You may think Fort Pulaski National Monument is only about the fort, but there’s more to it. Actually, you can spend the whole day on Cockspur Island (where the fort is) and not even visit the fort (Oh, but I wouldn’t miss it if I were you).
At this historic landmark -15 miles from Savannah and five miles from Tybee Island- you can enjoy different outdoor activities, learn about events that changed the course of history, and tour an impressive military facility.
You can also plan the visit as a day trip from Charleston or from Hilton Head Island.
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Read on for a brief history of the site and to learn how you can spend a fun day at Fort Pulaski National Monument.
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A Brief History of Fort Pulaski and Cockspur Island
From a military point of view, Cockspur Island couldn’t be more strategic. It’s right at the mouth of the Savannah River, and it’s sandwiched between the north and the south channel of the river.
So it’s no surprise that through the years it has been a precious spot for safeguarding the harbour.
First came Fort George in 1761. It was torn down by the Revolutionaries because it couldn’t withstand the attack of the British.
Then came Fort Greene, and it was wiped out by a hurricane.
And last came Fort Pulaski, which isn’t going anywhere.
How did it start?
A young Robert E. Lee took a job as an assistant engineer to oversee the construction, selecting the site and designing the drainage system that cleared the island’s salt marshes.
The construction crew, which included enslaved men rented from plantations, moved to Cockspur Island to work on the project.
18 years and 25 million bricks later, Fort Pulaski was completed in 1847.
About 80% of those bricks (the gray ones) came from Hermitage Plantation -located a few miles outside of Savannah- and were handmade by enslaved men, women, and children. Look closely and you’ll see their handprints and fingerprints here and there.
Once completed, the US Army was proud of the work. Wow! Look at the big, powerful, amazing thing we built!
But then the Civil War started in 1861, and Georgia was a Confederate state. The Union forces had to take control.
When Colonel Charles Olmstead was named the fort commander in 1861, he was told the fort was invincible.
Strong, yes. But not invincible.
The Union army not only knew the site well, but they also had an ace under their sleeves: brand spanking new rifled cannons that spun bullet-shaped ammunition with enough reach to hit their target from their position on Tybee Island.
For two months they had been painstakingly building 11 batteries across the South channel of the river, sneaking their artillery at night and placing it in strategic points.
The battle lasted 30 hours and after 5,275 shots that ended up collapsing the nearly eight-foot-thick walls, the Confederates surrendered and that was it.
1862 was the beginning of the end of slavery.
Enslaved people self-emancipated, left the plantations, and flocked to the fort seeking refuge. They moved into the former houses of construction workers, helped with general labour in the fort, and shared juicy details with the Union forces for easier navigation of the area.
Controlling the fort also meant controlling the boat traffic in the Savannah River. They blocked access to stop the trade at the Savannah port, but it took three more years to conquer Savannah.
The Civil War continued until 1865, but the victory at Fort Pulaski was a major turning point.
After the conflicts the place was abandoned, looking like the movie set of Jumanji until 1924, when it became a National Monument. Works to improve the drainage system started in 1930, a task that is ongoing ever since, with restoration starting in 1933.
Fort Pulaski returned to its military roots one more time during World War II.
In 1947 it reopened its doors to visitors.
Who Was Casimir Pulaski?
You may have read about Pulaski in my blog post about Savannah, or you may have read his name in a monument, a square, or the battlefield memorial while you were visiting the city.
Casimir Pulaski fought to liberate Poland from Russia. He had to flee his country after they lost, met Benjamin Franklin, and was impressed with the American independence cause. I’m in!
He arrived in Boston determined to help however he could.
Pulaski ended up commanding a cavalry but in October 1779, while fighting in the Battle of Savannah, he was fatally wounded and died two days later.
He is buried under the monument that bears his name in Monterey Square, Savannah.
Things to Do at Fort Pulaski
Visit Fort Pulaski
Of course, this is a big one and it’s totally worth it (but it’s not the only one).
The Visitor Centre
Start at the Visitor Centre where you can learn more about the history of the fort, see artifacts that were part of the fort’s daily life, and samples of ammunition used during the battle.
Also check out the fort’s model showing a section of the fortification, its layers (it has an oyster shell layer!), and the pilings dug in the marsh mud to support the weight of the structure. If you’re into architecture and construction you’ll love it.
The Demilune
From there you can explore the demilune (half-moon in French), surrounded by a seven-feet deep moat and designed to protect the entrance of the fort.
The earthen mounds you see (they look like mini mountains) were added in 1872 -after the Civil War ended- to store powder magazines and for safeguarding.
You can wander around and check out the rooms inside.
This was the last project tackled by the Army before they left for good in 1873.
Prior to this addition, the flat terrain had, among other things, a kitchen to feed the troops.
The Drawbridge and the Rooms Along the Gorge Wall
To enter the fort you’ll cross the drawbridge where you can still see the original wooden doors.
