improve your craft.
Have fun at wine and paint sessions or enrol in pottery, textiles, or drawing workshops (check the Ignacio Ramirez Cultural Centre courses).
Look around and you won’t run out of inspiration to create your own masterpiece.
BONUS TIP
I have to share with you the amazing food and desserts I find along.
For delicious pastries, croissants, pies, and cakes go to Panio. I also loved the design of their cafe. They’re one block from the Jardín, on Calle Relox, but they have other locations.
Try the ice cream at Nieves”Las Monjas”. I loved the cheese with blackberries flavour. They’re behind the Ignacio Ramírez Cultural Centre, on Calle Canal.
Day trips from San Miguel de Allende
A 1.5-hour bus ride takes you to other lovely towns to explore even more the fascinating architecture of Mexico.
Visit Historic Dolores Hidalgo
One hour from San Miguel de Allende you’ll find a small city with big historical significance -known as the birthplace of Mexico’s independence- and with some of the most stunning church interiors.
The bus station is only three blocks away from the beautiful main square (Jardín del Grande Hidalgo) with a statue of Miguel Hidalgo, “The Father of the Homeland”, from 1887.
Right across is the Parish of Our Lady of the Sorrows (Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores), an 18th century church in Baroque Churrigueresque-style.
In the morning of September 16th 1810, Miguel Hidalgo rang the bells of the church: Get up people! It’s time to kick the Spaniards out of here! That is known as El Grito de Dolores (The Shout of Dolores), marking the start of the war of independence.
Note: as much as we love to celebrate Cinco de Mayo with margaritas and tacos, Mexico’s independence date is not May 5th, but September 16th.
The central façade reminds me of the Old Convent of San Antonio in San Miguel de Allende.
The church is undeniably beautiful on the outside but that’s nothing compared to what you’ll see inside. The magic happens when you see the side altars so make sure you walk all the way down.
They’re so stunning I almost fell off my perch.
One block from the square you’ll find the Church of the Third Order (Iglesia de la Tercera Orden), from the 18th century and with blue local glazed tile in the façade.
You’ll see more glazed tiles decorating the gazebo and the fountain of the small square across the street, known as the Musician Square (Jardín de Los Compositores Dolorenses).
Two blocks from there you’ll see the Parish of the Ascension (Parroquia de la Asunción), built at the end of the 19th century, with a mix of Neoclassical and Gothic style and with a dome covered by glazed tiles on the outside.
Don’t miss the amazing murals from Pedro Ramírez inside.
Dolores Hidalgo is a great destination for a day trip from San Miguel de Allende. Just seeing the side altars of Our Lady of Sorrows is worth the trip.
While you’re there, enjoy lunch at one of the restaurant’s patios (we loved El Fruty, close to the main square), and try the ice cream from La Flor de Dolores with flavours like corn, lavender cream, cactus, and avocado.
From the San Miguel de Allende bus station take the Flecha Amarilla bus to Dolores Hidalgo. The trip is around 1.25 hours.
Explore Artsy Queretaro City
My favourite city in Mexico: a charming historic centre, fountains and sculptures everywhere, and gorgeous architecture. What else can I say? If you have a chance to go there (and stay overnight), don’t think twice. Check out my detailed post on what to do in Queretaro.
From the San Miguel de Allende bus station take the ETN bus (or Futura Select) to Queretaro.The trip is around 1.5 hours
Go to Beautiful Guanajuato
Find out why it has earned a spot in the “Most beautiful towns in Mexico” lists. The view of the church domes standing out against what looks like a sea of multicolour boxes is unforgettable. Read my detailed post on what to do in Guanajuato.
If possible, stay at least two days.
From the San Miguel de Allende bus station take the Primera Plus bus to Guanajuato bus station (1.5 hours) and then take the local bus to the Centro.
San Miguel de Allende vs. Guanajuato
You’ll come across many articles comparing these two sites. Which one is better? Which one is more ”authentic”? Which one should I visit? Well, this is my take on this duel of titans.
Which one should you visit? If you have time, I will say both, of course. Even if it’s for a half-day trip.
If you really, really have to choose, here are some things that will help you make your decision.
-San Miguel de Allende has a large expat population (about 10%), mainly retired Americans. We heard a lot of English everywhere: at the Jardín (main square), at the pharmacy, at the cafes.
