Ek Balam: The Unique Mayan Ruins in Yucatán, Mexico

Right smack in the middle of a dense jungle the pyramids and temples of the mid-size Mayan ruins of Ek Balam soar above the canopy trees.

The lost city of the Black Jaguar (or Star Jaguar, as some Mayans call it), which was at the top of its game around the late Classic period (600 A.D.-900 A.D.), is more than meets the eye. What you see is not even a quarter of the 12-square-kilometre metropolis hidden under the surrounding mounds and trees, like a giant ready to wake up from a slumber.

Ek Balam is only 30 minutes north of Valladolid in norhteast Yucatán. It’s a great option if you want to visit an archeological site on a day trip from Cancún or Playa del Carmen, but you don’t want to deal with the usual crowds at Chichen Itzá.

Not only that, but you’ll also find some features that aren’t common in this region and that make this site unique.

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This is why you should plan a trip to the Mayan ruins of Ek Balam.

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All the Roads Lead to Ek’ Balam

After you walk past the stores selling handicrafts you’ll be on a shaded path, the same Sak Be (meaning “white roads” because they were white) Mayans used centuries ago to get here from other cities.

It will lead you to a raised stand-alone arched entrance with four openings, as in four cardinal points (Mayans are all about the cosmos).

Around the entrance, you’ll notice something not that common in Yucatan’s ruins: walls.

These ones are quite thick in some sections (up to three metres), but they look quite different now as they used to be covered in stucco and paint.

Since they’re rather low (1.5 metres) archeologists think their function was more about the “Do not trespass” sign rather than an attempt to build a fortress, as in Tulum.

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Is Ek Balam Worth Visiting?

My answer is yes, based on my opinion that the ruins are beautiful (scroll down to see the pictures), that it’s one of the few pyramids you can still climb (the view is awesome up there), and that there are unique elements that you won’t see anywhere else (keep reading to find out more). And, it’s less crowded than other sites.

However, some things may make you say No way, Mayra! It’s not! For example, there was a recent price increase which brought the entrance fee to MXN$556 for Ek Balam. The fee for Chichen Itzá is MXN$643, but it’s a much larger site (but way more crowded) than Ek Balam. So for 87 pesos more, you get to see much more.

In addition to this, there is now a MXN$100 parking fee.

Given that the best way to visit Ek Balam on your own is by car, this brings the total fee to MXN$656.

So at the end it boils down to how much you love archaeological sites (even though Ek Balam is small I think it’s fantastic) and if you’re looking to make the most of your travel budget.

Note: you may find some people trying to stop you on the road to the site to sell you (overpriced) tickets to cenotes, attractions, etc.. Ignore them.

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Can You Still Climb Ek Balam?

Yes, Ek Balam is one of the few sites where you can still climb the main pyramid (The Acropolis) and the main palace (The Oval Palace).

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Tours to Ek Balam

If you want to visit this wonderful site and you prefer to have everything arranged for you check out these tours that combine Ek Balam with other destinations:

RIA LAGARTOS AND EK BALAM TOUR: this tour departs from Valladolid and combines a guided visit to Ek Balam (admission not included) with a boat ride at the Ría Lagartos Nature Reserve and a stop at Las Coloradas. It offers a little bit of everything. If someone in your group isn’t interested in seeing the ruins, they can go for a dip in the nearby X’Canché cenote instead. Maximum 10 travellers and lunch is included.
Book this tour, which has nearly 110 5-star reviews.

VIP CHICHEN ITZA AND EK BALAM PRIVATE TOUR: pick-up points for this tour include the most popular locations along the Riviera Maya (Puerto Morelos, Playa del Carmen, Tulum, etc.) from where you’ll go to Chichen Itzá, Ek Balam, then an open cenote, and finish with lunch in Valladolid. Lunch and all admissions are included.
Book this tour, which has 30, 100% 5-star reviews.

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The Oval Palace

The first big structure that you’ll see on the right is the Oval Palace, showing another peculiarity of this site. Like the Pyramid of the Magician in Uxmal, this is a rare example of a Mayan building with a rounded base.