Turn left and you’ll walk along the gorge wall visiting restored rooms with period furniture, historic artifacts, and photographs that draw a detailed story about life in Fort Pulaski before and after the battle.
I felt like I had entered a time machine.
At the Quartermaster’s room, you’ll learn about the artillery used at the fort and the equipment to operate the cannons.
Then you walk into the chapel -religious services were an important ritual for the soldiers- before entering the officer’s quarters, showing the accommodations of higher-ranking officers.
As the number of troops occupying the fort nearly tripled after the battle, soldiers were scattered everywhere, sometimes right next to the cannons in the casemates (where many of them would also cook their own meals), sometimes in tents outside the fort.
After a couple more rooms you’ll find the setup of the commanding officer’s quarters.
Higher rank meant bigger rooms, nicer furniture, and the best prize: privacy. Some of them invited their wives to spend some time at the fort.
The Gunpowder Magazine, the Heavy Artillery Display, and the Barracks
Holy Cow! We’re going to blow up with our own gunpowder!
The Confederate army panicked when they saw projectiles flying from the other corner of the fort, poking the 12-feet thick walls storing 40,000 pounds of explosive.
Two hours later, they surrendered.
After you check out the magazine on the northwest corner you’ll find a display of heavy artillery with original sling carts and original smoothbore cannons (the ones that fire the round balls).
The fort had a capacity for 146 cannons, but it didn’t hold even half of that, leaving empty casemates (the vaulted ceiling “rooms”) to be used as barracks.
After Union forces took over, they painted the casemates white to make the space brighter.
And in an attempt to make it a home away from home (many of the soldiers were from New York), they personalized it by doing some lettering on its walls.
To have fun soldiers would stage plays, form bands, and play baseball.
The Prison at Fort Pulaski
You have now reached the south side of the fort, where Union forces turned the casemates into prison cells for Confederate officers from October 1864 until March 1865, when they were sent to Delaware.
It was dark, damp, and overcrowded. Food was scarce. The right environment for the spread of disease (13 prisoners of war died here).
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The Breaching Point, the Construction Details in the Southwest Bastion and the Surrender Room.
After you check out the prison cells you’ll see the mark showing where the rifled artillery destroyed the fort’s walls. Six weeks later it was like nothing happened after the Union forces reconstructed the walls, leaving a few damages exposed as a reminder of the breaching point.
You’ll see more dramatic scars from the top and on the exterior.
What’s next is one of my favourite areas as you can see the amazing construction details of Fort Pulaski.
The Southwest Bastion burned in a fire in 1895, exposing the reverse arches that support the weight of the fort and everything in it. Below, there are pilings that keep this whole thing stable (remember this was a marsh).
This is where the model of the fort you saw in the Visitor Centre comes to life!
Right after walking past the dark confinement room you’ll see the surrender room.
Can you imagine how Col. Olmstead felt when he ordered the rise of the white flag after being told that Fort Pulaski was invincible? That he had nothing to fear?
Whatever he felt, he felt it in this room.
Within these walls, he discussed with the Union commander the conditions of the surrender, which ended up being none. After that, the Confederate soldiers became Prisoners of War.
The Terreplein (or the Top Part of the Fort)
Take the stairs to the terreplein for a fantastic view of the demilune, the inner side of the fort, the trails, and beyond.
You can walk all around the ramparts and see the artillery on display (some of them are original and in the fort during the battle) and part of the damage inflicted on the fort.
If you don’t have time or you’re not keen on checking out the trails, try at least to do the moat walk. It’s a short loop where you’ll have a clear view of the wounds of the battle. You may even spot some of the shots still stuck in the walls.
This is a big fort with many interesting displays and historic artifacts. You can spend a couple of hours learning about the history and the construction of this mammoth.
You can also visit the gift shop inside the fort.
Visit the Other Monuments at Fort Pulaski
They may not be as spectacular and grandiose as the fort, but they have a major historical significance (and some great views of the harbour).
The Historic Cockspur Lighthouse
A curious fact about the lighthouse, built in 1849 (architect: John S. Norris), is that despite being standing in the middle of a 30-hour non-stop bombardment, it wasn’t destroyed. What saved it? The shots had to be fired high up to reach the target, flying over it.
But you won’t see the original structure anyway, as a hurricane wiped it out in 1854.
So in 1856 a new 46-foot-tall brick lighthouse went up and it was damaged again after two other hurricanes.
In 1909 it stopped working when the ships started sailing on the north channel of the Savannah River, but it stands as a reminder of the Civil War and as one of the five lighthouses left in Georgia.
Today, it’s being restored and you can only see it from a distance (from the overlook of the Lighthouse Trail or from your kayak).
The Battery Hambright
In 1898, during the Spanish American War, a few troops occupied the island to protect a minefield in the Savannah harbour in conjunction with Fort Screven on Tybee Island.
After the war, the army built this battery taking lessons learned from the attack on Fort Pulaski. No more brick forts, now it was all about concrete and steel.