A large percentage live around the colonial zone which has driven the real estate prices up and has forced most locals to move out (read: gentrification).
It has become some sort of gringo town in a Mexican environment. It’s rare to find a mix of expats and locals living side by side.
On the other hand, Guanajuato has a small expat population that blends with the locals. So far there is no such thing as if you’re from here you live over there.
So which one feels more like a true Mexican town, more let’s say, “authentic”?: Guanajuato. Hands down.
-In terms of cost, San Miguel de Allende is more expensive (read the paragraphs above). Not “USA expensive”, but more than Guanajuato (hotels, meals, tours, crafts, everything).
-Even though San Miguel has lovely terrace bars with great views, amazing restaurants (it has more gourmet places than Guanajuato), many cultural events, and receives thousands of national and international visitors, it’s more like a vibrant upscale “hippiesque” town.
Guanajuato is a small university city with a much younger crowd. I’m not saying in any way shape or form that San Miguel is boring. It’s just a different vibe.
-Both towns have amazing architecture and a busy art scene so whichever you choose you can’t go wrong (visit both if you can). However, San Miguel takes the first place when it comes to the number of art galleries and workshops available, creating more opportunities to interact with local artists.
So, are you planning to visit both? If you must choose one, which one would it be?
How to Get to San Miguel de Allende
By Air
The closest airports are the Bajío International Airport (BJX) in Guanajuato and the Querétaro International Airport (QRO), with direct flights from some cities in the U.S. and major airports in Mexico.
You can also fly to the Mexico City Benito Juárez International Airport (MEX), farther away, and fly from there to Queretaro or Guanajuato.
By Bus
The San Miguel de Allende bus station is a short taxi/Uber ride or a 15-minute uphill walk to the Centro. My preferred bus lines are Primera Plus and ETN as they have comfortable seats and safety procedures in place. You can get here by bus from the following destinations:
From Santiago de Queretaro: 1.5 hours.You can also take the Futura Select bus.
From Guanajuato City: 1 hour and 20 minutes.
From Guadalajara: around 5.5 hours.
From Mexico City (North Bus Terminal or Airport): the trip is between 3.5 and 4.5 hours, depending on your departure time.
Mexico City is huge. I list the North terminal as it’s the closest to San Miguel and to give you an idea of the travel time, but you may find another terminal closer to where you’re staying in the city.
You can check bus schedules and ticket prices at primeraplus.com.mx or etn.com.mx
San Miguel de Allende is an inspiring destination for art and design lovers thanks to its architecture, art galleries, natural treasures, and the large artist community. If you can’t stay several days, plan for at least a day trip to this great destination in Mexico.
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BOOKING FLIGHTS AND ACCOMMODATIONS
Book your flight without losing your shirt
We check Momondo to find great deals to book our flights. Also, check Great Escape: it combines the listings from Expedia, Kiwi, Kayak, (and Skyscanner on the premium service) to find the best airfares.
To find a place to stay for less
Booking.com: this site combines everything under the sun. You’ll find hotels, apartments, B&B, hostels, rooms, etc., with all sort of filters to make your search a breeze.
Hotwire: the first site I check when we plan to stay at a hotel for a few nights. You can save anything from 20% to 60%. Use the search filter to find what you want and you’ll end up with three listings that match your criteria. You’ll know which one you’ll get after you book. If you can handle a little bit of uncertainty you can score big savings.
House Sitting: you take care of people’s pets and house for free while staying for free. It’s the closest thing to experiencing a place “like a local”. But it comes with responsibilities… Are you an animal lover? It may become your new way to travel.
To get travel insurance
SafetyWing: travel medical insurance that gives us peace of mind knowing that we’re covered in case of emergency. It’s convenient, affordable, and suitable for digital nomads who spend a long time outside their home country.
Check the full list of travel resources on my Resource Page for more options and savings
These photos are absolutely amazing. What beautiful architecture. I would love to visit.
Thanks! It’s a lovely destination that you can combine with many day trips.
This is so beautiful!
Very beautiful place indeed.
I love architecture and your pictures are stunning! Wow! I will definitely look into a trip to check it all out in person. 💕
Thank you! San Miguel is a must if you’re into architecture.
So many beautiful places! I’d love to visit 🙂
If you love art you’ll have an amazing time here.