Ottawa isn’t known for its architecture. Although it has a rich cultural life, the city doesn’t have the coolest buildings, or the tallest, or the most unique.
Of course, there are some notable exceptions that have been preserved to narrate the history of the city. But in general, you could say it’s rather…bland.
But, there’s a gem that stands out like a macadamia nut in a bowl of peanuts.
The Parliament Hill buildings, housing the seat of the federal government, are among the best examples of great architecture in Canada, in the Gothic Revival style.
Note: the grounds around Parliament Hill are currently closed due to major renovations.
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Visit the Parliament Buildings
You’ll see three monumental buildings around the front lawn: the Centre Block, the East Block, and the West Block.
The Centre Block
In 1857 they asked Queen Victoria to select the capital of the newly formed Province of Canada. Right before saying Happy New Year!, she decided that Ottawa, sitting on a hill and away from the southern border, was the perfect location.
By 1867 the Dominion Of Canada was holding its first Parliament session inside the new building -designed by Thomas Fuller and Chilion Jones-, made of local sandstone (from Nepean), red sandstone (from New York), and gray Ohio freestone.
The construction of Parliament Hill was officially completed in 1876.
But nothing remains of the original building except the stones. Sadly, tragedy hit in 1916 when a fire burnt the Centre Block and the Victoria Tower Bell to the ground.
A reconstruction followed -using the same Nepean sandstone- to build a safer, larger, taller Beaux-Arts Gothic Revival building, with a new and higher bell tower: what we know today as The Peace Tower.
The 92-metre high freestanding structure, richly ornamented and crowned with four turrets and gargoyles, rises majestically above the massive Centre Block, honouring fallen Canadian soldiers for their sacrifice. It houses a Memorial Chamber, a clock, an observation deck, a flag that is changed every workday -weather permitting- and a 53-bell carillon (an organ-like instrument with levers and pedals connected to the bells).
Behind the Centre Block and connected to it via a corridor is the Library of Parliament, which miraculously survived the 1916 fire. Give a round of applause for fire doors and diligent clerks.
To me, the Library is the most stunning building in Ottawa. Heck, in all of Ontario.
Once you see its circle upon circle shape you’ll get why it’s called “The Wedding Cake”. The octagon is surrounded by flying buttresses connecting 16 turrets, with a massive lantern dome crowning it all. With pinnacles and iron cresting everywhere. The interiors are even more impressive, but can’t be accessed for several years due to the Centre Block ongoing renovation. Bummer.
The East and West Block
Two other buildings -High Victorian Gothic Revival style- overlook the front lawn.
To your left is the West Block. A newly restored building where the House of Commons holds its sessions. It’s the oldest original structure in the complex, with a new glass ceiling covering the central courtyard.
To your right is the East Block. It houses the offices of the Senators and their staff, and it’s the best preserved building in the parliament. In the mid-’60s a group proposed to replace it with a glass and metal structure, but advocates with much more artistic sense saved it and it’s now protected as a Classified Federal Heritage Building.
The Nepean limestone around doors and windows create a beautiful polychromy that you won’t see in the Central Block.
Admire the elements of the Gothic Revival style
Parliament Hill is an ode to the Gothic style.
Everything draws your eyes upward, everything is “pointy”. The spires, the pointed arches, the iron finials, the lancet windows, all work together in an attempt to elevate your soul to new heights.
All set against the textures and shades of the stone walls, crowned by the green patina of the old copper roofs.
Look carefully and you’ll discover fantastic figures. The gargoyles and the grotesques lurk among the nature-inspired reliefs, crawl on the arches, ready to take off from the corners of the buildings. Their purpose? To keep evil forces at bay.
Artists skillfully carved in stone alien-like creatures, part dragon, part bat, part lion, semi-fish, bird-like, sort of reptile, human-ish, and everything in between. What were they drinking?
I have no idea. But I want some of that.
Take a guided tour of Parliament Hill buildings
Can you go inside Parliament Hill?
Yes, you can. It’s possible to explore the parliament buildings’ interiors, but you must join a free guided tour.
Although the Centre Block is closed for renovations, you can still visit the East Block, the West Block (House of Commons), and the Senate (located on Rideau St, outside The Hill).
It’s easy to find same-day tickets during the slow season. During the high season (late Spring to early Fall), it’s better to book your free tickets online. There are a few same-day tickets available at the Visitor Centre but they go faster than mimosas at a Sunday brunch.
Expect airport-like security (hint: arrive early) and bag restrictions (maximum 14”x12”x7.5”- one per person). No lockers or bag checks are available.
Reserve your tickets online or call 1.613.996.0896.
111 Wellington St., Ottawa
FREE admission
Beyond the beautiful buildings, you’ll find many monuments and sculptures on the large grounds of Parliament Hill, where peaceful protests and demonstrations take place. Paired with a busy schedule of year-round outdoor events, it’s a must-visit site in Ottawa.
Have you been to Parliament Hill? I can’t wait till the renovations are over to see everything in a new light.
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