But it was never used and the two fire-rapid guns it had space for were never installed.
If you go to the top of the battery you’ll have an amazing view of the river and the huge cargo ships navigating the channel.
The John Wesley Monument
Near the Battery, you’ll find the monument to John Wesley, the founder of the Methodist Church. He set foot on American soil for the first time right here on Cockspur Island (they called it Peerper Island back then) in 1736. He delivered his first sermon after Oglethorpe, the founder of Savannah, led him through the island.
Birdwatching and Other Wildlife Sightings at Fort Pulaski
Are you into birding? You’ll love it here.
You can see shorebirds, song birds, and wading birds all year round, and migratory birds from Spring through Fall.
You may spot any of the 11 protected species commonly seen here, including bald eagles, wood storks, and peregrine falcons, in addition to pelicans, ospreys, hawks, and owls.
The state coastline is part of the Western Hemisphere Shorebird Reserve Network (WHSRN), an international network that helps countries in the entire continent in their efforts to preserve bird habitats. This means tons of nesting sites = tons of birds.
Other wildlife present on the island are white-tailed deer, otters, alligators, coyotes, raccoons, and snakes.
You may even spot dolphins and manatees.
Bring your binoculars and your camera.
Explore the Walking Trails and Kayak Along the Shore
You can explore the grounds of the island by walking or bicycling the trails.
They’re short enough to do them all in half a day and you’ll have different subjects of interest and points of view on each one.
The Dike System Trail
This is a 1.8 mile loop (2.9 Kms.) on flat terrain
This is the longest loop and it will take you on a grass road through the dikes and ditches that keep the land of the fort dry, a system designed by Robert E. Lee in 1829.
We saw tons of Great Egrets here.
The Lighthouse Trail
This is a 1.7 miles (1.2 Kms.) loop on flat terrain.0.75 mile (1.2 Km)
The first part of the trail goes through an open marsh, great for spotting birds, before entering a narrower, sandy path with beautiful Sabal palms.
Right before the return point, where you’ll find an overlook with the best view of the Lighthouse, you’ll see tons of fiddler crabs. A feast for the birds.
The Moat Walk
Short and sweet: 0.5 mile loop (0.8 Kms) on flat terrain
You’ll walk around the moat from where you can see the damage of the bombardment and count how many projectiles you can see on the walls.
You’ll see jumping fish and if you’re lucky you may see an alligator.
The North Pier Loop
This is a 0.75 miles loop (1.2 Kms) on flat terrain
This is the trail you take to check out the Battery and the John Wesley Monument. It’s also the trail that takes you to one of my favourite places on the island: the historic North Pier.
I loved sitting on this quiet spot watching the shorebirds running around, with gentle waves crashing on the sand until the larger-than-life cargo ships sailed across creating stronger waves and giving the birds something to chirp about.
If I would’ve been standing here during the occupation of Fort Pulaski I would be describing to you a hectic environment with barrels and bags being carried around, and people coming to and from the fort. This was its lifeline.
Kayaking Around Fort Pulaski
A great way to see wildlife closer is kayaking around the marshes. You’ll also be able to get closer to the lighthouse (you’re not allowed to set foot on it, though).
To launch your kayak you need to head to the Lazaretto Creek Boat Ramp, located east of the park entrance (North side of U.S. Highway 80). There’s no cost to use the boat ramp.
You can also take a guided tour, which would be the best option if you’re not an experienced kayaker and you don’t want to risk getting stranded on low tide.
Bonus tip: bring enough water, sunscreen, a hat, sunglasses, and bug repellant. Especially if you’re visiting during the summer. If possible, plan your visit for spring or fall so you don’t have to deal with high levels of heat and humidity.
Have a Picnic (and Eat Your Catch)
This is a great plus if you’re planning to spend the entire day here. The picnic area is set up in a pleasant location with decent tables under the shade of tall trees and more tables in a covered pavilion. No reservations are required.
Fishing is allowed (not on the moat, canals, or dikes) so you can have your fresh catch right here (no permit needed but you’ll need a Georgia fishing license). You can fish from the bridge that takes you to Cockspur Island before the park opens (or after it closes).
You can access the picnic area by walking or bicycling on the Picnic Area Trail, 0.5 miles (0.8 Kms.) from the parking lot, or you can make your life easier by driving directly to the area by taking the Cockspur Island Road.
Since Fort Pulaski is dog friendly you can bring Fido to the party (but must be kept on a leash at all times).
There are enough things to do at Fort Pulaski National Monument to keep you busy an entire day. Whether learning about history by exploring an impressive fort, chasing wildlife with a camera, or kayaking around the marshes, you’ll spend a fun day on the island.
Fort Pulaski National Monument
U.S. 80, Savannah; 1.912 786.5787; Open year-round: 9AM-5PM (except for New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas Day). Seasonal hours may vary.
Fee: US$10 per person (no cash accepted) Your ticket is valid for seven consecutive days. Check their calendar for the Fee-Free Days
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