From the top (yes, you can still climb Ek Balam) you’ll get an aerial view of the twin temples, the agora, and the entrance terrace.

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The Twins (Structure 17)

These two identical pyramids are located west of the South Plaza and were built on top of two previous structures, a common practice for Maya architects.

Don’t search for stone carvings like the ones in Uxmal, you’ll only find a few here and there. 

The Ek Balamers (I just made up that word) were not into that. They were more into using stucco and ground limestone to model masks and figures they would decorate with paint, as confirmed by the discovery of two decorative stucco masks.

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The Ball Court

As in every important Mayan site, you’ll find a ball court where players, covered in protective pads, would hit a rubber ball with their hips, knees, and head in an attempt to throw it into a small ring protruding from the wall of the slanted platform.

The ball game wasn’t a Let’s grab some beers and have fun type of event. There was a whole cosmic meaning about it and they would play to honour the gods.

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The Acropolis

At the north end, you’ll see the acropolis, a tall and steep pyramid where lies the most precious jewel of the treasure that makes Ek’ Balam a unique Mayan archeological site.

As you climb the uneven, at times slippery steps, you’ll want to stop to see the reconstructed sculptures and masks under the thatched roofs.

Near the top, on the left side, you’ll find The Throne, a temple dedicated to king Ukit Kan Le’k Tok. Under his ruling during the 8th century, the city accomplished many cultural and technical developments. His name is on the glyphs you can see on site.

The most impressive feature is the entrance to his tomb. The Jaguar altar made in stucco resembles a monster-like open jaw with huge teeth, framed with fantastic masks and flanked by sculptures of Mayan warriors with wings and all in the upper section.

As it’s common in Mayan tombs of very important people, they also found an impressive offering inside: jewelry, pottery, shells, and over 7,000 objects to accompany him on his journey in the afterlife.

Walk to the end of the platform to take a peek at the chultun below, built to collect rainwater in a huge underground pitcher-like container properly treated to store the precious liquid and prevent leaking.

Reach the top of the pyramid and you’ll be rewarded for your bravery and efforts with one of the best views of Yucatan’s jungle. This is one of the few site where you can still climb to the top.

Not the best place to be if you’re terrified of heights, though.

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Ek’ Balam is in the middle of a dense jungle. While it’s easy to find shade under the many trees when you’re up in the monuments you’ll need sunscreen, a hat, water, and insect repellent.

The best time to visit is early in the morning: less heat and fewer people. Sundays are busier as it’s free for nationals.

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Why Was Ek Balam Abandoned?

Following the fashion of other Mayan sites, determined to remain in a cloud of mystery,  the answer is that no one knows for sure. Rumour has it that people started leaving after constant attacks from other cities.

The threat of a mega invasion made people scream This is the end!, and that was it for Ek Balam. 

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Take a Plunge at Cenote X’ Canché

Fight the heat of Yucatan by taking a refreshing plunge in cenote X’ Canché. You’ll need to buy a separate ticket to enter (MXN$170) and walk around 20 minutes to the site. You don’t need to buy a ticket to the ruins if you’re only visiting the cenote.

There are changing rooms and places to eat on site. You can also do rappel and zipline.

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How to Get to Ek Balam

I’m a big fan of taking public transit, but in this case, my recommendation is to rent a car and explore the surroundings at your own pace.

Check the best rates in the Yucatan Peninsula with Discover Cars.

You can also take a colectivo (shared taxi) from Valladolid, but you have to wait until it fills up. Another option is to book a tour to Ek Balam.

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Ek Balam gives you the chance to see unusual features that you’ll find only in a handful of other Mayan ruins and spectacular decorations made in stucco that are unique to this site.

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Ek’ Balam

From Valladolid take Highway 295 heading north until you find Carretera Ek-Balaam on your right (past the town of Temozón).; Open every day: 8AM-5PM (last admission is at 4PM). General admission: MXN$ 531

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